tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-965994141460212722024-03-08T04:27:30.702-08:00Liberation IIHallberg-Rassy 46Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-26168121593656596833011-10-04T18:16:00.000-07:002015-01-20T12:02:39.167-08:00Backstory<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A7O5jLZtxFQ/ToYIb66sG1I/AAAAAAAAAHI/YyDBh9Pu96E/s1600/Liberation+II.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A7O5jLZtxFQ/ToYIb66sG1I/AAAAAAAAAHI/YyDBh9Pu96E/s640/Liberation+II.jpg" height="466" width="640" /></a></div>
<b>OCT. 4, 2011</b><br />
The recently retired <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ironman_Triathlon" target="_blank">IronMan</a>, my buddy for 40-some years, toyed with the idea of flying planes as an adventurous means of exploring the world but ultimately decided on a more down-to-earth approach.<br />
Steve (Cap'n Casey) picked up this beautiful HR-46, the <i>Liberation II</i>, in Seattle and sailed her down to San Francisco, a temporary berth while he assembles his crew.<br />
Next week I'm flying out to help sail her down to San Diego where we will enter the <a href="http://www.baja-haha.com/HowTo.html" target="_blank">Baja Ha-Ha</a>, a lackadaisical two-week rally from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas.<br />
On that second passage, the Baja Ha-Ha, we will enjoy the company and expertise of Cap'n Chip - a tried 'n true sailor having roamed the Bahamas on his S/V<i> <a href="http://lowcountrycruising.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Tranquility</a></i> - and Mike, an acquaintance of Steve.<br />
From Cabo she'll head to and through "The Canal" and eventually to her home port in Saint Croix. <br />
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<a href="http://liberation2.blogspot.com/2011/10/depart-san-diego.html" target="_blank"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">10/24/11 San Diego to Bahia Santa Maria</span></b></a><br />
<a href="http://liberation2.blogspot.com/2011/11/bahia-santa-maria-toward-cabo-san-lucas.html" target="_blank"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">11/02/11 Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas</span></b></a><br />
<a href="http://liberation2.blogspot.com/2011/11/parallel-to-chilapa-toward-pv.html" target="_blank"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">11/06/11 Cabo to Nuevo Vallarta</span></b></a><br />
<a href="http://liberation2.blogspot.com/2012/02/normal-0-false-false-false-en-us-x-none.html" target="_blank"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">01/28/12 Vallarta to Huatulco</span></b></a><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://liberation2.blogspot.com/2012/05/huatulco-and-points-south.html" target="_blank">04/29/12 Huatulco to Panama</a></span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://liberation2.blogspot.com/2012/10/colon-panama-to.html" target="_blank">10/30/12 Panama to Guatemala</a> </span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://liberation2.blogspot.com/2013/03/fronteras-guatemala-to.html" target="_blank">03/03/13 Guatemala to St. Croix</a> </span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> </span></b>Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-55442297791025707342013-03-03T14:40:00.000-08:002015-11-08T07:11:36.327-08:00Fronteras, Guatemala to...St. CroixA capsule of our last leg, from Panama to here in Rio Dulce, produced by Bryan is <a href="http://youtu.be/MrhfNSNuFj0" target="_blank">here on youtube</a>.<br />
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<b>The Final Leg:</b></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Sun., Mar. 3, '13</b><br /> Up at four for the early taxi to Charleston Airport. Quick flight to Miami and a nice, tight connection for the flight to Guatemala City - too tight, in fact, to get my duty free stuff on board. "But I'm headed to the gate right now". "No, señor, you can't carry it". "Okay, then walk with me". "No, we are sorry, we can't". Now, where the hell am I going to get Black Bush for the voyage, let alone for 27 bucks?<br /> As the last person to board, I nonchalantly slid into one of the many open first class seats. The plug door was closed and the pilot was giving final instructions to the attendants. Thought I had it made, but no..."Sir, can I see your boarding pass?" "Oh (with innocent smile), isn't this 27D?" "Nice try, sir". Feeling like I was being sent to the principal's office, I did the perp walk only to find someone in my assigned seat. Rather than bother them I took a nice, roomy exit seat and enjoyed the flight.<br /> Steve and son Grant were due a half hour after me but they were already there when I arrived. No bag-checking by customs (?) and we were out hailing a cab in minutes.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">Steve is sick as a dog so once we were checked into <a href="http://www.marianaspetithotel.com/" target="_blank">Mariana's quaint "Petit Hotel"</a> we put him to bed with an antibiotic and a shot of whisky. Grant and I and a Canadian fellow we ran into hopped a cab to snoop around town for a few hours, had some good Italian food and came back to Mariana's to crash.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y_38X-PAGRs/UUClhMGvczI/AAAAAAAAB7E/963SP5-rOOw/s1600/201303-04+17+guat+city.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y_38X-PAGRs/UUClhMGvczI/AAAAAAAAB7E/963SP5-rOOw/s640/201303-04+17+guat+city.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My room was at the very top of Mariana's...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4mjPXILmGWo/UUClWdJeiJI/AAAAAAAAB68/dBn1AZpA1z8/s1600/201303-04+12+guat+city.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4mjPXILmGWo/UUClWdJeiJI/AAAAAAAAB68/dBn1AZpA1z8/s640/201303-04+12+guat+city.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...so I had the view.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">volcano</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Mon., Mar. 4</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
Brrr, it's freezing here. Mid-40s, busted window and no extra blanket so I didn't sleep very well. Now I'm up before 5:00 with nothing to do, hoping the folks will make coffee soon.<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Today, if Steve's up to it, we'll take a bus down to <a href="http://www.monkeybaymarina.com/" target="_blank">Monkey Bay Marina</a> on the Rio Dulce where the boat awaits.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Yep, after a nice big breakfast of fruit & juice, eggs & potatoes, beans & bread we packed up and took a cab to the bus station. Just after 10:00 we're bouncing through the narrow streets of Guatemala City. This bus is big and several times we were just inches from other vehicles and buildings. It reminded me of a Panamax ship squeezing through the canal with barely any clearance.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kAZvNspgfqw/UUClkmZQrII/AAAAAAAAB7M/qCbHHjCA5Nk/s1600/201303-04+20+bus+to+Rio+Dulce.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kAZvNspgfqw/UUClkmZQrII/AAAAAAAAB7M/qCbHHjCA5Nk/s640/201303-04+20+bus+to+Rio+Dulce.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> After a few hours climbing through the Sierra de las Minas, little brother of Sierra Madre, it was downhill from there. We took a brief rest break east of Gualan...</span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off the bus, stretching our legs en route to Rio Dulce</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> ...then watched the flora turn more and more lush as we descended towards the water. Arrived in Rio Dulce/Fronteras around 4:00, made the short walk to Bruno's Marina and called Jen to come collect us.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W2A6CtOo9VI/UZC1Dpy6DtI/AAAAAAAACSc/qA9Lg8ZJBbA/s1600/jake+brake+saloon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W2A6CtOo9VI/UZC1Dpy6DtI/AAAAAAAACSc/qA9Lg8ZJBbA/s400/jake+brake+saloon.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The aptly-named bar at Bruno's - a stone's throw from the foot of the Rio Dulce Bridge</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Steve took the opportunity to find a bus schedule to Livingston where we hope he can arrange a visitor visa extension. Funny thing about Livingston - no buses go there. Why? There is no road to there. Anything and everything - food, building supplies, even the vehicles - arrives by boat.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Scf4W4ouc-k/UUHCmcaGjXI/AAAAAAAACAY/lh7HLW-QXHw/s1600/map-guatemala+physical2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="458" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Scf4W4ouc-k/UUHCmcaGjXI/AAAAAAAACAY/lh7HLW-QXHw/s640/map-guatemala+physical2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In our slip at Monkey Bay</td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lBfvIgutkuI/UUCl6QngMmI/AAAAAAAAB7c/-qKOX90fxN4/s1600/201303-05+06+Lady+Lib+at+Monkey+Bay.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lBfvIgutkuI/UUCl6QngMmI/AAAAAAAAB7c/-qKOX90fxN4/s640/201303-05+06+Lady+Lib+at+Monkey+Bay.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Ah, so good to see the handsome Lady Lib, with her new blue bimini and freshly covered cockpit cushions - white with blue piping, ooh la la! The interior and exterior had been thoroughly cleaned, windows inside and out too, and the fiberglass was waxed and shone pearly white. When I cracked open the companionway I expected the usual moldy, stale smell. But, no, she had been aired out. How nice to come back to this instead of mildew and facing days of work just to make her habitable.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Snacks, a beer and we're out for the night.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><b>Tue., Mar. 5</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Up before the sun to walk the docks and play with Lupe and Spice, the dock dogs.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U26nmgpyhC8/UUCpZDzxWBI/AAAAAAAAB-8/EDoQ4DllmzI/s1600/201303-10+36+Spice+%2526+Lupe.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U26nmgpyhC8/UUCpZDzxWBI/AAAAAAAAB-8/EDoQ4DllmzI/s640/201303-10+36+Spice+%2526+Lupe.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> I can hear a troupe of Howler Monkeys swing past in the forest canopy; can't see them but I can follow them by the waves of howls. Lots of exotic bird calls, too.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> After sunrise long pangas full of children sped by on their way in to school; longer ones headed out to fish; still longer and low ones, like skinny barges, passed carrying what looked like sand.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H6jXQ3VYjtc/UUEDIagm3DI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Baxfvic8p1A/s1600/201303-13+17+passing+panga.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H6jXQ3VYjtc/UUEDIagm3DI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Baxfvic8p1A/s400/201303-13+17+passing+panga.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Now the sun is up and this is more like it: pushing 90 degrees and the teak deck is too hot for bare feet. Frequent hosing down to lower my body temperature. This is the Caribbean weather I remember and missed.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> Grant and I got the dinghy down and inflated then, with Steve, <span style="font-family: inherit;">retrieve</span>d the heavy outboard from the workshop. It took the three of us, and we could have used another hand, to lower it into place without the pulley. Steve and Grant dinghied into town for some provisioning and to snoop around for a way to Livingston. I stayed behind to organize the boat and my familiar li'l berth.</span></span></span></span></div>
<b>Wed., Mar. 6</b><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boarding the water-bus</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Just after morning coffee the daily water-bus picked up the Caseys for the 90-minute trip down the Dulce to Livingston - to try to finagle a visa extension. Our original three-month visitor's visa expires today and there is a $500 fine if caught over-staying, so I hope they meet with success.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bu4R8ih9SSA/UUCm30u3GdI/AAAAAAAAB8c/-AVjC3HVo4A/s1600/201303-06+16+Steve+%2526+Grant+at+Livingston.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bu4R8ih9SSA/UUCm30u3GdI/AAAAAAAAB8c/-AVjC3HVo4A/s640/201303-06+16+Steve+%2526+Grant+at+Livingston.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish jerky(?) in Livingston</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Meanwhile I hitched a ride with some friendly slip neighbors up the river to <a href="http://dongatoriodulce.com/chiqus.html" target="_blank">Tienda Reed</a> for provisions.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Good news - Raoul, the Customs and Immigration guy in Livingston, gave us a two-week freebie to get the boat work done. There’s a little breathing room now, but can we get it done in time?</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Thu., Mar. 7</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Más nada.</span></span></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KL0Zsq_b9T0/UUCnVz2D3_I/AAAAAAAAB80/789iy4tDM64/s1600/201303-07+03+grant+%2526+lupe.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KL0Zsq_b9T0/UUCnVz2D3_I/AAAAAAAAB80/789iy4tDM64/s640/201303-07+03+grant+%2526+lupe.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grant and Lupe</td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4nJHvHNTsM/UUCnD91a_2I/AAAAAAAAB8s/-RuMVnSyTzM/s1600/201303-06+24+dinghy+to+Fronteras.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l4nJHvHNTsM/UUCnD91a_2I/AAAAAAAAB8s/-RuMVnSyTzM/s640/201303-06+24+dinghy+to+Fronteras.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GvCNBCLsBRE/UUCnDm8hiAI/AAAAAAAAB8k/zDd8QOz96YI/s1600/201303-06+28+cleaning+mojarra-Bruno%2527s.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GvCNBCLsBRE/UUCnDm8hiAI/AAAAAAAAB8k/zDd8QOz96YI/s640/201303-06+28+cleaning+mojarra-Bruno%2527s.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cleaning Mojarra, probably for ceviche</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Fri., Mar. 8</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dg-J4ajMAUs/UYQhj76Bk2I/AAAAAAAACPM/goxEhrtQPmI/s1600/201303-18+13+ram+marina-drain.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dg-J4ajMAUs/UYQhj76Bk2I/AAAAAAAACPM/goxEhrtQPmI/s640/201303-18+13+ram+marina-drain.JPG" width="124" /></a><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> <a href="http://www.rammarina.com/rammarina.cgi?page=index" target="_blank">Ram Marina</a> has a simple drainage system for their paved painting area: a gulley 150 yards long, 8 inches deep and exactly the width of a man’s shoe, size medium. On our first visit, while gawking at all the big boats on stilts, I stepped straight in. Straight, fortunately, because it’s the perfect device to break not an ankle, but the bones above it, should one topple over putting the entire body weight on those small bones against a crisp concrete edge. It cements, so to speak, the foot in the most ideally cruel position...I was lucky and only ripped a bit of skin.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Looking for lodging while on the hard, we found a few nasty little rooms and I thought to myself, “Gawd, do I really wanna spend a week in these dirty, flea-bitten digs? We could catch polio or something. Where's the Hilton?" </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> We stumbled on a really good traditional almuerzo at Sol y Luna, barely recognizable as a restaurant.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RrjroAAhAZI/UUCnoiMuDfI/AAAAAAAAB9U/WFj52_cHVaw/s1600/201303-08+09+almuerzo-sol+y+luna+rest.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RrjroAAhAZI/UUCnoiMuDfI/AAAAAAAAB9U/WFj52_cHVaw/s640/201303-08+09+almuerzo-sol+y+luna+rest.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z_z9mLDTsRk/UUCnmBvWNuI/AAAAAAAAB9M/aobKn4g2uYg/s1600/201303-08+14+sol+y+luna+puppy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z_z9mLDTsRk/UUCnmBvWNuI/AAAAAAAAB9M/aobKn4g2uYg/s640/201303-08+14+sol+y+luna+puppy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The guy with the bike had just arrived - from L.A.!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Back aboard, we started what we thought would be a straight-forward and productive project: washing the curtains. Not so: first off, there are hundreds of plastic clips to disconnect, many of which fell off in the washer. Once dry, we had to reattach them to the curtains then clip the curtains onto the hundreds of corresponding cars above and below the port holes. At worst, we thought, this would be a mindless, stoner type of exercise, but no...each curtain is a different length and height and further, the distance between car tracks is not constant; they're farther apart on one end than on the other and, stupidly, we didn't mark which curtain went where. Over the course of three days we finally got it sort of right.</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bGbWohHsXuk/UUCnZh_m7WI/AAAAAAAAB88/EClMUFD2JnI/s1600/201303-08+01+grant+curtains.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bGbWohHsXuk/UUCnZh_m7WI/AAAAAAAAB88/EClMUFD2JnI/s640/201303-08+01+grant+curtains.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Sat., Mar. 9</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Haul-out day. We got up early enough to make the ten minute motor to Ram Marina by 0730. Steve and I drove Lib and Grant followed in the dinghy. No one had told us to come in stern-first, but there was just enough room in the entry channel for the line handlers to spin her around.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fnwf0gTfIzE/UUCn4Ks3RRI/AAAAAAAAB9k/FINjK28dYsM/s1600/201303-09+08+Ram+Marina+haulout.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="444" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fnwf0gTfIzE/UUCn4Ks3RRI/AAAAAAAAB9k/FINjK28dYsM/s640/201303-09+08+Ram+Marina+haulout.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> It took a bit of free-diving to fine tune the placement of the cradles and up she goes. We walked along with the boat on the lift to the location in the yard where they do the sandblasting...</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4czydLt1S58/UUCoHoF4BiI/AAAAAAAAB9s/hW4cGxDk4lI/s1600/201303-09+16+Ram+Marina+haulout.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4czydLt1S58/UUCoHoF4BiI/AAAAAAAAB9s/hW4cGxDk4lI/s640/201303-09+16+Ram+Marina+haulout.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zzbYicAerZ4/UUCn1vQalqI/AAAAAAAAB9c/3TXTSbechG0/s1600/201303-09+20+Ram+Marina+haulout.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zzbYicAerZ4/UUCn1vQalqI/AAAAAAAAB9c/3TXTSbechG0/s640/201303-09+20+Ram+Marina+haulout.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> ...it's in a separate area and the sand and paint just blow in the wind. They're building a huge new hangar to contain all the waste product from sandblasting.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WnqUvy4m1nw/UaXRdq9-LTI/AAAAAAAACU8/aD56CFEoExg/s1600/201303-14+03+new+hangar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WnqUvy4m1nw/UaXRdq9-LTI/AAAAAAAACU8/aD56CFEoExg/s320/201303-14+03+new+hangar.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><Steve:</span></span><i> "</i></span><i><span style="font-family: "arialmt" , "sans-serif";">The
cost breakdown for all this is $450 for haul-out, $800 for total labor,
$150/gallon for primer (4 gal of Interlux 2000e) and $340/gallon for
anti-fouling (6 gal of Pettit Trinidad Pro). Will also have to buy a new
battery for the house 12 volt system and pay an electrician to get the damn
wind generator going...so will be a very expensive month for Lib II">.</span></i></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> We spent an hour or so taping plastic sheets around the cockpit to minimize the inevitable sand and paint particles that’ll be raining down on every surface.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-rUSyPG68w/UUCoIvMr6PI/AAAAAAAAB90/KQTN6k4orCs/s1600/201303-09+48+making+sandblast+shield.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-rUSyPG68w/UUCoIvMr6PI/AAAAAAAAB90/KQTN6k4orCs/s640/201303-09+48+making+sandblast+shield.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Over to Bruno’s, Grant and I befriended Angela, a street merchant, and bought meself a shirt & necklace and him some bracelets.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s6ycyJzn9VQ/UUpnNtkmtEI/AAAAAAAACGs/tPeY3U-neVY/s1600/201303-18+16+angela%252C+john.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s6ycyJzn9VQ/UUpnNtkmtEI/AAAAAAAACGs/tPeY3U-neVY/s640/201303-18+16+angela%252C+john.JPG" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angela, our favorite street merchant</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4KcEEg2Nhg/UUCobi7Zc0I/AAAAAAAAB-E/KeX691s3gMQ/s1600/201303-10+06+rec+area+-+Steve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4KcEEg2Nhg/UUCobi7Zc0I/AAAAAAAAB-E/KeX691s3gMQ/s640/201303-10+06+rec+area+-+Steve.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steve got the too-small-for-me shirt</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Our good luck continues! Not at all sold on the crappy rooms in Fronteras we’d seen, Steve, in one of his rare moments of genius, thought we might camp in the rec. area which has hammocks and several soft couches. To this Jen agreed. Wee-hoo! But then it got better, way better: manager Jen spoke with the marina's owner and scored us a charming guest cabin on the premises for $15 per night. Oh yeah, baby, oh yeah.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PXb8Go0Rl_o/UUCo5aZY98I/AAAAAAAAB-c/jg7YzedNZGo/s1600/201303-10+00+monkey+bay+cabin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PXb8Go0Rl_o/UUCo5aZY98I/AAAAAAAAB-c/jg7YzedNZGo/s640/201303-10+00+monkey+bay+cabin.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XrisFOq7WQY/UUCoRbZirNI/AAAAAAAAB98/MiI-JKZsoMc/s1600/201303-09+54+cabin+temp+residence.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XrisFOq7WQY/UUCoRbZirNI/AAAAAAAAB98/MiI-JKZsoMc/s640/201303-09+54+cabin+temp+residence.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RnJ815DkDXA/UUHNESHf98I/AAAAAAAACA0/OlatVfjpiY0/s1600/201303-10+03+monkey+bay+cabin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RnJ815DkDXA/UUHNESHf98I/AAAAAAAACA0/OlatVfjpiY0/s640/201303-10+03+monkey+bay+cabin.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Sun., Mar. 10</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> A trip over to the Lib showed some sandblasting had been done the previous afternoon. Progress?</span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zYfgLlw_WIs/UUColwmdSaI/AAAAAAAAB-M/bda3X20xZYQ/s1600/201303-10+07+john+%2526+grant+work+on+boat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="380" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zYfgLlw_WIs/UUColwmdSaI/AAAAAAAAB-M/bda3X20xZYQ/s640/201303-10+07+john+%2526+grant+work+on+boat.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John and Grant work on the bow thruster</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> A tip from our German slip-neighbors led us to <a href="http://www.casa-perico.com/" target="_blank"><i>Casa Perico</i></a> (House of Parakeets) for lunch. It’s directly across the Dulce from Monkey Bay and up a narrow, winding, somewhat spooky rivulet.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LXMJTjksYms/UUCqI64wyvI/AAAAAAAAB_k/JK2V9ZRK0N4/s1600/201303-10+26+Casa+Perico.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LXMJTjksYms/UUCqI64wyvI/AAAAAAAAB_k/JK2V9ZRK0N4/s640/201303-10+26+Casa+Perico.JPG" width="640" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ki4byWOnt4k/UUCouP1GmGI/AAAAAAAAB-U/nSh6UVGYbAE/s1600/201303-10+17+Casa+Perico.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ki4byWOnt4k/UUCouP1GmGI/AAAAAAAAB-U/nSh6UVGYbAE/s640/201303-10+17+Casa+Perico.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-61xpzoG4d8w/UUCo_GDypAI/AAAAAAAAB-k/szubgTmnnRk/s1600/201303-10+23+Casa+Perico.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="458" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-61xpzoG4d8w/UUCo_GDypAI/AAAAAAAAB-k/szubgTmnnRk/s640/201303-10+23+Casa+Perico.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MaA2KhEMMOI/UUCpYK1-A0I/AAAAAAAAB-0/lE88F17G4Ts/s1600/201303-10+28+Casa+Perico.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MaA2KhEMMOI/UUCpYK1-A0I/AAAAAAAAB-0/lE88F17G4Ts/s640/201303-10+28+Casa+Perico.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> After lunch we threw some darts, had a cocktail then Steve dropped Grant and me off at Monkey Bay and dinghied on down to Ram Marina to check on and supervise the blasted blasting project; you really do need to be there to crack the whip. Meanwhile Grant and I took our daily dip off Monkey Bay’s dock, knocked down and carved what we learned to be an unripe coconut, bounced a bit on the backyard trampoline until I thought I might hurt myself and be abandoned as useless by the captain so we finally resorted to a safe game of double sol. Nap-time for Johnny in the breezy rec. area.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><i><grant sez> playing double sol with john til the flies come</i></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><i> spider monkeys talking every morning</i></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> In the evening, reputed to have killer pizzas, we dinghied into town to eat at Sundog.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ro0Bug_9KIo/UUCplTkFoFI/AAAAAAAAB_E/Vdpc7vjLrvY/s1600/201303-10+46+Sundog+pizza+-+Grant.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ro0Bug_9KIo/UUCplTkFoFI/AAAAAAAAB_E/Vdpc7vjLrvY/s640/201303-10+46+Sundog+pizza+-+Grant.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Yeah, it was okay.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Mon., Mar 11</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Last night I finally gave in to employing the mosquito screen canopy over my bed. Despite having no lights on, they come and despite having window screens, somehow the li’l bastards find a way in...perhaps through the thatched roof.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-syqpd4ZAQec/UUEDOBk77eI/AAAAAAAACAE/y32d-FlEI3M/s1600/201303-13+11+cabin+mosquito+net.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-syqpd4ZAQec/UUEDOBk77eI/AAAAAAAACAE/y32d-FlEI3M/s640/201303-13+11+cabin+mosquito+net.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Skeeters be damned, I’m falling in love with this place; getting to know the children of the workers who live on the grounds, sharing food with and becoming best buddies with Spice and Lupe, the dock-dogs.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jDJ9xLR0Q7M/UUEC_KCIlKI/AAAAAAAAB_0/zshhQ_a4M0k/s1600/201303-13+09+thomas+%2526+dad+raking.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jDJ9xLR0Q7M/UUEC_KCIlKI/AAAAAAAAB_0/zshhQ_a4M0k/s640/201303-13+09+thomas+%2526+dad+raking.JPG" width="516" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3-year old Thomas helps his Dad with the raking</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G4hgFvgyKXM/UUTS-Hk_jgI/AAAAAAAACCc/ymgspsUyPn4/s1600/201303-14+10+thomas+%2526+abby.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="323" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G4hgFvgyKXM/UUTS-Hk_jgI/AAAAAAAACCc/ymgspsUyPn4/s400/201303-14+10+thomas+%2526+abby.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thomas & Abby<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Anything you really need, besides a grocery and restaurant, is here.</span></span></span></span><br />
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Flora on the grounds:</div>
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<a href="http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w620/John_Tasha/201303monkeybayflora_zps20db768c.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w620/John_Tasha/201303monkeybayflora_zps20db768c.gif" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> I’ve gotten into the habit, when not at the boat or elsewhere, of taking a siesta on a<i></i> soft couch in the rec. area. The 50' x 50' structure is on pilings, resting a few feet above the Rio Dulce's water. It has a very high thatched roof and no walls so nothing stops the cooling wind from blowing clear through. With rare human noise it makes for perfect relaxation. More than once I’ve woken not knowing where I was but not at all alarmed.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> The recreation area:</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2VNWFcYUioM/UUEDSIzZSrI/AAAAAAAACAM/PdFYpsFkUKI/s1600/201303-13+06+rec+area.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2VNWFcYUioM/UUEDSIzZSrI/AAAAAAAACAM/PdFYpsFkUKI/s640/201303-13+06+rec+area.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hLkqrHnQIo0/UUHNOoYghtI/AAAAAAAACA8/ZSJloT_ATBQ/s1600/201303-05+11+monkey+bay+rec+area.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hLkqrHnQIo0/UUHNOoYghtI/AAAAAAAACA8/ZSJloT_ATBQ/s640/201303-05+11+monkey+bay+rec+area.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qv2elBWSlJk/UUHNCQtJ0PI/AAAAAAAACAs/t4RH2X7mI5s/s1600/201303-05+08+monkey+bay+rec+area.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qv2elBWSlJk/UUHNCQtJ0PI/AAAAAAAACAs/t4RH2X7mI5s/s640/201303-05+08+monkey+bay+rec+area.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-onnRaa8OPqE/UUNdg6es0NI/AAAAAAAACCM/MMr91zDoAiY/s1600/201303-15+02+rec+area.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-onnRaa8OPqE/UUNdg6es0NI/AAAAAAAACCM/MMr91zDoAiY/s640/201303-15+02+rec+area.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> In the afternoon we took another ride over to Ram Marina to discover yet more slow sandblasting progress. Some delay is to be expected since, after all, we are in Central America, but the three to four day estimate could easily double. Aargh, there’s not much we can do here so over to Bruno’s we go. Steve and Grant went for Quetzales cambio while I discussed possibly fabricating a dinghy cover w/Eddie at Hector’s shop, where the new bimini and cushion covers were made. A dinghy cover would serve several purposes: UV protection, ass-traction when sitting on the pontoons, side pockets to keep stuff dry and, most importantly, the swag of cool new blue threads. Since we’re there at Bruno’s and have minimal food stores on the Lib, we ate. Mmm, my big ol’ sea bass hit the spot.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> As usual, in mid-day, Grant and I jumped into the marina’s water to cool down and stretch our limbs.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ygTtK9o-tPE/UUCmW5ooiFI/AAAAAAAAB78/CRHuFAJNgD4/s1600/201303-05+20+G%2526J+marina+swim.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="438" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ygTtK9o-tPE/UUCmW5ooiFI/AAAAAAAAB78/CRHuFAJNgD4/s640/201303-05+20+G%2526J+marina+swim.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-73wSwPSLBsA/UUCmUl-wC9I/AAAAAAAAB70/Ux3gu8w_bNc/s1600/201303-05+21+G%2526J+marina+swim.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-73wSwPSLBsA/UUCmUl-wC9I/AAAAAAAAB70/Ux3gu8w_bNc/s640/201303-05+21+G%2526J+marina+swim.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> But tonight we got back well into the dark of night, all sticky, and leaped into the dark water and, oh yeah, it was good.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Tue., Mar 12</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> The rec. area has most of what any kitchen has and s.o.p. is to get a kettle of water to boil for coffee first thing.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wAJ7jllxtOo/UUTYX3RVTqI/AAAAAAAACCs/TpvCkRhQA4Y/s1600/201303-15+03+kitchen+area.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wAJ7jllxtOo/UUTYX3RVTqI/AAAAAAAACCs/TpvCkRhQA4Y/s640/201303-15+03+kitchen+area.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Mid-morning, after our java and listening to the cruiser’s net, we’re off the check on the Lib. No progress whatsoever. I hitched a ride back with Uli and left the boys to their own devices.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Fateful dinner at Mario's. So sorry for Grant.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Thu., Mar 14</b></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Yay, sandblasting complete.</span></b></span></span></span></span><br />
<b>Fri., Mar 15</b><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Grant volunteered his services to Allan, the dock boy, and they worked on cleaning this boat:</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xn2hGO7zbEI/UUTZLuZxhpI/AAAAAAAACC0/w0K4-CYdTcI/s1600/201303-15+08+grant+helping+alan.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xn2hGO7zbEI/UUTZLuZxhpI/AAAAAAAACC0/w0K4-CYdTcI/s640/201303-15+08+grant+helping+alan.JPG" width="616" /></a></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Allan later taught us to fish off the dock with a simple line and dog food. He caught five sizable fish for his family's dinner.</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u_xGgyCwXlE/UUXU-yp_e6I/AAAAAAAACEc/bnrtr0A5N8k/s1600/201303-15+10+alan%2527s+fish.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="630" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u_xGgyCwXlE/UUXU-yp_e6I/AAAAAAAACEc/bnrtr0A5N8k/s640/201303-15+10+alan%2527s+fish.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Grant and I fill in the quiet hours in the rec. area; I teach him card games and he schools me on rap slang.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AKK4RyEZ7MQ/UUXVYRPODAI/AAAAAAAACFc/GfkTICnjoGk/s1600/201303-15+33+grant%2527s+4+aces.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AKK4RyEZ7MQ/UUXVYRPODAI/AAAAAAAACFc/GfkTICnjoGk/s640/201303-15+33+grant%2527s+4+aces.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No longer a poker virgin; note his winning hand!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steve chills<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lupe chills</td></tr>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> On Fridays <i>Casa Perico</i> has a big buffet. They sent a launch across the river to collect us and a few of our German slip neighbors.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">up the rivulet to <i>Casa Perico</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladies preparing the buffet.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Sat., Mar 16</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> A slip neighbor needed some dental work done in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morales,_Guatemala" target="_blank">Morales</a>, so Grant and I and a few others tagged along in the van driven the 45 minutes by Jen. En route we passed scores of roadside fruit and vegetable stands, manned by the folks who lived behind the stands. Nearly every one had a massive stack of pineapples - 50 or 60. Once in town we wandered about for a few hours, capturing some street scenes:</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--4CY1mfcz0w/UUXY0B_j7yI/AAAAAAAACF0/T2wxWJZtejY/s1600/201303-16+01+dinghy+to+van.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="529" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--4CY1mfcz0w/UUXY0B_j7yI/AAAAAAAACF0/T2wxWJZtejY/s640/201303-16+01+dinghy+to+van.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">en route to the mini van</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QIZV6atbkSA/UUXY7JAUFyI/AAAAAAAACGc/V4924164IB8/s1600/201303-16+18+John%252C+Jen+in+Morales.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="545" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QIZV6atbkSA/UUXY7JAUFyI/AAAAAAAACGc/V4924164IB8/s640/201303-16+18+John%252C+Jen+in+Morales.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John & Jen</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eRMcnuw8W64/UUXY1tgTkAI/AAAAAAAACF8/H-VTZB-hIU4/s1600/201303-16+06+chicks%252C+Morales.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="505" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eRMcnuw8W64/UUXY1tgTkAI/AAAAAAAACF8/H-VTZB-hIU4/s640/201303-16+06+chicks%252C+Morales.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">future tacos</td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yxQsvIlPM2A/UUXY2sqxaKI/AAAAAAAACGE/AdACSs66avE/s1600/201303-16+07+produce%252C+Morales.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="340" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yxQsvIlPM2A/UUXY2sqxaKI/AAAAAAAACGE/AdACSs66avE/s640/201303-16+07+produce%252C+Morales.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vt-5BHXVjzs/UUXY4gjInSI/AAAAAAAACGM/is38m1u_F9Y/s1600/201303-16+09+cow+head%252C+Morales.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="529" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vt-5BHXVjzs/UUXY4gjInSI/AAAAAAAACGM/is38m1u_F9Y/s640/201303-16+09+cow+head%252C+Morales.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t8DPLgUBM1w/UUXY7Ss4B-I/AAAAAAAACGY/zuQrIdIdEYg/s1600/201303-16+12+street+scene%252C+Morales.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t8DPLgUBM1w/UUXY7Ss4B-I/AAAAAAAACGY/zuQrIdIdEYg/s640/201303-16+12+street+scene%252C+Morales.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tuk-tuks</td></tr>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Back to Monkey Bay in the early afternoon. Dinner and pool shooting<b></b> with Brad.</span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Sun., Mar 17</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Early morning boaters' swap meet at Bruno's. Steve picked up a fender and a carabiner and we were sorely tempted by a three-man hookah.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> With the sandblasting complete, they've started applying the first coat of primer - looking good.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> The fenders are now in the shop for covers and Tuesday they will do the final measurements for the dinghy cover.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Steve had lunch with Patrick, a French sailor, and Brad to discuss possibly buddy-boating across to Jamaica or the Caymans. We had initially planned to day trip up the Belize and Mexican coasts and head east from Isla Mujeres. With Cap'n Casey one only knows the course on the day of departure, so we may still do that.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> ETD? If with Patrick & Brad, Friday the 29th; if on our own, this Friday the 22nd at high tide.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Mon., Mar 18</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> Bottom painting 101: Remove old paint, apply primer and anti-fouling paint (two coats of each in our case). I've painted my share of rooms and the main thing I've learned is not to rush; let each coat dry thoroughly. The hulls I've painted can be counted on one hand if that hand had no fingers, so when I heard something about needing to apply successive coats while the previous coat is still tacky, it stuck in my craw but I had to accept it. So today the second coat of primer goes on as well as the first coat of anti-fouling paint. <i>[From what I gather anti-fouling paint has a certain copper content that disagrees with the little marine plants and animals that tend to glom on to and "foul" the hull]</i> The second anti-foul coat is planned for tomorrow morning and we "splash" in the afternoon. <i>[People ask, "When's yer Splash Day?" which I always regarded as the day Daryl Hannah finally returned my calls, but now take it to mean the opposite of hauling-out]</i> So splashing tomorrow seems premature to me 'cuz humidity, of which we have lots, has got to affect all paints.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Tue., Mar 19</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Splash Day came and went; they did put on the final anti-foul coat, but not until past noon and there still remained the bow-thruster blades to be painted and reinstalled, the propeller polished and anti-fouled, several zincs to be attached and a couple other items. Some of these were accomplished, but still we weren't ready to splash. Mañana, 9 am, we're told.</span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><b>Wed., Mar 20</b></span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> We're there early, L2 is lookin' pretty good and hopes are high. But as the giant cradle machine lifts her up and those Dali-like stick legs they use to balance boats on the hard are removed, along with them comes, as I feared, paint - in some places down to the primer. Easy touch-up, yeah, but then where the cradle supporting the boat was slackened, off comes more. It jus<b>'</b> wharn't dry. We insisted at least another day before splashing. Had we not made repeated trips (Steve made most of them) to inspect the work I have no doubt L2 would have been launched with several problems. We watched most of the various steps and, besides the haul-out, none of the work was a big deal for the average guy to do.</span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> Other concurrent projects...one of the two solar panel banks hasn't been working and it turns out the barely year-old regulator had fried. Found a new one in Fronteras and plugged 'er in to no avail, dinghied back again and swapped for a new one, this time testing it before leaving the store. Steve hooked it up and it seems fine. That doggone wind-genny hasn't produced juice since Mexico; the local "electrician" here strikes me as a slacker with more bark than bite and although Steve has met with him several times and he <i style="font-weight: normal;">says</i> wind-gennies are simple machines, it ain't working. The dinghy </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">was re-measured today,</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span> its new duds due tomorrow as well as Lib's fender covers. Although all this covering has practical purposes (UV and abrasive protection), we'll be stylin' big time, oh yeah.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tgy_mPvOCHM/UUpnbKQl38I/AAAAAAAACG0/DtoBDe1HRcM/s1600/201303-19+02+alan+takes+kids+to+school.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="416" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tgy_mPvOCHM/UUpnbKQl38I/AAAAAAAACG0/DtoBDe1HRcM/s640/201303-19+02+alan+takes+kids+to+school.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big brother Allan takes Abby & Bertilda to school</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W2qLJYXC40o/UUpsqqnIicI/AAAAAAAACHc/Pe-xohueXcM/s1600/201303-18+04+abby+y+bertilda+to+school.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W2qLJYXC40o/UUpsqqnIicI/AAAAAAAACHc/Pe-xohueXcM/s640/201303-18+04+abby+y+bertilda+to+school.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thomas, Abby & Bertilda to school</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AmPA68oW1E4/UUpn-1moWvI/AAAAAAAACHU/cP1MOKEzKfM/s1600/201303-19+11+final+anti-fouling+coat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AmPA68oW1E4/UUpn-1moWvI/AAAAAAAACHU/cP1MOKEzKfM/s640/201303-19+11+final+anti-fouling+coat.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">final anti-fouling coat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_EntXCQisfo/UUpnu6CltmI/AAAAAAAACHE/Vz6w9xuLZ-s/s1600/201303-19+09+rio+dulce+-+gutstix.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_EntXCQisfo/UUpnu6CltmI/AAAAAAAACHE/Vz6w9xuLZ-s/s640/201303-19+09+rio+dulce+-+gutstix.JPG" width="462" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GutStix sighting, Rio Dulce</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QrQZvWtExao/UUpn-uARpyI/AAAAAAAACHQ/w76_cPDQ11s/s1600/201303-19+05+exploring+rivulet.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QrQZvWtExao/UUpn-uARpyI/AAAAAAAACHQ/w76_cPDQ11s/s640/201303-19+05+exploring+rivulet.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring rivulet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QPlFe4MYNTw/UUpnmDpm4xI/AAAAAAAACG8/1SRNbtHh0pI/s1600/201303-18+21+monkey+bay+-+seagull+perch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QPlFe4MYNTw/UUpnmDpm4xI/AAAAAAAACG8/1SRNbtHh0pI/s640/201303-18+21+monkey+bay+-+seagull+perch.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkey Bay seagull perches</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><b>Thu., Mar 21, '13</b></span></b></span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> The arrangement with Raoul for a two-week visa extension expires today. Our morning trip to Ram Marina finds L2 still needing touchup paint and, of course, another day to dry. Splash Day is now set for tomorrow. A further complication is that el Jefe, the owner of Monkey Bay, is arriving a week earlier than expected making tonight our last in the cozy guest cabin. If we have the boat tomorrow, no problem. If not, Jen told me we could crash in the rec. area which would be fine with me and <span class="Apple-style-span">probably with Steve & Grant.</span></span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> </span><span style="color: red;">Disclaimer:</span><span style="color: black;"> With no sailing adventures or lost limbs to report you can see I'm struggling to make the mundane interesting. Thanks, readers, for slogging through this far...</span></span></span></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KonrVNCYJRo/UVc3Eu7bzOI/AAAAAAAACH8/w1HS2ZxmTu8/s1600/201303-20+14+Thomas+got+a+haircut.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="557" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KonrVNCYJRo/UVc3Eu7bzOI/AAAAAAAACH8/w1HS2ZxmTu8/s640/201303-20+14+Thomas+got+a+haircut.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thomas got a haircut</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fto-yjFquJA/UVc2_wsmPzI/AAAAAAAACHs/wn6G6k0LqOc/s1600/201303-21+02+monkey+bay%252C+seining.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="445" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fto-yjFquJA/UVc2_wsmPzI/AAAAAAAACHs/wn6G6k0LqOc/s640/201303-21+02+monkey+bay%252C+seining.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">seining</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KevagwyqVNQ/UVc3Gkq6opI/AAAAAAAACIE/t1U-JQHF8gE/s1600/201303-22+18+passing+panga.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="355" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KevagwyqVNQ/UVc3Gkq6opI/AAAAAAAACIE/t1U-JQHF8gE/s640/201303-22+18+passing+panga.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">room for one more?</td></tr>
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<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Fri., Mar. 22, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> </span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;">Splash Day!</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> <span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">But for a bit of trouble
backing into Monkey Bay it went smoothly…and just in time<span style="font-size: small;"> for<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span>we now have a place to
sleep.</span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Again </span>to <i>Casa Perico’s</i> Friday buffet, this time wienerschnitzel und kartoffeln with several side<span style="font-size: small;">s.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">I rarely finish a
normal-sized meal but this was really good and I went back for seconds on the
schnitz</span>.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> A fellow there had adopted a pet <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinkajou" target="_blank">kinkajou</a>. The dear thing liked to be handled, hung upside-down and would gently gnaw on fingers.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_8B34NG02Wg/UVc3G_eqi5I/AAAAAAAACIM/vO4Zl3KIHu0/s1600/201303-22+26+kinkajou.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_8B34NG02Wg/UVc3G_eqi5I/AAAAAAAACIM/vO4Zl3KIHu0/s640/201303-22+26+kinkajou.JPG" width="541" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can I have one, Mom?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Sat., Mar. 23, '13</b> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Really hot today, even for Guatemala. Finally got the dinghy and fender covers.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dojj7zjVkn4/UVc3Oa31e_I/AAAAAAAACIc/vRDM9SqYaII/s1600/201303-23+03+dinghy+cover.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="338" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dojj7zjVkn4/UVc3Oa31e_I/AAAAAAAACIc/vRDM9SqYaII/s400/201303-23+03+dinghy+cover.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Did some provisioning, topped off the boat water, replaced the shackles & cars at the five batten points and did a couple loads of laundry; gearing up to leave for Livingston Monday morning.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Sun., Mar. 24</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Tooling around town and lunch at <i>Backpacker's</i>.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPuWUCLxCJU/UVc3CRmtH8I/AAAAAAAACH0/mgc-HrrUp28/s1600/201303-20+12+Steve%252C+Grant+-+Rio+Dulce.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="396" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wPuWUCLxCJU/UVc3CRmtH8I/AAAAAAAACH0/mgc-HrrUp28/s640/201303-20+12+Steve%252C+Grant+-+Rio+Dulce.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OjKYbwfqk9Y/UVc3TrNenQI/AAAAAAAACIs/_LQdG9Tsnpc/s1600/201303-24+06+cattle+truck%252C+rio+dulce.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="531" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OjKYbwfqk9Y/UVc3TrNenQI/AAAAAAAACIs/_LQdG9Tsnpc/s640/201303-24+06+cattle+truck%252C+rio+dulce.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TAuOZ-awVyE/UVc3NTRXAMI/AAAAAAAACIU/lXbaSr0juDQ/s1600/201303-24+04+backpacker%2527s+DINGHYCOVER.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="437" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TAuOZ-awVyE/UVc3NTRXAMI/AAAAAAAACIU/lXbaSr0juDQ/s640/201303-24+04+backpacker%2527s+DINGHYCOVER.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bridge from <i>Backpacker's</i> Restaurant (Note spiffy new dinghy cover)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xQwx6lKVhio/UVc3QMQIq-I/AAAAAAAACIk/FaYtS-JXuU4/s1600/201303-24+05+backpacker%2527s.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="529" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xQwx6lKVhio/UVc3QMQIq-I/AAAAAAAACIk/FaYtS-JXuU4/s640/201303-24+05+backpacker%2527s.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rental cabin at <i>Backpacker's</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Steve went into town for dinner with Brad. Monkey Bay’s owner was in for the Easter week and after his party broke up I had a comfortably long conversation and beers with him and a few stragglers. Very nice folks.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TCH-xzsItkE/UVc5X8ibIlI/AAAAAAAACJw/tAo_YEIJXew/s1600/201303-29+10+Oettinger+Super+Forte+beer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TCH-xzsItkE/UVc5X8ibIlI/AAAAAAAACJw/tAo_YEIJXew/s320/201303-29+10+Oettinger+Super+Forte+beer.JPG" width="174" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> They left me a 6-pack of wicked-serious 8.9% German beer, a Monkey Bay t-shirt and good wishes.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Mon., Mar. 25</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> The early morning was really windy and drizzling rain; no good for guiding the Lib out between the closely-spaced pilings at Monkey Bay nor to belly up to the diesel pumps. Still, we made ready knowing that if this weather kept up we might stay another day. We’re pressing our luck with Raoul, the C&I guy, having overstayed three weeks already. Around 9:00 the wind went dead calm and the rain stopped. Man the dock lines, boys, we’re outta here.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yqCjjHjYkX0/UVc3X4KUmHI/AAAAAAAACI8/fXToZ9ArtQ8/s1600/201303-25+06+ram-uli+%2526+imke.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yqCjjHjYkX0/UVc3X4KUmHI/AAAAAAAACI8/fXToZ9ArtQ8/s400/201303-25+06+ram-uli+%2526+imke.JPG" width="391" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye to friends Uli & Imke</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/PkZsrWnHK0w?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>slideshow of our 3 weeks in and around Fronteras</div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> <i>50 gal. + 10 in jerrys @ Q38/gallon. 2568 engine hours.</i> At 1040 after topping off the fuel we head for Livingston. I enjoyed the winding Dulce just as much as when we came up it four months ago. Anchored off Livingston at 1340. 15.49.229 x 88.44.895.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DAIusCYqxSo/UY-bToOKs_I/AAAAAAAACQE/x8TTrf_TjTo/s1600/map-Guatemala,+Rio+D+to+Livingston+(g-earth)2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DAIusCYqxSo/UY-bToOKs_I/AAAAAAAACQE/x8TTrf_TjTo/s640/map-Guatemala,+Rio+D+to+Livingston+(g-earth)2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Buga Mama para el almuerzo.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arialmt" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Call me Ishmael and stick a feather in it ‘cause we’re going
the hard way. The original plan to
hop-skip north along Belize & the Yucatan then east from Isla Mujeres, as
the winds would favor, has been officially scrapped for a due east slog to
St.Croix, the white whale. This’ll
surely test Grant, if not all three of us.</span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arialmt" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: ArialMT;"></span></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Tue., Mar. 26</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> 80F/69% Under way at 0700 with one of the month’s highest tides. Armed with a plan to get over “the bank”, we headed right for the buoy indicated in our sailor’s guide and got stuck harder and deeper than when going up four months ago. 15.49.683 x 88.44.311. Before we had a chance to radio for help our old panganeer was speeding toward us. This time, instead of tipping us by the mast, he tied to the bow and tugged - this way, that way, for half an hour. Our motor started smoking but eventually we broke free.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> It’s a gray, windy, very choppy day, gusting in the mid-20s. Grant immediately feels the effects. You’ve got to take the Dramamine or whatever </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px; text-decoration: underline;">before</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> you get seasick, so all he can do is suffer through it. Because we <i>again</i> discovered the 24V system wasn’t charging, the remarkably rough sea, and Grant’s condition, we decided to head for the closest land, anchor and reassess the idea of continuing the 24 hour passage to Roatan. At least we could give the engine a rest in hopefully calmer seas for Grant’s sake. We cut due east toward Cabo de Tres Puntas<span style="font-size: small;">, a sparsely populated spit at the northernmost tip of Guatemala's Bahia de Amatique.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> As we approached land, the depth decreased quickly; 70, 50, 25, 14, 10! Back off, turn out! Phew, we dropped anchor in 12’ and in the still high winds and rocking waves luck gave me a strong hold on the first try, evidenced by the GPS: over the next several hours we didn’t drift an inch. 15.54.848 x 88.34.559.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P8hZaLU8mVg/UVc3b8XYgKI/AAAAAAAACJM/lutQs-CdEIg/s1600/201303-26+04+map-monitor%252C+unknown+anchorage.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="433" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P8hZaLU8mVg/UVc3b8XYgKI/AAAAAAAACJM/lutQs-CdEIg/s640/201303-26+04+map-monitor%252C+unknown+anchorage.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
</div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> The twice-rebuilt alternator seems to be the charging problem because running the gen-set charges properly. Having looked for obvious problems, like a loose wire, all we could do was tighten the squeaky belts, which didn’t help. But hurrah, huzzah and hallelujah, Steve got the wind genny working and it’s spinning out enough juice to keep us even-steven with what we’re burning at anchor.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Around 1600, while reading, I heard a motor buzzing nearby. Anywhere else this wouldn’t have caught my attention, but we had anchored out maybe a mile from a very sparsely populated spit at the edge of Guatemala, so I popped out to investigate. It was a guy and gal on a jet-ski checking us out - understandable, as we’re a big ol’ sailboat, the only one in sight. (They seemed just as out of place). We exchanged waves and, as they came closer, holas.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> I explained our situation and they very kindly went back to shore to ask around. Nope, no shops, and certainly no electricians, anywhere for many miles. They suggested we head for Puerto Barrios, the closest town - and the largest on the Caribbean coast of Guatemala. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> My last drift-check before sleep read that we still had a solid purchase on the sea bed...but now, as I write, the skies have opened with pounding rain and huge waves to match, so I might check again. In these conditions it wouldn’t take long for us to be washed ashore.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> As I’ve said, being in the business end of the boat, the bow, is being on the 'front lines'; I get the initial smacks and the big roller coasters but so long as it’s not side-to-side I’m okay and prefer this berth. Tonight I’ll be testing that testimony as we are getting squall after angry squall w/accompanying waves.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Wed., Mar. 27</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Depart 0710 for Puerto Barrios. Arrived around 0900, 15.43.773 x 88.36.267.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQTKw3XKbCk/UY-ich1nc_I/AAAAAAAACQQ/v7pgiL_ie4I/s1600/map-Guatemala,+Livingston+to+Porto+Barrios2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQTKw3XKbCk/UY-ich1nc_I/AAAAAAAACQQ/v7pgiL_ie4I/s640/map-Guatemala,+Livingston+to+Porto+Barrios2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Easter week is the biggest holy-week of the year here. It was morning and the town was gearing up for the next four days of celebration - banners, music, flowers and flags; cars and scooters, kids, cats & dogs.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
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<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Continued good luck and serendipity, I think, are still with us: discovering problems before we’re way out to sea, running into the jet-ski girl with her good advice, arriving in Puerto Barrios before Semana Santa began, finding JR’s specialty motor shop and his acquaintance to rebuild the alternator. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Initially, while Steve took the electrician to the Lib, Grant & I wandered. We lost track of time and where we were.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4jRcJ5nXvo/UVc3gBdJSKI/AAAAAAAACJk/NxkiiSdEeSs/s1600/201303-27+15++Puerto+Barrios%252C+tienda+w_plants.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="465" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4jRcJ5nXvo/UVc3gBdJSKI/AAAAAAAACJk/NxkiiSdEeSs/s640/201303-27+15++Puerto+Barrios%252C+tienda+w_plants.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flora & ferocious dog</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wu0Mxf9FYUU/UVc3VX5-O3I/AAAAAAAACI0/KEGl7UY8x5g/s1600/201303-25+16+livingston+bike-truck.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="399" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wu0Mxf9FYUU/UVc3VX5-O3I/AAAAAAAACI0/KEGl7UY8x5g/s640/201303-25+16+livingston+bike-truck.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cool wheels</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Not wanting to delay the issue at hand we asked directions to our rendezvous point and found we were pretty far away. The man we had asked drove up in his pickup and said, “Hop in, I’ll take you.” Good thing; we were a ten minute walk away. Steve laughed as we hopped out the back like locals.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Lots of waiting at JR's, most of the afternoon in fact.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TPSbz2O4rHo/Ucm5DfktAAI/AAAAAAAACV4/SvfGjUcH-dM/s1600/201303-27+09++Puerto+Barrios,+JR%27s+carburators.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="452" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TPSbz2O4rHo/Ucm5DfktAAI/AAAAAAAACV4/SvfGjUcH-dM/s640/201303-27+09++Puerto+Barrios,+JR's+carburators.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JR has more carbs than Carter has pills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A4MmqWbAoT0/UVc3aYlGT1I/AAAAAAAACJE/wx2-WiV-1Dk/s1600/201303-27+07++Puerto+Barrios_ols+Dodge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="459" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A4MmqWbAoT0/UVc3aYlGT1I/AAAAAAAACJE/wx2-WiV-1Dk/s640/201303-27+07++Puerto+Barrios_ols+Dodge.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Dodge at JR's</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> While the Casey boys were in search of an open bank I wandered around and found <i>Pasteles de Tropical</i>, a coffee & sweet roll place, to pass some time. They have a nice adjoining bakery.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i><Grant</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i> Today--was a bit more productive on my part, I was feeling much better</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i> On the way to Puerto Barrios, I drove behind the wheel the last 20 minutes, through the red and green buoys</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i> After anchoring we pumped up the dinghy so we could get to a pier and find an electrician.. luckily this short guy there spoke english and knew a friend that could drive us around to find the right electrician</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i> After getting to 19 calle and 6 avenida we met JR the son of the owner of this shop, he spoke good english and was able to translate everything for dad. JR hooked us up with this other guy Julio who was a mechanical engineer and was willing to come to the boat multiple times to check out the problem.. after many trips and a lot of tips to taxi drivers, dock dudes, etc julio was able to put us in right place make it to roatan hopefully... xxx fingers</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i>while julio was working, we had to wait a couple hours, we decided to walk around town.. we found a traditional eating spot, owned by a couple moms and a boy who catered us with carne asada, rice, and macaroni with mayonnaise on top..</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lt4MGbW6Yxw/UVc3gCURe5I/AAAAAAAACJg/StoBFYr8hRM/s1600/201303-27+17++Puerto+Barrios%252C+making+lunch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lt4MGbW6Yxw/UVc3gCURe5I/AAAAAAAACJg/StoBFYr8hRM/s400/201303-27+17++Puerto+Barrios%252C+making+lunch.JPG" width="383" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IaZB4Dic9W0/UVc3jpT-0pI/AAAAAAAACJs/YRryEk0PcTI/s1600/201303-27+20+Puerto+Barrios+at+lunch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="481" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IaZB4Dic9W0/UVc3jpT-0pI/AAAAAAAACJs/YRryEk0PcTI/s640/201303-27+20+Puerto+Barrios+at+lunch.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kw9Fz9a8Oq8/UVc3fKZ78-I/AAAAAAAACJU/ZQG0aWkLcU8/s1600/201303-27+19+Puerto+Barrios_John+%2526+Diego.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="613" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kw9Fz9a8Oq8/UVc3fKZ78-I/AAAAAAAACJU/ZQG0aWkLcU8/s640/201303-27+19+Puerto+Barrios_John+%2526+Diego.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New friend Diego</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i> dad and i split from mr guthrie to go to citi bank and get cash to pay the julio.. on the way the two of us we’re lost because of walking to the other side of town, we spent about a hour walking until we we’re able to check on the dinghy.></i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Thu., Mar. 28</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> 0650 depart Puerto Barrios</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span">
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Winds mostly punching us in the nose and ill-defined seas made for a rocky passage; none of us could catch our balance, let alone catch many zees. And, oy, at night we'd stagger through the salon like drunken sailors lurching for a bar rail. Now I see an advantage, besides the worship, to be <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durga" target="_blank">Durga</a> or having opposable toes. Fortunately, I don’t think anyone actually fell.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Damn! The 24V system quit charging again! Probably the now thrice-cursed alternator.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Now, way out to sea, I began recording our lat/long, course, time and speed at frequent intervals, something Chris suggested during a conversation about systems failure. If we lost power and had only a paper chart and compass, these records would allow an approximation of our location.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Fri., Mar. 29</b></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1200 Not even on the salon sofa, where sleeping is easiest, could we get much rest. Finally, by opening a table leaf and wedging a pillow between it and me, was I able to cram myself into a nearly immobile position and relax a little, no longer worried to be tossed to the floor...until the books and charts came toppling down on my head. Oh, mon Dieu!</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Steve roused me at 0300 for my watch and climbing bleary-eyed up to the cockpit, I saw bright yellow lights scattered on the horizon, but too high to be a ship unless it was right on top of us. It was the nearly full moon peeking through broken clouds and it must have been close to the earth ‘cause it was huge. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">All night it offered a gentle glow so I could at least see the horizon and yellow flickers on the water, advantageous when sailing at night.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> As my caffeine-fueled watch wore on, the seas finally began to calm and by 0700, rolling in past old familiar Roatan, they'd gone to glass under a gorgeous Impressionist sunrise.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xRoFcAIUWfU/UVi2qJAbO0I/AAAAAAAACKQ/aFusKbqw_Jk/s1600/201303-29+12+roatan+sunrise.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="338" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xRoFcAIUWfU/UVi2qJAbO0I/AAAAAAAACKQ/aFusKbqw_Jk/s640/201303-29+12+roatan+sunrise.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> We snuck back in to the tricky Little French Harbor and I was over the side quick as I could.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> 16.21.218 x 86.26.565.</span></span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aZpJ6qqPl9o/UY-o7fBs3JI/AAAAAAAACQg/BjNZRDMtvHY/s1600/map-Puerto+Barrios+to+Roatan+(g-earth).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aZpJ6qqPl9o/UY-o7fBs3JI/AAAAAAAACQg/BjNZRDMtvHY/s640/map-Puerto+Barrios+to+Roatan+(g-earth).jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Poked around, slept and finally got online. <i>(Sorry folks for the effects of my recent email hackage. The very week I had no access someone hijacked my account and I couldn’t stop it until just today. In future remember that I’ll never send an email w/links that aren’t referenced in the subject or described in the body)</i>.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> I spoke a bit with Mike, whose wife owns Lilu’s dock and whose big blue boat burned up when we were here last, about our voyage and where we might find a new alternator. We three visited the Iguana Farm...</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grant feeding iguanas</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">...after which I was dropped, zombified from lack of sleep, at the boat while Steve & son ventured forth into town. This is Good Friday, so many shops are closed. I learned that in Honduras as well as in Guatemala, and likely most of Central America with its heavy Roman Catholic influence, they acknowledge Thursday through Easter Sunday as official holy days.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Sat., Mar. 30</b></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> Sometime after Tuesday the gen-set quit charging and this morning Steve found the cause - the belt is torn to shreds. We later learned the impeller was shot as well.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sun., Mar. 31</b></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span> <br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>Another swim at the reef in our "backyard".</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7gR1n5qi2Pc/UVr8n7OXVtI/AAAAAAAACK4/qZBwqgoR9l4/s1600/201303-31+03+dinghy+to+reef.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7gR1n5qi2Pc/UVr8n7OXVtI/AAAAAAAACK4/qZBwqgoR9l4/s640/201303-31+03+dinghy+to+reef.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> It's only 4-5 feet deep, so easy to explore the many types of coral. Scores of lobsters tucked into their little hideouts; a few colorful fish, too. All this is thanks in large part to Sherman Arch of the Iguana Farm. I had the pleasure of a relaxed conversation with that gentleman who told me the story of the near demise of not only the sea life but the reef itself. It's thriving now. He invited me to feed the lobsters with him Tuesday or Wednesday. <span style="font-size: small;">I'm anxious to see h</span>ow that works...maybe snorkel down with bits of fish? Sure wish I had Bryan's underwater camera.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> After cooling down we spent a while on Frenchy's Island.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lib II from Frenchy's Island<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon., Apr. 1</b></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> The first half of the day was spent searching for boat parts and pieces; we three and Brad and Patrick squeezed into cabs to visit a half dozen marine and electrical shops scattered along the south coast between French Harbor and Coxen Hole...with some success. After shopping we found little Bromac's Cafe and each selected the pollo dish as it was the only thing on the menu. It was great and only 80 limperas. (20 limps=$1).</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Tue., Apr. 2</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Brad spent hours this evening w/Steve working on the alternator, gen-set & fresh water system. Pasta dinner.</span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">MAINTENANCE:</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> New water filter=big flow.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> LPG-1 tank empty.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5tnzv6P4FPg/UWn4WqgE9bI/AAAAAAAACLk/j81Truux9C8/s1600/201304-02+02+grant%252C+steve-dinghy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5tnzv6P4FPg/UWn4WqgE9bI/AAAAAAAACLk/j81Truux9C8/s640/201304-02+02+grant%252C+steve-dinghy.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Wed., Apr. 3</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Still anchored at L'il French Harbor, it has been 72 hours now of constant winds over 20k; several times I saw it gust over 30. It’s hard, even, to maneuver the dinghy into the wind to get to shore. Grant, in the dinghy, was trapped by these conditions but fortunately got back to the Lib in reverse, which nearly filled the dinghy with water splashed over the transom. Great winds for sailing, not for anchoring.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Thu., Apr. 4</b></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Finally the wind & sea are still - too still in this heat. Lots of swims.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Salt is a desiccant, so clothes, especially towels, that have been used a number of times at sea stay salty and hold moisture so no matter how long they’re hung in the wind, they never quite dry.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Alternator working - again, it was only the disconnected ground wire. Doh.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Pizza night at Brooksy - Grant ordered <i>Roatan Shrimp Pizza</i>, surprisingly good.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Fri., Apr. 5</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Depart Little French Harbor. Motored long enough to hoist the main and get on course with Yakapati. And as the sun set, a dolphin escort.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Softly rolling seas grew choppy and erratic. Beginning watch w/continued high wind and seas.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Sat., Apr. 6</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Middle of the night, pot of Joe nearly kaput, I see the faint red glow of Yakapati’s mast two miles out. What sailing conditions! Although very rough, we have a north wind and if we wanted to go east, we surely are and at breakneck speed. Even with the main reefed and the jib reduced, I struggle to stay under 9k. I’ll bet we could approach 10k - faster than the <a href="http://www.psychosnail.com/boatspeedcalculator.aspx" target="_blank">theoretical algorithm</a> seemingly allows. What sails respond to is apparent wind and we've got it in spades.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>"</i></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i><a href="http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/water-sports/sailboat6.htm" target="_blank">Apparent wind</a> is what you feel while the ship's moving -- a combination
of the true wind and the wind that the boat's motion creates. This is
the wind that powers the ship."</i></span> </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Quantitative Easing:</i> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> 1000. Sea a little calmer, now five miles between boats. The wind barely shifts from north and rarely has fallen into the teens. It’s a shame in these speedy sailing conditions we have to slow down, but we’ve let out cloth and come more into the wind to allow our buddy boat to close the gap.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Noon. Now a 3-mile gap. We’ve come 140nm. Ah, but we could be flying. I really want to reach over and tug the sails tight, but as a true-blue buddy-boater, I’ll try to reign her in at 6k. This consideration, we will learn, will not be reciprocated.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> 1615 165nm, course 72º.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Kept lower boat speed till Yakapati passed about two miles off starboard and maybe a mile ahead. Decent seas, high teens wind, full sun. Yaka converged, crossing our path, and took a course nearly parallel to ours, just slightly more north. As the night progressed, to keep a full sail, I gradually veered south as far as 90º but back north when possible. That and Yaka’s diverging course separated us by 4-5 miles.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> By the end of Steve’s night watch we were at 98º with Yaka a couple miles back and four miles off our port, but with a heading more south, toward us.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> So, I’ve got this bum shoulder, had it for several years - the pain, that is; I've had the shoulder much longer. The rolfer sez, “Do this stretch”; the chiro, as he adjusts me <pop!>, “You spend too much time leaning forward”; the MD, “Yer just getting old” and Steve, characteristically, “Just work through it”. Anyway, there are only a few sleeping positions the shoulder can tolerate and none are compatible in the bow berth while avoiding the cold drips following each of the many waves that wash across my hatch. Move to salon. Whining over...for now.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WO6h0aWwD3c/UWn4UbvHq0I/AAAAAAAACLc/mzy3p9Ec4IQ/s1600/201304-06+17+BP.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="460" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WO6h0aWwD3c/UWn4UbvHq0I/AAAAAAAACLc/mzy3p9Ec4IQ/s640/201304-06+17+BP.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yakapati from Lib2</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Sun., Apr. 7</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />
0530 16.59 x 82.48, course 98º, 260nm trip. Light gray overcast, sea state getting messier. Wind just under 20, bps 7-8.5, both sails full.<br />
0630. Perfection - NNE winds in the high teens, heading due east, holding bsp in the mid-8s. Way out in the middle of the big blue sea, we haven’t heard the engine whine for more than 36 hours.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yakapati from Lib II</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Mid-day we had a couple wayward visitors. They had probably been blown off course as we were hundreds of miles from any land.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tcBCL9xWp7M/UWn4rhT-FvI/AAAAAAAACMU/RT_pBWSG0EE/s1600/201304-07+27+bird+on+board.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tcBCL9xWp7M/UWn4rhT-FvI/AAAAAAAACMU/RT_pBWSG0EE/s400/201304-07+27+bird+on+board.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> These birds had no fear of humans - landing near us, walking on us, even letting me pet them. This made it quite easy to grab them l'il avionic critters. Not candidates for sashimi and us without a small-bird recipe, they were only good for fish-bait. Now, with dwindling protein provisions, we may go all Donner Party on Grant.</span></span><br />
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Mon., Apr. 8</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />
0100 my shift. Holding 1.5 miles off Yaka’s port stern; gradually turning east.<br />
</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Wed., Apr. 10</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />
In the wee hours we’re timing our Jamaican arrival for just after sunrise. I’m keeping Yaka a few miles up and a mile to starboard. Suddenly she executes an extreme turn to port, crosses our path and continues beyond due north for several miles...so I follow. Oddly, she then slows to a halt for twenty minutes while I circle and radio with no response. Abruptly she’s off and running again and we’re rhumblining to Lucea. I followed them into the little bay for reconnoitering.</span><br />
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Yay, we’ve completed the <i>meaty, beaty, big and bouncy</i> slog across the first chunk of the Caribbean.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tqlc2zM2JVk/UWn486DwAsI/AAAAAAAACNE/iJoQeDqPO0o/s1600/201304-10+05+yakapati+at+lucea.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tqlc2zM2JVk/UWn486DwAsI/AAAAAAAACNE/iJoQeDqPO0o/s640/201304-10+05+yakapati+at+lucea.JPG" width="576" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yakapati in Lucea </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GLrdMZmmTjg/UWn43gfvgYI/AAAAAAAACM0/azlaIGoUX1I/s1600/201304-10+09+yakapati%252C+steve+at+lucea.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GLrdMZmmTjg/UWn43gfvgYI/AAAAAAAACM0/azlaIGoUX1I/s640/201304-10+09+yakapati%252C+steve+at+lucea.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It bothers me what Steve is looking at.</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">
0700 Anchored in 18’ in the bay of Lucea (pron. Lucy). 18.26.701 x 78.09.548; trip 712 nm. Dead calm wind and sea. It is so ghostly still - I’d like to say peacefully so - that now, even before 8:00, the sweating begins. Not much appears to be around this bay. The water is not at all clear - we suspect it is yet another bay-cum-waste dump for the surrounding communities. Much as I’d like to, and as is my custom, I won’t be jumping in. The town proper, we’ve read, is a mile away.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kc7pdDaRKPE/UWn5OpW2FuI/AAAAAAAACNc/TYaipMymcWQ/s1600/201304-11+03+big+boat_lucea.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kc7pdDaRKPE/UWn5OpW2FuI/AAAAAAAACNc/TYaipMymcWQ/s640/201304-11+03+big+boat_lucea.JPG" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only other boat in Lucea Bay - The Canova - 112'</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Now<span style="color: black;"> anchored in Lucea, Grant was clearly not having a good
time and decided he would head home asap. From what I’ve heard (and now seen) about <i>mal de mer</i>, between the nausea and
vertigo it can be so bad you literally can’t function. I’d’a jumped ship, too. So, a plan was quickly hatched - get to
shore, walk/thumb/somehow get to Montego Bay, check in to the country, find an
airport.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;"> So I dinghied
the Caseys to the nearest land - no docks anywhere - they climbed out, wading on the
rocky seabed, said bye, and walked on down the little road. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">This is probably for the best; Grant was
never more bright-eyed and animated than when packing to leave. </span></span></span>A few days later, as it turned out, we were
to begin a passage that was easily as grueling as the rollercoaster from Roatán.</span><br />
Back to L2, I swung by Yaka to pick up Brad on the way. Under intermittent rain storms, over a number of rums, we chatted about art and music and, as the rum did its work, parallel universes.<br />
Brad raced boats as a youngster and taught sailing to get through college. <i><Note: get his remarkable 2013 itinerary></i> Between rains, as we walked around the deck he scanned the various riggings and the times he spotted something amiss he’d tell me why and how to correct it or, more often, correct it on the spot. The man of 101 boat tips & tricks.<br />
Hours later I picked up Steve at the same rocky shore I’d dropped him. He waded back to the dinghy with horror stories of the Customs and Immigration bullshit he and Grant suffered, but also of the interesting characters they met on the way.<br />
So C&I said they’d have to send the Lucea police out to verify our boat. Patrick <span style="font-size: small;">didn't</span> like the sound of that and Yaka immediately left for Port Antonio. Steve and I slept over - way over<span style="font-size: small;"> -</span> 13 hours and still kinda tired. <span style="font-size: small;">The cops</span> never did come.<br />
</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Thu., Apr. 11</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The windicator has been off some ten degrees so per the owner’s manual we executed a 720<span style="font-size: small;">º</span> loop, putting the mechanism in ‘adjust’ mode, found dead wind and called it home.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Since we're all anchored up and running...hey, let's go.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> 0815 depart Lucea for Montego Bay. 18.27.750 x 77.56.441. A nice couple hours' sail. We found Montego Bay Yacht Club a comfortable, well-appointed marina. Completing the remainder of yesterday’s Customs and Immigration’s tedious and copious forms, our passports were returned and we were free to go. There is always waiting time; Steve and I filled it shooting pool on the marina’s beautiful table. The best and flattest we’ve seen on the entire voyage, and we’ve seen a quite a few.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uOyEbrSueqA/UWn471FQW9I/AAAAAAAACM8/sJ3lV6BLQgo/s1600/201304-11+10+montego+bay+yacht+club_pool.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="430" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uOyEbrSueqA/UWn471FQW9I/AAAAAAAACM8/sJ3lV6BLQgo/s640/201304-11+10+montego+bay+yacht+club_pool.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Curiously, the floor under the table seemed to be rolling. Was it the psilocybin of my misspent youth flashing back to haunt me?</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-48e6Wh3OwMw/UWn5LBsFecI/AAAAAAAACNU/_tQKdkK2aes/s1600/201304-11+13+montego+bay+yacht+club_sign.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-48e6Wh3OwMw/UWn5LBsFecI/AAAAAAAACNU/_tQKdkK2aes/s640/201304-11+13+montego+bay+yacht+club_sign.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I just had to take my shirt off.</td></tr>
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Once we’d jumped through the bureaucratic hoops, off to the market we go. It would have been 3-4 mile walk so it was fortunate that just after we’d started a fellow [Floyd, who has a story] stopped and drove us.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> First a light lunch at <i>Ritual's Coffee House</i>, then <i>MegaMart</i> provisioning, a Jamaican sim card and a cab back to MoBay Marina.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3qJ8iv-ha3A/UWn5G4TFL3I/AAAAAAAACNM/CmaMSrGRBus/s1600/201304-11+19+L2+from+montego+bay+yacht+club.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3qJ8iv-ha3A/UWn5G4TFL3I/AAAAAAAACNM/CmaMSrGRBus/s640/201304-11+19+L2+from+montego+bay+yacht+club.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lib II from Montego Bay Marina</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Quickly whipped the boat into taxi mode and at </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">~1700</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> depart MoBay and slowly approach open water. Todo tranquilo - so far. But in minutes Poseidon made his presence known and it became nearly impossible to move about above or below deck without collecting new bruises, and it was that way for the next 24 hours.</span><br />
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Fri., Apr. 12</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />
1940 18.10.025 x 76.27.21 Arrive Port Antonio just after dark.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Greeted by Brad, Patrick, Paul the dock master and a few friendly hands. We are BEAT, having endured huge, pounding waves no matter the tack, wind & current against us the entire way. This is probably the worst beating, and certainly the longest, we've taken since San Francisco. First order of business is a shower and clean, dry clothes; the first in over a week. With a moderate amount of temporary energy we four ventured into Porty, the adjoining town, accompanied, out of nowhere, by Chao, a diminutive, mandana’ed, gregarious, self-described tour guide, quick with a broad smile revealing that big space where a tooth once grew. He was essential to our Jamaican experience, he told us.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9vcdbeb9tgI/UxSEBGVhHSI/AAAAAAAACXQ/te2S1gBJyu4/s1600/201304-12+09b+explore+Port+Antonio.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9vcdbeb9tgI/UxSEBGVhHSI/AAAAAAAACXQ/te2S1gBJyu4/s1600/201304-12+09b+explore+Port+Antonio.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> He stayed with us, usually in the background, all night - to the local’s street conch stand, to a club or three, to a bar with pool tables and back to the marina. In the end I think someone gave him a few bucks.<br />
All evening the ground was still moving under my feet.<br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Sat., Apr. 13</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Clive lives in 'the bush'. He fishes from his handmade bamboo raft...</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WgPJYJFCpg8/UWn5ZN03ooI/AAAAAAAACNs/sBhg8oQ5tJk/s1600/201304-13+01+clive-lives+in+the+bush.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="472" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WgPJYJFCpg8/UWn5ZN03ooI/AAAAAAAACNs/sBhg8oQ5tJk/s640/201304-13+01+clive-lives+in+the+bush.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-emjx1YSC_hw/UWn5eMKl8JI/AAAAAAAACOE/vHOF29TpJRk/s1600/201304-13+03+clive-lives+in+the+bush.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="410" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-emjx1YSC_hw/UWn5eMKl8JI/AAAAAAAACOE/vHOF29TpJRk/s640/201304-13+03+clive-lives+in+the+bush.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> ...and can be seen exercising his ten dogs mornings on the west beach.</span>
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <<i>Pool, Marybell’s bar, showers, laundry, security</i>></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> We’d been to so many Spanish-speaking countries I was surprised that nearly no one speaks it here in Jamaica, rather it’s <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamaican_Patois" target="_blank">Patois</a> - a fun, efficient broken <span style="font-size: small;">E</span>nglish: "<i>Mon, c'myáh</i>". Most<span style="font-size: small;"> everyone we met was</span> very friendly and welcoming and knew just how far to push before taking 'no' for an answer.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XbZaOxLZqMY/UZyhBroVulI/AAAAAAAACTM/D5DriYC39Sw/s1600/201304-15+02+Port+Antonio+bar+from+Lib.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XbZaOxLZqMY/UZyhBroVulI/AAAAAAAACTM/D5DriYC39Sw/s640/201304-15+02+Port+Antonio+bar+from+Lib.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marybell's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> I spent a lot of time with Devon, Roots and Chef, often retiring, and not very surreptitiously, to the "Happy Tree" behind Marybell's bar/cafe. They were all interesting and interested.</span><br />
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-efeSAch2Dk0/UXfAhdnLDxI/AAAAAAAACOY/oxp-da9x7lQ/s1600/201304-13+06+shauna+%2528flava%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-efeSAch2Dk0/UXfAhdnLDxI/AAAAAAAACOY/oxp-da9x7lQ/s640/201304-13+06+shauna+%2528flava%2529.JPG" width="632" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Flava"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4CEJkaR2yCs/UXfAhpogp0I/AAAAAAAACOc/xk9oOjIOJVA/s1600/201304-14+07+chef+%2526+john.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4CEJkaR2yCs/UXfAhpogp0I/AAAAAAAACOc/xk9oOjIOJVA/s640/201304-14+07+chef+%2526+john.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Chef"</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbrPwJsVqkU/UxSFAHeRfuI/AAAAAAAACXk/W7jEq_hnSho/s1600/201304-14+roots,+john+&+devon.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbrPwJsVqkU/UxSFAHeRfuI/AAAAAAAACXk/W7jEq_hnSho/s1600/201304-14+roots,+john+&+devon.gif" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> <i>Hype or Bait ‘n Switch?</i> We’re in Jamaica,
mon, and as a dyed-in-the-wool java junkie, of course I had to try the renowned
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamaican_Blue_Mountain_Coffee">Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee</a>. The Blue Mountains are between here in Port
Antonio and Kingston, so just a short drive away. I regret not making that trip. I would have enjoyed seeing the harvesting
processes and buying some right from the source. I balked at the marina’s gift shop price of
$25/lb. and bought from a local guy for $15.
My discerning palate was not impressed with its flavor or body, so either
it doesn’t measure up to the hype or the guy hustled me a bag o’ schwag. Until I get back to Jamaica or order some online,
I won’t know.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">
</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> The slip charge is $50/day
and, arriving in the dark, it was the safe, expeditious thing to do. We enjoyed the convenience of stepping right
from boat to the dock to lug laundry & accumulated trash, but anchoring only cost $15 and it’s a mere
two-minute dinghy ride away. We gathered
up a few new friends and made a party of the hundred-yard voyage. I’m sure Steve, who drank almost no alcohol since Rio D, was tacitly thankful
I maintained a full supply of rum and beer.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"> But…while Brad (thankfully
him, lest I be blamed) was dropping the anchor, the windlass
locked up. Some poking and prodding with
screwdrivers allowed us to anchor, but the prospect of possibly weighing it by
hand weighed on our minds. But, for now,
it’s party time – crack open the rum and turn up the tunes...Mraz and that "untrimmed chest" band ... again.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Sun., Apr. 14</b></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> We worked on the windlass, removed the jib that
seems to be stretched causing it to shiver and replaced it with the 20% bigger one
stashed in a lazarette since Seattle.</span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bfyVC8iAvcA/UZyhAeqEMyI/AAAAAAAACTE/yaSp1ZqcOTY/s1600/201304-14+01+brad%252C+steve+install+120+jib.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bfyVC8iAvcA/UZyhAeqEMyI/AAAAAAAACTE/yaSp1ZqcOTY/s400/201304-14+01+brad%252C+steve+install+120+jib.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brad & Steve replace jib</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> That evening
Steve and posse cabbed over to the Boston Jerk Centre, a stretch of open-air
stalls serving the famously-seasoned meat.
He brought back a bag for me, pork, and it was great.</span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Mon., Apr. 15</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>60 gal. diesel, engine hours 2684</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> 1130 depart Port Antonio. The Jamaican waters are much friendlier today as we leave the harbor under a single reef and our newly-installed 120 genoa<span style="font-size: small;">.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Motor switched off right away. w14-18; bsp 6-7; course 55º. A light overcast above us, long, lazy swells below and only a few whitecaps. Yaka bringing up the rear.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Throughout the day, as expected, the trades blew from the east<span style="font-size: small;">,</span> from our destination, <span style="font-size: small;">t</span>he <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominican_Republic" target="_blank">Dominican Republic</a>, so we got in lots of tacktice. Wind speed was consistent in the high teens and we sailed 6-8k, sometimes opting for speed, sometimes course. Didn’t really need that reef in so at day’s end Steve yanked it out, buying us another knot.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Well, golly, within a couple hours, conditions changed - imagine that! The winds built to the mid/high 20s, gusting over 30 and the sea grew an awful lot of nasty, disorganized lumps of water. Now we’re trying to stay <u>under</u> 9k and being tossed about like Neptune’s little punks. On it went through the night and into Tuesday morning.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Tue., Apr. 16</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Things gradually eased off till by late afternoon we’re drifting along towards Haiti in an indigo rockabye sea at a comfortable 6-7k.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <b>Wed., Apr. 17</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> I had been planning to spend a peaceful night at anchor off Ile a Vache, below Haiti, temporarily escaping the 24-hour vigilance and brutally monotonous circadian rhythm-busting night watches. Our morning SSB contact w/Yaka dashed that hope. Now we are to rendezvous at Isla Beata, DR, forty-some hours distant. I am promised a couple days’ shore leave. Meanwhile, we are catching some rare winds that allow us to sail with good speed along Haiti’s south coast at 84º - prit’near due east.</span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">
</span>
<br />
<div style="color: #a8c6fa; font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">MAINTENANCE: KX Industries Flow-Max water filter replaced. Blue cap-20 microns.</span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Thu., Apr. 18</b></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>We’re going the distance, we’re going for speed.</i><br />
Heavy, 30+ winds and punishing waves, but making good time, zooming along over 8k. But it was truly rough; cups, books and fruit that, before this, never considered jumping the fiddle rail leapt with abandon to where<span style="font-size: small;">...</span>they didn’t know or care, <span style="font-size: small;">so</span> long as it was out for even a little while. Though they departed their assigned shelves, none escaped the ship.<br />
When we finally made contact with Yaka, they were anchored off Isla Beata. Brad said, “Well, we’re just about to head out.” Huh? In the dinghy to explore the island? NO - they’re weighing anchor, circling south of the island and heading farther east. Well, dammit, I need a break somewhere, if only for a day.</span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Unlike Steve, I don’t have an instant
sleep/wake switch but I rest my eyes when off watch. The cumulative effect of erratic sleep
patterns are getting to me; sometimes so bleary-eyed I can’t even make out
the inch-high numbers on the readouts for speed, depth, etc. Coffee only takes you so far and too much gets
you twitchy & nervous; not ideal traits for making sailing decisions.
Stretching helps get the blood moving a little but sometimes I’ve had to resort
to the old slap-yerself-in-the-face method.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">
So we plug on towards our next tack point - right on the southern border between Haiti and DR. But for the better part of a day we’ve been in sustained winds between 28 and 31, several times topping 35 and are beat. Exhausted and sleep-deprived, we decide to anchor for the night. No way - even just two miles off the coast the winds never diminished. Screw it - we double reefed, cut the jib cloth in half and plugged on down the coast toward Isle Beata. It seemed to take an age to cover those 27 miles. Both of us were struggling to stay not just alert, but actually awake.<br />
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<![endif]--><span style="background-color: white;"> Finally, <span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">sometime past midnight</span>, we are close enough <span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">to the Island’s shore</span> to
consider anchoring, continued high winds be damned. Dark as the inside of a cow
and blustery as a squall<span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">,
the wind and current governed our movement, not the rudder. Try as</span><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;"> we might the boat
would not cooperate. It was the oddest
thing, like a force-field blocking our approach. All we could do was circle, bouncing off to port
or starboard whenever we got close. At wits' end, I suggested we go out a half mile, aim straight toward shore
and put the pedal to the metal under autopilot.
We broke through to anchoring depth.
I'm no more superstitious than the next guy, but in hindsight it seems something was
trying to keep us away from this place; aye, t'was an ill wind blew that day.
The next 72 hours would see us held in this island’s toxic eddy.</span></span><br />
Steve generally handles deck tasks like switching out running backstays, adjusting <span style="font-size: small;">fairleads</span>, raising and dropping the main, while I man the helm, usually to hold into the wind. But this night, as anchorman, I got my share of salty slaps trying to do what are usually simple tasks, like tying knots or, well, standing.<br />
0115 anchor finally down off Isla Beata. <i>17.36.414x71.31.884; trip 545nm; engine hours 2727</i>.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e_FNx3DmuOc/UY_CiF87PSI/AAAAAAAACRA/KKXI-2TLO3o/s1600/map-caribbean+Pt+Antonio+to+Isla+Beata.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e_FNx3DmuOc/UY_CiF87PSI/AAAAAAAACRA/KKXI-2TLO3o/s1600/map-caribbean+Pt+Antonio+to+Isla+Beata.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> I must'a caught something hard on the bed because messing with the sail in 20+ winds jerked the boat hard, this way & that, and she hain’t moved but an inch or three all night. That sure gave the anchorage the seal of approval.</span><br />
<b>Fri., Apr. 19, '13</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b></b></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> I awoke to the Chris Parker Show crackling over the SSB, not nearly as achy as I thought I’d be after these days of hard sailing. Big winds are still blowing but now, safely at anchor, they’re cooling zephyrs wafting through the hatches and portholes that haven’t seen fresh air for many days. The sun is out as we bob a half mile off Isla Beata with its handful of palapas but otherwise apparently uninhabited. And, ah, doesn’t coffee taste much better when not drunk from a sippy cup! Nothing’s tipping over today.<br />
We’re on the northwest tip of the island and the morning illuminates rocky cliffs to starboard, a sandy shore with a few palapas to port and between, thick vegetation.<br />
I haven’t had a steady job for decades but I still remember looking forward to Saturdays, and this sure feels like one, doing only some light maintenance and organization.<br />
That black and threatening water just hours ago is now an inviting blue-green and, yeah, I jumped in. Looking around under the Lib, what I saw didn’t enhance this happy “day off”: a cord, probably from a fishing trap, was wrapped around the propeller shaft. Installing new zincs at Rio Dulce, there was no room behind the prop for the <span style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span">ShaftShark,
a wicked sharp serrated spinning <span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">disk </span>designed to slice up seaweed and trap lines before they met
the screw; had we had it on it might’ve prevented this mess.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GOwvJ-Rk-G0/T6p3y1wsq0I/AAAAAAAAA7E/JlJPBLY8R6c/s1600/201204-30+05a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GOwvJ-Rk-G0/T6p3y1wsq0I/AAAAAAAAA7E/JlJPBLY8R6c/s320/201204-30+05a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Steve dove down, knife in hand, and sawed off some of the cord. Let's hope that's the end of that.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">
When my v-berth hatch is open the boat becomes a wind tunnel, airing and drying out everything below. So let’s make it laundry day, well laundry drying day anyway. Even that’s not accurate since salty clothes never really dry. But I’ve got ‘em strung up everywhere there’s a hook or a handle.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> S<span style="font-size: small;">alt</span> water applied to skin, cloth, boat - you or it will get saturated by the mist and mini-tsunamis that regularly sweep the deck. Look out, here comes another and once again yer soaked in salt water, but it don’t worsh away the old salt, only applies yet another fresh layer and so on until a fine white crust forms a Vesuvial cast around you and everything else. My cargo shorts, for example, now as dry as they’ll ever get, stand on their own. I’m training them to walk and eventually fetch beers.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> So it was a good day, a chance to take stock, relax a bit and red up the cabin and our berths. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Sat., Apr. 20, '13: Leave Isla Beata, the first time.</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Here begins <b></b><i>The ShaftShark Hostage Fleecing perpetrated by The Dastardly Denizens of the Deep Dominican.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Lovely morning, all tidied and (apparently) ship-shape, no sooner was the key turned than the smoke began. Big smoke from the engine compartment. Motor off with no choice but to sail, we left via the long, southern route around the island's three sides, probably costing an extra 3-4 hours. We might have tried cutting through the shallows between the island and mainland but decided not to chance a grounding.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Big seas as expected. The bow was always awash, midship nearly so and even the cockpit, 35’ back from the bow, got its share of water coming clear across the bimini.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> At every tack there was that island; I’m sick of seeing it. Finally we move up to the mainland going northward. There were no calm areas to be found for many miles and Steve wanted to inspect the prop shaft. We anchored in a very choppy thirty feet and down he went. What wasn’t removed of the entangled line had worked it’s way up and tightly wound round the shaft where it entered the boat, now much more difficult to deal with. We figured that hindered the torque causing the engine to cease and smoke. Down he went with knife and goggles under the rocky boat. Most of his oxygen was expended just finding a handhold so his dives were brief.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Meanwhile a panga pulled up - from nowhere, it seemed, because there were scant signs of life on shore for a couple miles in either direction. As much by hand signs as our broken <span style="font-size: small;">Spanish</span> were we able to communicate our problem. In seconds one of the three panganeers stripped down to his skivvies<span style="font-size: small;">,</span> dove in and swam over. In these waves that was no mean feat. This guy was a strapping young black stud right out of a Harry Belefonte song. Immediately sussing out the situation, that there wasn’t enough visibility, to which Steve concurred, and that we needed to go deeper where there was less frothing sand, he danced across our rocking deck like he was on land, expertly lashed together several deck lines and tossed them to the panga that proceeded to tow us out.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JAAtKRQFeLA/Ucm04tkG6jI/AAAAAAAACVo/A4AqHKT6TwU/s1600/201304-23+06+twisted+anchorCROP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="330" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JAAtKRQFeLA/Ucm04tkG6jI/AAAAAAAACVo/A4AqHKT6TwU/s400/201304-23+06+twisted+anchorCROP2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It took a lot of pound-feet to twist this</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Now anchored in 40-some even choppier feet, choppy enough to twist the 75-pound anchor into a pretzel, the two divers descended again. With the improved visibility, confident they had removed all the nylon rope and successfully running the engine with no smoke, seemingly, we’re good to go...nope! Steve did some electrical investigation and discovered the - c’mon everybody - what’s busted? Yes, the alternator. Upon hearing this the panga driver, named Negro, somehow convinced Steve to return to the cursed, barely-inhabited <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beata_Island" target="_blank">Isla Beata</a> and that there was indeed an electrician to be found.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>Groundhog Déjá vu</i>.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Back to the island I’ve now grown to hate.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> It was two hours away and Negro drove the Lib. He drove it alright, right aground, hard aground. Ugh, that gut-wrenching scrape and the sudden jerk to a stop. What ensued was a monkeyfist of pangas pulling this way, swimmers pushing that way, trying any dumb idea to break her free. It was just a freak chance we found enough water to float free and we anchored out in 20-some feet. We were immediately descended upon by everyone involved in the clusterfock and a few who weren’t. Like vermin they crawled aboard from bow, port<span style="font-size: small;">,</span> starboard and swim deck. At one count we had 16 'brothers' on board.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> As curious children would do, they peered through the portholes and hatches, crawled into the salon, played with and asked for our headlamps and binoculars. I was more than a little freaked.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>Speak in Secret Alphabets</i>.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> There was much discussion but, as far as we could tell, nothing of consequence. Negro could speak some <span style="font-size: small;">English</span>, no one else enough worth mentioning. Please just leave, leave us alone and we’ll talk in the morning.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> We were exhausted but thankful the boarding party had left. Surprisingly, the only thing we could determine missing was the old flip-flops I should have discarded months ago. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Sun., Apr. 21</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> The morning came and wow - we had drifted a mile or so out, anchor swinging free. Are we in the friggin' Twilight Zone? We got a<span style="font-size: small;"> very</span> early call from the so-called C&I agent on the population-90 Isle from hell: "I’ll be there in five minutes." Wha? We just woke up. Having drifted so far it took them more than five minutes, but out came the agent, Negro and a few unknowns. A little later more boats with more stray unknowns, again boarding like ants swarming on candy. An added element of disgust was their habit of grabbing the nose, snotting a slimy oyster into the fist and, in a stroke, sloughing off the mess on their pant legs.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> This was the price-negotiating session. We made it clear we were done with their <i>services</i> and furthermore did not want to check into DR at this location. The greedy extortionist <i>Negro</i> wanted $1000 US. Whadda ya nuts? He should pay us. After an hour or so they took Steve onshore for gawd-knows-what, maybe ransom? We had already given a half-dozen of them $20 or more. By the end of this ridiculous waiting game we ended up being fleeced for $200-something and finally got out, got <u>away</u>, maybe before noon, this time choosing the shorter route through the dire straits separating mainland DR and Isla Beata.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> They really did us dirt, taking money for nothing and wasting over a day of our time which is why we missed Brad and Patrick in Boca Chica.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i><Looking back, though "the Unwelcomes" were capable of it, I think most of them meant us no real harm but just took the opportunity to hang out on the Lib, luxurious compared to their huts and an interesting break from their dreary lives. Except for that asshole Negro.></i> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Mon., Apr. 22</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> After a rough night, it’s a rough morning...still being relentlessly pounded every which way but at last at 1440 as we motor-sail past the sprawling skyline of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santo_Domingo" target="_blank">Santo Domingo</a>, capitol of DR, the winds favor us - we’re doing 8k on a course of 78º! The sky is clear and sunny, and we’ve an easy, rolling sea.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Well, we didn’t quite make Boca Chica because it was cutting it close to sunset. So at 1800 we arrived and moored at La Caleta, just round the corner from Boca Chica. We had a hell of a time snagging that mooring line - I caught hold of it with the push-pole but there was no give and the pole was yanked from my grip. Good thing it floats. Steve’s turn; same outcome. He dove in to retrieve his lost pole and to just hand-tie our dock line to the damn ball. Phew.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>18.26.576 x 069.41.282; 86F/55%; engine hours 2747; 29.7 trip hours</i> and 210 nm from Isla Beata.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Tue., Apr. 23</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Up early with little to make ready, we motored into the sunrise, around La Caleta on the cape with the airport and into Boca Chica. <i>Arr. 0800; 10.4 nm; 1hr, 50 min. 18.26.708 x 69.37.428</i></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r16BUaCYGIw/UY_Zr5sdTaI/AAAAAAAACRQ/63Jt4tnhRs8/s1600/map-Isla+Beata+to+Boca+Chica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r16BUaCYGIw/UY_Zr5sdTaI/AAAAAAAACRQ/63Jt4tnhRs8/s640/map-Isla+Beata+to+Boca+Chica.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Before being permitted to wander far from the boat there was, of course, paperwork...and this time a dog search. Sniffing for guns ‘n rose buds, we suspect... then more paperwork. By 1330, the boat cleaned up and somewhat organized, we went for lunch on the <i><a href="http://marinazarpar.com/" target="_blank">Marina Zar Par</a></i>. Friendly Rubio, the proprietor, forced my <span style="font-size: small;">Spanish</span>. ¡Oh, Dios mio!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Of the several people we met, one, Sebastian, a young Norwegian-American rock climber, told us of his travails repairing a small boat for an Atlantic crossing.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNGpYcJSK9A/UZyhNDCJcNI/AAAAAAAACT0/etLmS9SWfoQ/s1600/201304-27+00SEB2+self+portrait.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNGpYcJSK9A/UZyhNDCJcNI/AAAAAAAACT0/etLmS9SWfoQ/s640/201304-27+00SEB2+self+portrait.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sebastian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> He and we had many misgivings about the wisdom of that passage. He later asked if he could crew with us to Puerto Rico or St. Croix. We said sure, we could use the help. </span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arialmt" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: ArialMT; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"> <span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">I don’t remember a more international mix of sailors in one place: the Danish live-aboard with his Dominican wife
who gave me a ride downtown, two fun French guys arriving from Martinique with whom
I shared beers and long conversations, Sebastian from Norway and his Italian
captain, a guy & girl from South America, the Canadian on his HR-38 (on
which he made four single-handed Atlantic crossings), a Dutch guy and his wife
from whom Steve bought a VHF mic and, I’m sure, more folks from more countries scattered round the docks.</span></span></span></span> </span></div>
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Wed., Apr. 24</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> I caught an early morning ride into Santo Domingo with a resident slip neighbor who was head<span style="font-size: small;">ing</span> that way. Spent the large part of the day wandering the historic district. </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto; color: black;">Toured </span><b><span style="color: #404040;"><a href="http://www.stjohnbeachguide.com/Fortaleza.htm"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto; font-weight: normal;">Fortaleza Ozama</span></a></span></b><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto; color: black;">,</span></span></span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "arialmt" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: ArialMT; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span> enjoyed a marching band with soldiers and officials, including the president of DR, dressed in their finest, celebrating fifty years of independence, treated myself to a fancy almuerzo at the very cool <a href="https://plus.google.com/114224028170942791635/about?gl=US&hl=en" target="_blank">Hostal Nicolas De Ovando</a> and before rush hour hired a cab for the 25-minute ride back to Zar-Par marina, somehow losing camera #4 along the way.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Thu., Apr. 25</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Preparation day. Dinghy now strapped on deck, miscellaneous readiness tasks and, yes, paperwork. We motored to the adjacent fuel dock to top off the diesel. Steve did a hull inspection and found one last bit of the nylon cord still wrapped round the prop shaft <span style="font-size: small;">that, from the heat generated by all the spinning, had melted into a single mass. It was brittle and popped right off. Later </span>Steve went into Santo Domingo<span style="font-size: small;"> while</span> Sebastian and I <span style="font-size: small;">caught Zar-Par's free ride to the <i>Ole</i> supermarket for</span> provisioning and, having spent over $50 each, earned a free ride back.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Seb moved onto the Lib.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Fri., Apr. 26</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Up early and anxious to leave, it was tortuous just killing time for our <i>despacho</i>, and the details of adding Sebastian to our crew list. So Steve’s milling around, I’m checking email and, in his third-person words...<i>"Sebastian was out to the local tienda, one which he had been regularly visiting during his seven week stay in Andres, to spend his last pocket of pesos on a cup of coffee. As he was strolling back from his last visit to town he was startled by one of the most feared things travels consider while out and about, a mugger. Two locals sped up on a little two stroke motorcycle stopping mere feet away from Sebastian and his two ship mates. The hooligan on the back jumped off the motorcycle wielding an 9-inch bowie knife swinging and jabbing every which way. Stunned and disoriented Seb and his ship mate Clifton fell backwards through the drainage ditch onto the bare Dominican street. The knife wielding mugger pressed Sebastian, approaching closer and closer every swing of his blade. Already on the ground, he stumbled to regain his footing, crawling across the road to put as much distance between himself and the shimmering knife blade. The attacker had chosen Seb - he was the one with the satchel tucked in his shorts; the fruit ready to be plucked from the tree and this crazed assailant would not leave without it. The grimacing attacker delivered one last furious thrust of his blade while at the same time reaching in to snag the satchel from Sebastian and it was done. His Norwegian passport, credit cards and other various information was zipping along in the hands of some petty crook on the back of a two stroke motorcycle. All this within 30 seconds on a slow sunny Friday morning in a place that seemed all together trust worthy. Seb was bruised from his attempted but futile escape but brandished no knife wounds or serious injuries. Luckily for Sebastian he is a dual citizen American/Norwegian passport carrying traveler and instead of being confined to waiting out a emergency passport delivery he was able to us his American pass which Steve so fortunately was holding onto to join us onward with our sail. Lesson learned, no matter how comfortable you get in a new location always keep up with your cardio, just in case."</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Then after another dog search of the Lib...</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Depart around 1100 with gentle NE wind - an uncharacteristically favorable direction. We only had to motor a short time before the winds picked up to the high teens and later stayed in the twenties. We moved eastward at between seven and nine knots for the next ten hours. Nice!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>Into The Great Wide Open</i>. My 8-to-midnight watch begins just as we pass under Isla Saona, the eastern edge of Dominican Republic. Winds are in the lower 20s and, h<span style="font-size: small;"></span>eavens to Betsy, are coming straight south - poifect! In an hour or so I’ll be entering the notorious <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mona_Passage" target="_blank">Mona Passage</a>, the open water between DR and Puerto Rico. Just off the bow a full moon is peeking up over the horizon and will stay with me through my shift.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> As soon as I took the helm, the winds increased a half dozen knots, still northerly, pushing bsp up to between seven and nine and allowing me a rhumb line to St. Croix, still a hundred-some miles ahead. That’s how it was for my four hours and although once or twice I considered reducing the jib, the only adjustment I made was letting out a bit of main to knock off the heeling. Ah, it’s rare and really nice to have healthy wind and the bow both aiming where you want and with an agreeable sea-state. The cherry on top was the clear sky and that fat yellow moon illuminating the water all around me.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> About to wake Steve for his watch, a towering vessel with ominous red and white lights came up to within a half mile before I ever saw it coming. Lemme tell ya, way out here, especially in the dark, a half mile is damn close.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> While considering a replacement for my now soiled boxers, the vessel, U.S. Coast Guard they said, hailed me and began a series of inquiries - boat name, size, registration number, captain's birth date, last port, purpose - on and on. Luckily, I had all that memorized and was able to satisfy them and avoid a boarding, which they were just about to commence. Minutes later they were a dot on the hori<span style="font-size: small;">zon.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Sat., Apr. 27</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Still good, speedy conditions as I start my sunrise shift but round about 0700 we finally lost our wind and flipped on the motor. Now it’s well past noon, the seas are smooth, the winds are still negligible and we’re still motoring around 6-7k.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Sun., Apr. 28</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> The first few hours were tough to stay alert, having discovered we’d run out of propane to b<span style="font-size: small;">oil my coffee water</span>. Then it dawned on me that we had a microwave and I brewed one wicked 8-ounce espresso.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>I am the eye in the sky</i>. As my 0300 watch begins I can finally see both the boat and the Promised Land on the same chart-plotter screen. Good tack, fair wind and decent sea-state for most of my shift. Then I hit a squally patch, the first rain at sea since Rio D. That shifted the wind dramatically to the east and our course south. Once through the squalls I thought the winds would revert, but no...and they lost strength. In comes the jib and with main centered we motor. Ah, Zephyrus is playing games with us on this final 60-mile stretch.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Before noon we see the island in the distance and by late afternoon we’re skirting the northern coast. Good ol’ St. Croix; it’s nice to see it from an ocean perspective, trying to pick out places we know - Cane Bay Dive Shop, The Beast, the condo we used during Ironman. With plenty of light remaining we negotiated the tricky buoys into Gallows Bay and at...</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <i>1800 St. Croix anchor down. 86F/61% 17.44.896 x 64.42.034 Trip 350nm; 54.4 hours</i>.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last leg - stars indicate a sleepover</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hKG2C77DYsQ/UcmzOhCtiRI/AAAAAAAACVY/X6F60MdcOQg/s1600/desert+island+-+boat-land2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hKG2C77DYsQ/UcmzOhCtiRI/AAAAAAAACVY/X6F60MdcOQg/s640/desert+island+-+boat-land2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Steve is jazzed having completed our year-and-a-half trek, some 6000 boat miles since San Francisco.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U6klpIwh_2Y/UZAeqL48CJI/AAAAAAAACSM/8S9W4B-209Y/s1600/map-Gulf+of+Mexico+THE+WHOLE+TRIP+leg1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="466" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U6klpIwh_2Y/UZAeqL48CJI/AAAAAAAACSM/8S9W4B-209Y/s640/map-Gulf+of+Mexico+THE+WHOLE+TRIP+leg1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> Me too: what an adventure<span style="font-size: small;"> it's been</span>.</span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto; color: black;">I have a new appreciation for sailors, especially
the old-schoolers without auto-pilot or chart-plotter. Cripes, just imagine Magellan circumcising the
whole earth with none of our sharp modern tools!</span></span></span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> We unstrap the dinghy, pump in some air and lower her over the side. Off we three motor into, for Steve and I, the familiar and friendly downtown Christiansted. Sunday night it’s pretty quiet so a drink and a casual stroll will have to do and it’s back to the Lib for a good night’s rest.<b> </b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Mon., Apr. 2<span style="font-size: small;">9</span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <span style="font-size: small;">A</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">nother quiet morning 'round town. We unlaxed, sipping rum, checking
potential flights home</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>and long-term layover options for the Lib.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Oddly, having been
anchored since yesterday, we were still pointing opposite of all the other
boats. We’re the closest to shore, so
maybe it’s that we’re in a current stronger than the wind. Smack in the middle of the Ironman swim
course, we knew we’d have to move in the next couple days.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Although the depth markers
indicate 17’ even right up close to shore, it seems we’re gradually drifting closer,
causing some concern. What say we
weigh anchor and move a bit farther out?
As the windlass dragged up chain, it was clear something was amiss: the
Lib was being pulled in the wrong direction!? Hold
on, let's send down the resident diver for a look.
Ah-hah! Steve discovered we were
snagged on sunken wreck.</span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Before we could make a plan a
patrol boat came zipping by – cripes, I hope they notice Steve’s little masked head
bobbing a hundred feet out. <span style="line-height: 115%;">Luckily they pulled alongside
and I informed them of the wreck below, which was news to them. As they drove away I suggested they avoid motoring
over the still-treading Steve, of whom they were also unaware.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Now the plan is for Steve to
dive down to dislodge the chain while I assist by motoring this way or that. The anchor weighs 75# plus however much his
length of chain weighs. On my end
there is 80 or 90 feet of chain, swinging at each turn. He’d dive down and tug, pop up with new
instructions, repeating several times until finally she was free.</span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<span style="line-height: 115%;"> Okay, that’s
good, but as the windlass drags the anchor <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">home it catches again, now bringing the boat toward it
and as</span></span> I’m nearly on top of
Steve, I could either disengage and drift closer to shore or plug on forward. How fast can you swim, Steve? Well, evidently fast enough ‘cause he was
well clear by the time I found a new spot to anchor.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> You can keep your hip, modern computer "artists"; I prefer a loose representational style; drawing, acrylics, oil, watercolors - media you can touch, executed by hand, not mouse, and under real light like <a href="https://www.facebook.com/marilyn.p.may" target="_blank">Marilyn Phillips May</a>, a local whose work I just discovered.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TB3QN4UdtNk/UyHNMjzON2I/AAAAAAAACX0/Z7dJ2QaPn8Y/s1600/Marilyn+Phillips+May+-+Ms.+Tilda%27s+Commerce.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TB3QN4UdtNk/UyHNMjzON2I/AAAAAAAACX0/Z7dJ2QaPn8Y/s1600/Marilyn+Phillips+May+-+Ms.+Tilda's+Commerce.jpg" width="491" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span></span></span><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">T</span>ue., Apr. 30</span></b></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Today we rented a car to tool round the east end, making stops
at our old<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>haunts: The Buccaneer for a martini (where I discovered my new favorite <a href="http://www.hendricksgin.com/past-1.aspx" target="_blank">Hendrick's Gin</a>)...</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nm4GRrRV8gY/UZyhU1OpG7I/AAAAAAAACUc/9cwIpju5wRo/s1600/201304-30+04+drinks+at+Buccaneer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nm4GRrRV8gY/UZyhU1OpG7I/AAAAAAAACUc/9cwIpju5wRo/s640/201304-30+04+drinks+at+Buccaneer.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d-ZeJyon9zQ/UZyhWHrCTVI/AAAAAAAACUk/2Qm4H5UOYCs/s1600/201304-30+05+drinks+at+Buccaneer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="386" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d-ZeJyon9zQ/UZyhWHrCTVI/AAAAAAAACUk/2Qm4H5UOYCs/s640/201304-30+05+drinks+at+Buccaneer.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NiiewvyfPRs/UZyhT-h0Z9I/AAAAAAAACUU/RrMj65n1isw/s1600/201304-30+02SEB1+buccaneer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NiiewvyfPRs/UZyhT-h0Z9I/AAAAAAAACUU/RrMj65n1isw/s640/201304-30+02SEB1+buccaneer.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I found a piano</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> ...then on to Green Cay to check out their slips,
beautifu<span style="font-size: small;">l <a href="http://www.defenderresorts.com/chenaybay/mahi%27s-seaside-seafood-bar--grill.html" target="_blank">Chenay</a></span><a href="http://www.defenderresorts.com/chenaybay/mahi%27s-seaside-seafood-bar--grill.html" target="_blank"> Bay</a>, the Divi Casino, of course, then a swim and beach
chess at their resort.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O-cI50z3mOU/UZyhYLrRw-I/AAAAAAAACUs/e4O2sgmo1js/s1600/201304-30+12+Seb_giant+chess+Divi+Resort.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O-cI50z3mOU/UZyhYLrRw-I/AAAAAAAACUs/e4O2sgmo1js/s640/201304-30+12+Seb_giant+chess+Divi+Resort.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Now refreshed, we head back to Christiansted, Steve do<span style="font-size: small;">ing</span> all the driving and I must say he did well. Usually his Mr. Magoo
style of steering a car, especially in these left-hand lanes, can be a little...well,
let’s just say you want to pay attention.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Sun down on the Lib and it’s decided that we go back ashore to revisit
our pool tables; first to Chris’ Hideaway, then to the Chocolate Barbecue Place with
their open-air tables...</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">...and finally back to the boardwalk and <a href="http://fortchristianbrewpub.com/" target="_blank">Ft. Christian Brew Pub</a> for nightcaps.</span></span></span><b><span style="color: black;"> </span></b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: black;">Wed., May. 1</span></b></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>, '13</b></span></span></b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> A beautiful windy morning blows away our mini-hangovers and we
watch the<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>Ironman swim course buoys being anchored round the harbor. The
first practice swim is this morning. I’m a bit sad to be leaving before this<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>weekend’s </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moko_jumbie" target="_blank">Moko Jumbie</a> jump-up and the triathlon I’m used to attending
every year.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> This voyage has been a challenge, an adventure. It gave me a late-in-life experience I would never have imagined. Thank you, Steve. Go eat some rice.</span></span></span></div>
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Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-23221831949368167742012-10-30T03:45:00.000-07:002015-02-21T05:57:24.189-08:00Colon, Panama to Rio Dulce, Guatemala<br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue. 10/30/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Brigitte was kind to get up and get me to the airport in time for the 0700 flight to Miami and frère Philippe again volunteered to watch the house. A layover in Miami long enough for breakfast then on to Panama City.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve arrived about an hour after I did. <span style="font-size: small;">W</span>e nixed the rental car I'd reserved <span style="font-size: small;">on pretty s<span style="font-size: small;">o<span style="font-size: small;">lid grounds that it was raining, <span style="font-size: small;">l</span>ocal drivers are nuts (based on our cab ride TO <span style="font-family: inherit;">Tocumen</span></span></span></span></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> airport months earlier) and, of course, the car cost. Not that</b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> I wouldn't have gladly accepted the challenge, world class driver that I am, but </b></span></b></span></span></span><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I didn't argue too much since I'd be the one avoiding </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">aggressive drivers in the rain while following a really rough ma</span>p to Shelter Bay. We negotiated <span style="font-size: small;">a $100 no<span style="font-size: small;">t</span> a</span></span></span></b><b><span style="font-size: small;">typicall<span style="font-size: small;">y insane taxi ride from the airport to<span style="font-size: small;"> Shelter Bay Marina which lies opposite Colon across Bahia Limón</span>.</span></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <span style="font-size: small;">Our driver was the fastest on the road<span style="font-size: small;">. This<span style="font-size: small;"> I admired and <span style="font-size: small;">appreciated, despite narrowly missing a propane<span style="font-size: small;"> truck, being</span> tired </span></span></span></span> and anxious to finish tra<span style="font-size: small;">veling</span><span style="font-size: small;">.</span></span></span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We were sure we knew where our slip was, at least which dock it was on. But, nope, not there. In the office they swore it hadn’t been moved until Steve told them to check again (and again). “Oh, si! Eet eez on dock D now”; something about needing our slip for an ugly boat they didn’t want within eyeshot of the restaurant.</span></b></span></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Mold & mildew, a lot; the ceilings were mottled with it, fixtures and furniture had a thin layer of it and the cockpit cushions were black, nearly solid black, with it. On deck, lines were greenish as were patches of the teak. On your knees, boys, and break out the brushes.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed. 10/31/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Mold & mildew, less now.</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We tried to get on the marina's bus to Colon, but only the little van was running and it was full. Got marina internet ($10/week) but it is slow except for odd hours when users are few.</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Thu. 11/1/12</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Mold & mildew, a lot less, and we hired a local gal to give the salon, galley and heads a good once-over.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Fri. 11/2/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Mike and Bryan arrive. </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>“Hi guys, good’ta see ya. On your knees, boys, and break out the brushes”. I’m sure I offered them a beer first.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sat. 11/3/12</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Boat scrub/swim in pool, repeat but under heavy rain.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sun. 11/4/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Afternoon taxi to the depressing </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>and reputedly dangerous </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>city of Colon. There were some bright spots:</b></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cRktHRkDUzY/UKPJhC2mbHI/AAAAAAAABas/QOOfycJSfbc/s1600/P1010908a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cRktHRkDUzY/UKPJhC2mbHI/AAAAAAAABas/QOOfycJSfbc/s640/P1010908a.jpg" height="595" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Washington Hotel & Casino, Colon</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> With eight arms we were able to carry plenty of provisions and traveling by cab knocked the lugging down to zero.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We were caught by a container ship passing through the Gatun locks on our return </b></span><b>trip. I enjoyed the half hour wait watching the behemoth squeeze through.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon. 11/5/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> Maintenance (engine hours 2473.7)...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> Fuel filters: drained the two primaries, replaced all three filters (all .02 micron, brown). Note - the gen-set filter is the one just below the doors; rightmost of the three as you look in.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> Gen-set oil is full but black.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> Engine oil is full and clean - did we change it more recently than Huatulco?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"> Vacuum = 0?</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Took a spin in the dinghy; the weight of the four of us exposed the leaks.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Dinghy dragged up on the dock and applied LockTite to the suspect areas.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Sea Bass dinner; remarkably bad service.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> </b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Chris and Liz of <a href="http://sailespiritu.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><i>Espiritu</i></a> and Howard and Lynn came over to the Lib with flutes, guitar, violin and tambourine to have an Irish jam for a couple hours.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue. 11/6/12</b></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>86F<span style="font-size: small;">/</span>79% Overcast, heavy morning rains that continued through the day. Some deck scrubbing until the rains increased to pounding. Internet out. We’d like to put a bead of epoxy all the way around the dinghy but the weather won’t cooperate.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Light dinner and up to the lounge to watch the blue and rediculous election coverage; more tedious and less entertaining than turtles racing. Such and such inconsequential county in such and such pre-decided state is leaning toward one of the candidates by some small percent. I do, however, like watching Erin Burnett. Oh, why won't she return my emails?</b></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed. 11/7/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 9.22 x 79.56 Overcast morning, left early for </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Portobelo for something to do while we wait for the new mainsail to be delivered.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> It</b><b style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> was a rough passage; wicked wind and waves as we motored through several squalls. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Arrived around 11:30. Motor-dinghied in and found Captain Jack’s, a hostel/bar/restaurant a few hundred feet up a hill in this tiny town. Excellent wi-fi, good burgers and plenty of salty stories from Jack.</b></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pwVWklMztk8/UKPK02HAkaI/AAAAAAAABa8/oa7tchy-JjM/s1600/P1010919a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pwVWklMztk8/UKPK02HAkaI/AAAAAAAABa8/oa7tchy-JjM/s640/P1010919a.jpg" height="512" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uvUUXHtuXqQ/UKPSAS1_kGI/AAAAAAAABcA/vigZ-IvDJWo/s1600/DSCF1581a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uvUUXHtuXqQ/UKPSAS1_kGI/AAAAAAAABcA/vigZ-IvDJWo/s640/DSCF1581a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a treat to find a table, let alone a decent one, out in the sticks of Portobelo</td></tr>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/yXrT1AHuK9Q?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eb-sdR0e8l4/UKPTRGFruqI/AAAAAAAABcY/4BCe-qilMio/s1600/P1010931a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eb-sdR0e8l4/UKPTRGFruqI/AAAAAAAABcY/4BCe-qilMio/s640/P1010931a.jpg" height="640" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cristo Negra, Portobelo</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Thu. 11/8/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Woke to steady rains. I took a panga in for more exploring and a last email check at Captain Jack’s. Stood in pounding rain for nearly an hour waiting for a panga to return to the Lib. </span>Finally I recruited some guy, not a water-taxi driver, to run me out for two<span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> bucks. We immediately hoisted anchor for Shelter Bay, probably around noon. Mostly rainy but better weather on this return trip; arrived about four. 09.22.087 x 079.57.038 82F/84%</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Fri. 11/9/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We flipped the dinghy up on the dock again, not because we found any leaks, but to apply “TipTop” liquid rubber to the entire area where the pontoons meet the metal hull...for insurance. </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>At sixty bucks a pint it had better do the job.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sat. 11/10/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Chris, Liz, Howard, Lynn and we four join for dinner. Horribly bad service and after three requests over a half hour, I could not get them to bring the bill. Frustrated, I threw down a sawbuck, went to our waitress and said, “I’ll just pay some other time”, walked off and never went back.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sun. 11/11/12 Adios Panama, finally!</b></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Espiritu’s Chris and Liz had planned to buddy-boat with us to Isla Providencia but they are having second thoughts what with the stormy conditions predicted and being kind of nervous after the lightning strike they took in Las Brisas. They did decide to go along after all.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 0625 09.22 x 79.57 85F/80% Mostly overcast but with sun breaking through as we depart Shelter Bay. By 0700 we are well clear of the breakwaters and at 0730 under 18-20k winds out goes the jib, up goes our shiny new main and off goes the engine.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We have yet to find water clear or calm enough to clean the hull. The speedometer has been clogged with sea grass and barnacles the whole time.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 1630 motor-sailing; big ten-minute squall.</b></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 1730 Put in one reef as the wind slowly increased; waves and sea pounding the </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">hell out of us and, as it turned out, continued through the night and the next day</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>.</b></span></span></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon. 11/12/12</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The incessant banging of the waves made last night the most uncomfortable on record for me. They weren’t regular in intensity, nor in angle of attack. <span style="font-size: small;">Even with big waves like these, if there is a rhythm you can get used to it. </span>I tried pointing myself in every compass direction and could not find a position that allowed me to relax at all and when I thought I’d found one, sure enough, a wave would crash over the bow and drip its cold drops through the leaky hatch and shock me wide awake. I ended up in the salon, the middle of the see-saw,<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>which was fine, and got a couple hours’ sleep before my 0400 watch.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Sails only all night.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 0500 Espiritu's engine was overheating and they decided to cut to port<span style="font-size: small;">,</span> straight for Isla San Andres. At sun up we decided to join them after our two tough days at sea.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 1745 12.34 x 81.41 80F/69% We arrive at San Andres.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The really shallow spots in the entry channel (as low as 7.5’, which is about what we draw) made it difficult to stay laid into the heavy wind while the boys dropped the main.</b></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We spotted Espiritu and picked an anchor point, then another and another as we couldn’t get the hook to take. Finally after a half-dozen abortive attempts, it stuck and we could weather the intermittent mini-squalls under the bimini's cover rather than on deck fussing with the windlass. It was well dark by this time. </b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue. 11/13/12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> In contrast, last night was one of the most comfortable nights I’ve spent on board; a strong breeze blew down through the hatch, cool enough that I didn’t </b></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">need either of the corner fans and there were no punishing waves smacking the hull to jar me awake. As far as I could tell, the boat hadn’t moved all night.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Small comforts at nighttime around me and in reach, as is everything in the berth, are books and reading glasses, a bottle of water and Kleenex, pencils and paper. No<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>cin<span style="font-size: small;">i</span>cero<span style="font-size: small;">s</span> since smoking is for on deck only. But it’s not so hard to get there through my overhead hatch.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> A fan and the little reading light over my shoulder are so familiar, I just reach for them without looking.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> It was a good night.</span></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> So, this morning, still nicely settled at anchor we dinghied in at 9:00 to meet Chris and Liz and to complete customs and immigration paperwork, which was done conveniently right there in the small marina.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Unlike Panama, Columbia doesn’t use U.S. dollars so after several tries we found a bank to convert some cash to pesos. ($1=~1770p)</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Back to Nene’s Marina, only to be told we were anchored too near the container docks and needed to move. This was not good news as in this harbor it is hard to find a good grip on the bed. We chose to deal with that unappealing task later and took to touring the town of Porto Andres on foot.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Back on board, a brief underwater inspection revealed barnacles encrust<span style="font-size: small;">ing</span> the entire hull, rudder and all the rest of Lib's "down there" parts. They cannot be picked off by hand; t<span style="font-size: small;">his</span>'ll require some heavy-duty work to remedy. But first to reset the anchor well clear of the shipping docks.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> During the tedious process of holding into the wind, dropping anchor then backing gently to test the grip, repeat and repeat, several mini-squalls made everything just a little more difficult. Steve donned mask and flippers to eyeball the anchor’s position and eventually dove down to set it by hand. While at this heroic occupation out of nowhere a wicked squall blew in. I insisted he get aboard and he did, reluctantly; good thing, too - the winds hit 35k accelerating the heavy rain so it felt like hail. </b></span></b></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> After half an hour it passed, Steve dove in again and jammed the anchor into the stickiest sand he could find. Periodically he or I took the shallow dive down to see if the anchor had shifted since it’s hard to tell from on board.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed. 11/14/12</b></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 0630 84F/69% Sunny, windy, not a drop of rain all night and the boat hasn’t drifted </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">at all</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>.</b></span></span></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 1000 After my swim we dinghied in to exchange currency, get online and check out of the port. Checking in and out of ports is required even within a given country. I want to rent a buggy of some kind to explore the island as we (think) we are leaving tomorrow.</b></span></b></b><br />
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> I worked online for an hour at "Coffee Break" then rented a golf cart for the day. Steve was adamant about scraping the hull; I couldn’t coax him into taking the afternoon off to tour the small island so Mike, Bryan and I took off feeling only a little guilt.</b></span></b></b><br />
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> No spectacular adventures to relate but as we followed the coast, the changes in complexion of the beach were beautiful...</b></span></b></b><br />
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<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Di2_uL4SkY/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/0Di2_uL4SkY?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/0Di2_uL4SkY?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> ...from softly lapping with nearly no waves to rough and choppy for adventuresome sail-sportsmen to violently crashing surf over volcanic and coral shores you’d only view, not venture upon.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> When renting a cart I suggest first insuring its power. Twice we tried to cross the island rather than continuing to circle it and both times were denied. As the elevation increased our torque just wasn’t up to the task and we ground to a halt, coasted backwards and went back down, defeated, to the amusement of the locals watching us.</b></span></b></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indigenous fauna at Gordo's Snapper Cave</td></tr>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The day ended in a rendezvous with Steve for a flip flop-textured, cardboard-like kingfish meal at Miss Celia's and some final provisioning.</b></span></b></b><br />
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Thu. 11/15/12</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Up at 0600 to find the boys already scrambling round the deck in preparation to depart.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> This was a day easily as rough as the two to San Andres, equally peppered with strong-winded squalls and, again, winds blowing almost directly from our destination.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 900;">We noticed the 12-volt system was not charging. This</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> would be a particularly bad time to lose our engine since with it off we would need to tack radically to make even small forward progress - and the sun was setting quickly. To add insult to our injury, in this final hour we were hit with the strongest and largest squall of the trip cutting visibility to a few hundred yards. </b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Fortunately the engine held out, the squall dissipated and passed just as we entered the southern channel of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Providencia_Island" target="_blank"><i>Isla de Providencia</i></a>. High winds and shallow waters made for a dicey twilight entrance. </b></span><b>Once into the anchorage all went calm and in ten feet of water the anchor took on the first try. We laid down a whopping fifty feet of chain, giving us a more than adequate 5:1 ratio. 1830 13.22 x 81.22.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Meanwhile Espiritu, in periodic contact, was still seven or eight miles out in those very rough seas and 20-25k winds. Their engine would run a short time then conk out and they were quite concerned about sailing into the channel. We readied the dinghy with lights, gloves and long lines to help her turn if necessary. Eventually she came into view and Steve and Bryan motored out to play pied piper. Mike and I </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>and the folks from Talaria </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>watched from the safety of our ship as first the little, bobbing tub broke through the dark, dutifully followed by the towering Espiritu round this buoy and that to safety; pretty good entertainment. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Fri. 11/16/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> About to head for the administrative office on the dock, we were radioed to check in with a few others on Captain Dan’s boat. One of his three-woman crew had a family emergency and needed to be processed pronto so she could be flown back to Chile as soon as possible.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><b>Every place - house, boat or cardboard box - must have a black hole. In a house the usual victim gone missing is that one sock. Here, on Liberation II, it’s pens. There were several on board when we left in June and I brought a dozen more at the beginning of this leg. Already it’s a hunt whenever we need one. I’m convinced that Bryan has hidden them all.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> I’m tellin’ ya, had it had been served in a Captain D’s on styrofoam plates with no description it would still have been the best seafood meal I’d had in maybe forever. It was like this: Steve went off to run and we three wandered on. I asked a group of weathered guys hanging by the roadside, “Por favor, donde esta una buen restaurante?”. “We speak English (dumb gringo)”, and pointed up the <span style="font-size: small;">hill</span>. “Eet’s by a French mon; ring de bell.” The bell hung from a stick between two pieces of old fence.</b></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> I saw in a woman in the yard and rang. “Come in”, she said. “Bonjour”, I said. “I don’t speak French”, she said and we walked on through</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>. There were just two tables and the one she had been using she quickly cleared and covered with a clean tablecloth.</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> “Something to drink?” “Sure...whisky?” “I’ll go see” as she walked next door returning with a bottle of rum to which I agreed. She made a <i>ron con limon</i> concoction that was too bitter for my taste. Some freshly crushed guava cut through the lime nicely. No point in a menu, husband Olivier explained; he free-dives with spear guns each morning and never knows what he’ll bring back. Today it is parrotfish and whopping king crab legs. We went for the parrotfish which came gently seasoned with butter, herbs and garlic. Sides were mashed potatoes from Costa Rica, white rice and green salad with peas under Italian dressing - all very fresh and prepared a few feet from where we sat. The <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">entrée</span></i></b></span></span>, a generous portion, was to perfection: flavorful, flaky and moist. We were all well pleased.</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Anparo is Colombian and “Olivo” French; both speak English well. They were happy to have conversation and to tell their story and seemed to enjoy my awkward wordplay.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> A strong coffee and cigarette punctuated the end of the meal and it was nearly 2:30, time to meet Steve at the dinghy dock about a mile down the road.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We hunted down Mr. Bush, the island’s “facilitator”, a man of many hats who owns a sizable store, handles the island’s check-in and -out, may be the mayor and in general is the man to see and be seen with. Proud of his position, he made it known that the <i>ambassador</i> of Chile had called him <i>personally</i> regarding the Chilean girl's emergency. He promised to send someone out to look at our alternator in the morning. (Never happened).</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> There is no eatery or bar with internet; you can drink or 'net, but not at the same time. Come to think of it, we’ve seen no bars at all; the two drinks I had were at lunch and in a supermercado. Still, it’s charming, well-kept and friendly and many more locals speak English than on San Andres.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We wandered to get the lay of the small town, checking prices for future provisioning and scooter rentals. About to buy a postcard, I inquired about<span style="font-size: small;"> stamps<span style="font-size: small;">;</span> t</span>here are none on the island. We didn’t do much provisioning but made mental notes on what was available. The produce was generally crappy and we learned that on Wednesdays the fresh stuff arrives.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The boys spent hours this evening brainstorming over the alternator.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve spent the morning on the high wire replacing bulbs.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Half past twelve, following a radio invitation, we dinghied to the Fish and Farm Coop's “<a href="http://vianica.com/go/specials/2-nicaraguan_food.html" target="_blank">Rondon</a>” meal. Neh, should<span style="font-size: small;">'ve</span> ordered simple fish. All went for a hike up the road, except me; I went down the mile or so to Don Olivo’s to sip rum and smoke with my new-found friends. Steve and Mike picked me up via dinghy and we packed it in for the night.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Rondon" woks</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sun. 11/18</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Nice breeze and no rain all night. Pretty blustery this morning. 84F/76%. Overboard for a morning </b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="es"><span class="hps">baño</span></span> and to shore for some internet.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Nope, no internet on Sundays. </span>We waited out the showers, that continued through the morning, under trees and building overhangs<span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;">. Steve met with a Mr. Ping to arrange an alternator inspection in the morning and with nothing else to do, we wandered Santa Catalina, a small island to the northwest connected to Isla Providencia by a <span style="font-size: small;">200</span>-meter floating bridge. There we found an open restaurant. A bit early in the day for such a big meal, but my fish, Steve’s pork and our seafood soup and plantain were all very good. A walk along the <span style="font-size: small;">tiny</span> island's south coast followed and on up to the statue of the Virgin Mary and what remained of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Morgan" target="_blank">Captain Morgan’s</a> defensive wall, then back to the <span style="font-size: small;">western</span> tip where one of Morgan’s cannons still sat.</span></b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hello? Please speak up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We took a close 2nd in the <i>Battered Bimini Awards</i></td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Steve and Bryan dinghied over twice to get diesel, 10 gallons per trip, which we <span style="font-size: small;">syphoned</span> into the tank.</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Several swims ensued, a few rounds of blackjack and early to bed.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon. 11/19</b></span></b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 82F/80% Very blustery with squalls.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Taking advantage of a lull in the rain we all went to shore, alternator in hand...the mountain to Mohammed approach. Mr. Bush and Mr. Ping having failed us, we now went in search of an O’Leario Robinson, reputed to be an accomplished electrician.</b></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The military presence in town had increased substantially; this was the day the dispute between Nicaragua and Colombia over possession of San Andres, Isla Providencia, Santa Catalina and a few smaller cays was to come to a head.</b></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Having </b></span></b><span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">tracked down and consulted with O’Leario,</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> we hung around until our internet shop opened, nearly an hour late. I found a nice little place for desayuno.</b></span></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Mid-afternoon we buzzed over to Don Olivo’s place. Available today was tuna, black crab and one </b></span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">last </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>portion of parrotfish, with sides of rice, salad and </b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"><b>properly-prepared</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> plantain. The first meal was no fluke; this was just as good. As we finished up a terrific squall developed holding us at bay for a half hour of rum, coffee and conversation.</b></span></span></b><br />
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue. 11/20</b></span></b></b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The number of cruisers at anchor here has doubled to ten since we arrived.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> A cruise ship appeared and anchored at the mouth of the harbor but all day we saw none of her tenders shuttling crew nor tourists onto shore. A couple pangas did make runs back and forth, but with no passengers; probably delivering basic supplies.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Our first attempts at designing water catchers...and the first time it hasn’t rained.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed. 11/21</b></span></b></b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> A second warship is anchored in the mouth of the harbor.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Our whole crew took shore leave in search of internet and with hopes of finding our alternator back in working condition. We found internet. Evidently the alternator had to be sent to San Andres and the ferry only runs on certain days.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We rented four scooters for four hours (35,000p ea.) and circled the island making stops at shops and vistas along the way.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<b><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mike and I, the road-less-traveled guys, broke away and discovered the hidden “<i><span style="font-size: small;">Roland Roots Bar</span></i>”, tucked away in Bahia Manzanillo.</span></b></span></b></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> We later caught up to the others, moored to a table at a little roadhouse, having ice cream. Then on to Almond beach, which was down a quarter-mile-long, steep footpath, ending at a little </span>shack where young entrepreneur Delmar Robinson made<span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> us “Coco Locos”.</span></b></span></b></b><br />
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<b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> From there (after I pled old-age and got a ride back up to the street on Delmar‘s motorcycle) Mike and I wound up at Don Olivo’s for coffee while Steve and Bryan took the opportunity to shuttle another ten gallons of diesel to the dinghy.</b></span></b></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Tulie" and Mike<b><br /></b></span></td></tr>
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<b><b><b><b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> After dark Steve and I went back ashore to disco down, which translated to a few games of pool and a long, dark walk to a non-existent club.</b></span></b></b></b></b></b><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Not a drop of rain all day, Murphy's Law</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 900;"> for us having</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> our rain-catchers in place.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Thu. 11/22</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span> Thanksgiving</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> And not a drop of rain all night. Steve and Mike collected another 10 gal. diesel.</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Thanksgiving dinner at the Fish and Farm Co-op. When I saw the <span style="font-size: small;">dry </span>slices of turkey being served I switched my order to fish, which was very good.</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Whining to one of the employees about bad internet connections in town, he loaned me an “internet stick” for our few remaining days that worked great.</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Fat and happy, nice and dry we struck out for the Lib in the dark night. It was really fetchy and we got soaked to the bone, but were in good moods as we tied up.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> They don’t show it, but this must be really frustrating for Mike and Bryan. We were stuck for the first week in Shelter Bay, had some tough sailing days getting to Isla Providencia and now we’ve been stuck here for over a week and their time to leave is approaching fast.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Fri. 11/23</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> The first fully sunny day; there will be swimming.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sat. 11/24</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Another 8 gallons of diesel, we're now pretty full and adding 40 gallons of tap water, <span style="font-size: small;">that's</span> just over half full. Chris, Liz & we four shot pool for a couple hours and had a whole grilled “Deep Snapper” at Don Olivo’s; 20,000p each.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anparo prepping the plantain leaf</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love (and envy) these two</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> With our departure date, and so Mike and Brian’s flight date, still undecided the possibility arose that they would fly from here or San Andres. With the ship in shape, it’s Chris Parker’s morning SSB weather threats holding us back.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sun. 11/25</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> We briefly attended a li’l cruiser’s get-together over on Santa Catalina. I played "Mexican Train" with a few of the ladies. No, it's not THAT, you pervs. It's a game with white dominoes that have images instead of pips. Mike took a LONG walk 'round the island.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>The townsfolk held a march protesting Nicaragua's grab for San Andrés' and Providencia's control over their surrounding waters. Plenty of cops and military presence. The previous week the International Court of Justice had upheld Colombia's sovereignty over the islands but expanded Nicaragua's maritime territory, surrounding and impinging upon (according to Olivo) the islands to a mere 12 mile radius. I asked him and he said he preferred the islands to stay Colombian; things were fine as is.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Okay, we’ll probably leave tonight or tomorrow, striking out for Roatan and possibly Rio Dulce from where Mike and Bryan will fly home.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Mon. 11/26</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Last night we had the first rain in almost a week; pretty substantial, but it didn’t last long.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Today I was in and out of the water all day, probably five times. We got some late-day heavy rains. Wrapping things up in anticipation of our departure, maybe later today, we returned the internet stick, bought ten more gallons of diesel, a couple drinks and <i>au revoirs</i> with Olivo and Anparo and lastly some friendly pool with Espiritu. I snagged one final case of Heineken and in the steady rain we returned to the mother ship.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> 1730 Depart Isla Providencia under double reef and half our jib. 83F, 83%. One last big squall bid us adieu as we cleared the shallow bahia and got out into the open sea.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Rough going; barely possible to move around safely in my berth, let alone sleep. A move to the salon was little improvement and with barely a wink of sleep I’m called for my 4:00am watch.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Tue. 11/27</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Uneventful day, we’re all tired from random sleep patterns.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Wed. 11/28</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Awoke to a pea soup overcast, calm seas and nearly no wind, and what there was was coming straight at our nose.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Sunrise always seems to come early at sea and before six, over my shoulder, a glowing shone through the otherwise deep gray cast over the remaining 359 degrees. This was short-lived as two squalls developed behind us and masked any sign of morning.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Both storms moved faster than us and steadily gained. As if we were their target [now 8 mi. away] they matched our course perfectly. They must be driven by higher altitude wind currents because all our windicators showed headwind, yet the two storms were clearly approaching our ster<span style="font-size: small;">n</span>. By this time Steve was up and we got well prepared, now tying off lines [7 mi. away], now closing hatches and portals. [6 mi.] These were textbook squalls; picture perfect and snarling, snapping at our heels. [5 mi.] There will be rain! Ah-hah, I’ll collect it. [4 mi.] As a seasoned squall-spotter, I knew there was little time for preparation and set to work with a makeshift funnel and section of garden hose. [3 mi.] This contraption I bungeed to where I guessed would offer a fair runoff from the bimini. [2 mi.] The hose led down into the largest container we had, maybe three gallons, on the cockpit floor. [1 mi.] The squall hit with scant prelude and by the bucketful. Too bad I misjudged where the runoff would be and, hunkered in the relative dry of the hard dodger, watched while nothing filled the jug. Fifteen minutes tortured by watching the wasted water was enough and unraveling the bungees, I climbed out to hold the funnel where it needed to be. In the early stages of hypothermia I was able to fill the first jug almost faster than the boys could replace it with a fresh one, and another and another until, in under a half hour, all were topped off - probably ten gallons in all. With the last, I washed away the accumulated salt from my hair, ears and face and easily refilled it. Voila! If we’d’ve had another hundred gallon container I’m sure we could have filled it because once the squall was on top of us its winds boosted our speed to match the storm’s and for the next couple hours we sat dead center, the pounding storm and boat chugging along together toward the tip of Honduras.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Eventually the cell dissipated, the rain stopped and the seas calmed somewhat. Passing the eastern-most part of Honduras we turned sharply to port, now going nearly due west with calm seas and barely a breeze. Where are those easterly trade winds when you need 'em?</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Just before nightfall the jib and main were furled and strapped for the duration. At speed, we would arrive in Roatan at 3:00 am, not ideal timing to suss out a new port, so there is no hurry between now and sunrise. </b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Thu. 11/29</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span> (clocks back an hour)</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> I think the outbreak of sudden calm woke me at 0200; Steve had cut our speed to less than three knots in order to lollygag along our way, paralleling the now visible island lights of Roatan. At this low speed and without sails the boat would be difficult to manage were there any wind, waves or current, but there are none and we slog on. And it’s downright chilly; it’s been a long time since long pants and a shirt.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> With the morning glow we headed for land, Little French Cay. Two of the three openings to the small anchorage had clear signs of a reef - small breaking waves. We tried the third. Poorly marked, we crept closer until the bed was visible. I had just taken a breath to yell, “Back Up!”, ‘cause it went from visible bottom to way too much detail fast when, thunk, we hit. Even at two knots it’s quite a shock, especially with this being the first time our keel has met ground. A plume of mud billowed from under the bow and a small cloud of bluish smoke issued from somewhere aft. Had the screw hit something, too? Steve slammed into reverse to avoid a full-on grounding, then backed up gently to loop around into more water. We explored the other two openings, lying between islands parallel to shore: no and no way Jose. Chris on SSB, still in Isla Providencia, got us in touch with Rick and Rosanna of S/V <i>Tension Reliever</i> via VHF. They were already anchored in French Cay Harbor and talked us through the narrows.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> 16.21 x 86.26 Safely anchored we went ashore to check the amenities and learn where and how to check in to Honduras. Fifteen bucks a week gets us showers, use of the (paid) laundry, internet (rare), bus rides to Eldon’s Grocery, etc. </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>A taxi to Customs and Immigration and the Port Captain’s office in the aptly-named downtown Coxen Hole got us to a padlocked office. We were told to either wait there three hours or go to the airport to find Vicky, the immigration official, who evidently floats between the two locations. Steve pressed the issue with the Port Captain and actually made some headway, securing our exit form (before we’d even officially “entered”) and cruising permit which allows us a fifteen-day stay.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Light-headed, I insisted on a snack, had at a nearby taquería. A helpful employee hailed us a cab and we’re off to the airport. At the airport Customs and Immigration we were told to go back downtown. Okay, enough with the runaround. Again Steve pressed the issue and we were finally directed to the nebulous Vicky, soaking us for twenty American for something and flat out refusing to give a receipt. Fine, whatevah. Taking this opportunity to confirm and buy their tickets, Mike and Bryan discovered the 5:00 pm flight had been cancelled and had to take the 11:00 am instead; either would have arrived at SFO at the same time meaning they had six hours to kill somewhere en route. Furthermore, “Oh, sorry, we don’t take credit cards or checks” - they’d have to pay tomorrow. Jesus Murphy, what a convoluted monkey fist we're trying to unravel. A 150 lempira ($7.50) taxi back to where we left the dinghy then on to the Lib...</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>...BUT NO - wild and crazy guys that we are, we swung over to <a href="http://littlefrenchkey.com/frechys44.htm" target="_blank"><i>Frenchy's 44</i></a> island, a lovely, well-kept oasis - one of the islands we had in the early morning perused for a channel entrance. Tiki bars, grillhouse and shallow beaches of transplanted white sand. We sunned and relaxed for a couple hours over a few rum-runners.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anti-glare iScreen</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> At five-ish on into the little Lilu Dock for a cruiser gathering over pizza and beer.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Fri. 11/30</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Are we on land? I awoke at sunrise to a dead-flat, windless morning; the sea is glass and the only sounds are the faint rumble of waves over the reef and the vocal competition of roosters on shore.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> As the boys arise and start gathering up for their flight home, a seemingly innocuous cloud approaches. “A little shower”, I sez, “let’s plug the holes”.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>By the time they boarded the dinghy there was a steady rain. With no room for me among all the bags ‘n bodies, I bid them bon voyage. An hour later Steve’s not back and the rain is torrential; I can’t even see a hundred meters away to tell IF he was coming back. Unfortunately he hain’t got no handheld to let me know. I figure he’s holed up somewhere ‘till this passes.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> A month of salt and sweat made laundry an imperative, accomplished this afternoon while Steve did a big walkabout round this end of Roat<span style="font-size: small;">á</span>n.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sat. 12/1</b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Steve took the free bus to Eldon’s Grocery and I stayed at Lilu’s, taking advantage of a rare internet connection. We lunched at Frenchy's 44. Steve later did fuel provisioning, 8 gallons diesel and 2 gallons gas. We went to the evening pot luck at Lilu’s but weren’t allowed our offering of wine so we left without eating. Hey, it’s Saturday, and we’ve been wanting to check out Fantasy Island. The drink special was a “Blue Lagoon”, not good - we switched to basic tequila and rum. The first monkey I’ve seen outside a zoo was hanging out in the trees outside the bar. Steve offered him MY drink but he only took the straw.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> A guatusa (big muskrat-looking thing with no tail) was wandering nonchalantly on the grounds.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> About to leave, we saw a troupe of <a href="http://www.southernbelize.com/hist_garifuna.html" target="_blank"><i>Garifuna</i></a> dancers and drummers gathering and stayed for their performance. </b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Afterwards, a few games of pool <span style="font-size: small;">sharing</span> the worst stick in the world, and the only one they had. We considered not mis-cueing a good shot. In fact, both of us (and me twice) scratched on the break - something neither of us had done since the 1950s.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sun. 12/2/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> With four indicator lights on each system, we assumed both were fully charged and hadn’t run the gen-set or engine since Friday. Well, now there wasn’t enough juice to start either. A jump-start from Wayne’s (<a href="http://svzeppelin.wordpress.com/about/" target="_blank">Zeppelin</a>) portable battery charger got us started and Steve went window-shopping for 12-volt batteries.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> In the afternoon I jumped in for the first time, doing some scraping & adjusting the snubbers. Visibility about five feet. There was a stray mooring line, still weighted down, floating just on the surface with no buoy, a perfect trap to trash a screw. Deciding not to attach a temporary buoy, Steve dove down and lopped off its top twelve feet.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Mon. 12/3/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Steady rain this morning as Espiritu arrives in French Cay Harbor, around 0700. Battery-hunting, Steve was gone not much more than an hour when he returned, sharing the dinghy with a shiny new 12-volter. Installed after some difficulty, it seems to have done the trick as we’re holding a 13+ volt charge.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> As much as he loves to pitch things over the side insisting, “The dolphins like to play with it”, I guess he draws the line at batteries that weigh more than dolphins. He is now headed for a recycle center where they pay three lempiras per pound for batteries. At maybe eighty pounds he’ll get twelve or thirteen bucks. Meanwhile I’m going overboard to dislodge a few more barnacles.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lilu's Dock</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lilu's owner's boat caught fire and exploded.</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> One very early morning we noticed a few new neighbors anchored in the harbor. <span style="font-size: small;">It wasn't</span> likely that they came in through the shallows at night, so where'd they come from? Rick and Rosanna of <a href="http://sailingtensionreliever.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/winds-begin-to-calm-and-i-wonder-did-the-world-end-yesterday/" target="_blank">Tension Reliever</a>, usually on top of <span style="font-size: small;">current events, radioed us to see if we had the scoop. It turns out they left their slips at Lilu's dock in the middle of the night. Kay, of <a href="http://www.sailingvalentina.com/Pages/SV%20Valentina/SVValentina.htm" target="_blank">Valentina</a>, which the night before had taken the slip right beside the dock owner's big blue boat explained: "<i>I woke up from bright orange flickering lights flooding the berth through the portholes. Just afterwards we heard a big "boom" and immediately left the slip, the blue boat</i><span style="font-size: small;"><i> in flames and just before its mast crashed down right where we had been tied up</i>."</span></span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> So, what is flammable on a boat - gas, diesel, propane? And what could ignite it? Were the deckhands stoned and lighting farts?</span></span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span> </span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Tue. 12/4/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> While Steve went to town for final departure paperwork I went to the Iguana Farm. There, since 1980, owner Sherman Arch has provided a safe home for the lizards and at last estimate there were 4000. They could walk out if they wanted to but don’t - plenty of food and safe from the locals who eat them. The grown iguanas are too spoiled to make it on the outside but Sherman transplants the hatchlings around Isla Roatan.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Steve came back fed so I went over to “<i>Frenchy's Island</i>” and treated myself to a <i>camarón y lango<span style="font-size: small;">sta</span></i> late lunch.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> At sunset we stripped off the sail cover and generally got things in order for a daybreak departure.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Wed. 12/5/12</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> 0630 We’re off, SLOWLY and in zig-zags to avoid the wicked shallow spots. Before 0700 we’re off and running.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Now, thirteen hours later, the wind is and has been negligible all day and the seas are rolling just enough to make you check your steps. We tacked a few times, more out of boredom than strategy. Now rhumblining to Rio Dulce.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Curly" has been with us since at least Providencia.</td></tr>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;"> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif";"></span></span>Steve made some horribly<span style="font-size: small;"> insensitive</span> jokes about Curly the lizard, suggesting he had
“pitched him in” for a man-overboard drill.
I did not find it funny. Last we
saw he was slithering into Guatemala, <span style="font-size: small;">easily </span>avoiding the check-in process.</span></b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Thu. 12/6</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> 1000 Anchor down outside Livingston Bay, the mouth of the Rio Dulce. The rumors of very shallow water are true. We’re the better part of a mile off shore and it’s only twelve feet. Steve arranged for a panga to guide us into the Bay and to help us clear “the bank”, if necessary, and it seems that help is <i>de rigueur</i>; most boats get grounded. We did, too - before grounding our last reading was 5.5’. <span style="font-size: small;">To <span style="font-size: small;">s</span>et us free w</span>hat they did was run a line from the top of our 63' mast and pull from the side until we’re hiked way over, nearly to the cap rail, tilting and raising the keel just enough, maybe a foot, to clear the mud.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Having crossed the bank we anchored and dinghied in to complete Customs and Immigration. <span style="font-size: small;">After which, d</span>ead on our feet, back to the boat to crash.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Fri. 12/7/12</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjdWTy-R2HM/UMKro3C0uzI/AAAAAAAABws/zkTes9kBLGY/s1600/12-7+P1020365+morning+fishermen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjdWTy-R2HM/UMKro3C0uzI/AAAAAAAABws/zkTes9kBLGY/s640/12-7+P1020365+morning+fishermen.JPG" height="498" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning fishermen, Livingston Bay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cxCGDH_ShPs/UMKrsP5551I/AAAAAAAABw0/GSri3MZAvI8/s1600/12-7+P1020372+visiting+egret.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cxCGDH_ShPs/UMKrsP5551I/AAAAAAAABw0/GSri3MZAvI8/s640/12-7+P1020372+visiting+egret.JPG" height="436" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pointing toward Rio Dulce</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Up and into the Rio Dulce proper by 0630. A welcome departure from the long straight rhumb lines at sea, the Dulce snakes into <span style="font-size: small;">Guatemala's</span> interior calling for manual steering all the way.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Someone accurately described going up this river as like going back in time; quiet, shadowy, thick with huge vines and trees towering over the water; thatch-roofed huts and dugout canoes.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Just a mile from the final destination of this leg of the journey, Fronteras, sure enough, we grounded out again in about five feet of water. <br />
After an hour or so trying to drag it this way and that with the dinghy we were about to give up. Along came a panga with a 70-horse and had us in the clear in no time. If someone you don't like is planning a trip up the Rio Dulce, tell them to head for 15º 40' x 88º 57'.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"> I wish we'd had one more crew so I’d</span><span style="line-height: normal;">'</span><span class="Apple-style-span">ve been free to
take pictures of our travails</span><span style="line-height: normal;"> - especially when they tipped the boat in Livingston Bay.</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span">
Approaching the town of Fronteras, tired but happy to be out of the pluff mud, Steve VHF'ed down his list of
potential extended-stay marinas and as Monkey Bay was the first and only to
respond, that's where we headed. So Steve is peering over the deck</span><span style="line-height: normal;"> to insure everything is deeper than</span><span class="Apple-style-span"> 6’2” and I'm at the helm. On VHF the </span><span style="line-height: normal;">voice from </span><span class="Apple-style-span">Monkey Bay Marina, for some reason, asked us to come in aft-backwards. I said, “Sure”, knowing Cappy had never
backed into a slip. Hey, it’s now or
never. </span></b></span></span><br />
<div style="display: inline !important;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> I’d seen him practice backing up once or twice, to get the feel of the effect of what’s called “prop-wash”. I don’t know why it doesn’t occur, or isn’t noticeable, motoring forward, but in reverse, with the screw now spinning opposite, the stern pulls a bit starboard and throws off the idea that the boat will just go straight back.</span></span></span></span></span></b></b></span></div>
<div style="display: inline !important;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> I figure if he’s got an ounce of seaman in him, he can back that aft up.</span></span></span></span></span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></span></span></span></b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></b></span><b style="line-height: normal;">Steve nicely nestled the Lib, <span style="font-size: small;">in reverse</span>, into our
slip.</b></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> 20-some miles
inland, Monkey Bay Marina rates <span style="font-family: inherit;">high</span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>on my<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>"marina<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>scale"...why?...because although it has no bar, restaurant or fuel
services, its reasonable slip fees, laid back and friendly peeps and the amenities
it does have are commendable: warm and roomy outdoor but private showers<span style="font-size: small;">, fully-stocked h</span>onor-system beer
and pop cooler, potable deck water,<span style="font-size: small;"> WiFi,</span> DIY laundry, a big community fridge/freezer and free use of the marina's two launches - all in a lovely, quiet,
tropical setting. Quiet ‘cept for
Spice, the lovable but noisy dock dog.
</b></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">
<b><span style="line-height: 115%;"> Jen (pron. “yen”), the brand-new Danish
manager of the marina, went out of his way to give us the grand tour, not just
of the marina and surrounding grounds but also a boat ride to town, pointing
out banks, mercados, bus stations and generally the lay of the land. We took him to lunch at Bruno’s Marina.</span></b></span></span><br />
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;"> In the morning we dinghied across
the river to the weekly swap-meet at Mario’s Marina. A lively event with plenty of boat parts and
accessories, but I only bought some jewelry a little girl was selling. Then on down the mile or so to town to
figure how to get to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pedro_Sula" target="_blank">San Pedro Sula</a> </span></b><b><span style="line-height: 115%;">(Honduras), having already booked our flights. We ruled out the two bus companies – their
once-daily, five-hour trips would arrive too late.
Some haggling with taxis got their price down from $400 to $150, to
which we tentatively agreed but didn’t commit.
The day before, a pretty expatriate shop owner offered to take our
picture and today, passing her shop, I thought that with her being bilingual and friendly, it couldn’t hurt to ask about transportation. Yes, she knew and put us in touch with an
acquaintance who had made that drive for her.
$140 was agreed upon and we’d meet at Bruno’s, 6am.</span></b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;"> Since San Francisco we've <span style="font-size: small;">sailed</span> some 4,600 <span style="font-size: small;">miles and, depending on our <span style="font-size: small;">route, have about 1,700 to go.</span></span></span></b></span></span></div>
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Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-63252385836882229892012-04-29T14:00:00.000-07:002015-02-21T05:44:05.227-08:00Huatulco to Panama<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HI5EJJ62nOg/T6qa62FAufI/AAAAAAAAA98/ZOlc5GCdXE0/s1600/map-mexico1+leg4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HI5EJJ62nOg/T6qa62FAufI/AAAAAAAAA98/ZOlc5GCdXE0/s640/map-mexico1+leg4.jpg" height="486" width="640" /></a></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sun 29th April, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The cab came on schedule at 4am for my 5:25 flight to Charlotte.</span></b></span></b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TZHtPsX7Fv8/T6p35deEAlI/AAAAAAAAA-M/guSTeFgXvWg/s1600/201204-29+03a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TZHtPsX7Fv8/T6p35deEAlI/AAAAAAAAA-M/guSTeFgXvWg/s400/201204-29+03a.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> On the Charlotte-Houston leg I overheard a Mexican women say she was going to Huatulco and told her I was, too. She had a screaming 3-year-old girl and a cute, talkative little boy, Esteban, maybe 5. He borrowed my colored pencils and paper. This was her first flight and even with two young children she handled it quite well. Her english was weak and in Houston she got confused so I </b></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">slowed down and, gay caballero that I am, </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>escorted them to the gate. </b></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">Mi amigos were there waiting and had been for several hours after their early flight from LAX.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Nice that our flight to Huatulco was nearly empty so we could sit together.</b></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Cab HUX-Marina Chahue 370 pesos.</b></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We fell upon one very dusty boat.</b></span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon 30th April, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Motored into the harbor to scrape the hull, replace a screw in the bow thruster grill and install the Shaft-Shark (a wicked-sharp blade descended from dark age torture devices) a few inches forward of the prop that will slice up any nets or hard kelp we might cross (or Steve's hand should he grab it, which he did).</b></span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GOwvJ-Rk-G0/T6p3y1wsq0I/AAAAAAAAA7E/JlJPBLY8R6c/s1600/201204-30+05a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GOwvJ-Rk-G0/T6p3y1wsq0I/AAAAAAAAA7E/JlJPBLY8R6c/s400/201204-30+05a.jpg" height="356" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shaft-Shark</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xfPiEdMsM7E/T6p3qkN6AkI/AAAAAAAAA68/x73-8ZngoXI/s1600/201204-30+04a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xfPiEdMsM7E/T6p3qkN6AkI/AAAAAAAAA68/x73-8ZngoXI/s400/201204-30+04a.jpg" height="315" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike chills out</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Nice cool, clear water - Oy! I’ve been looking forward to this.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Later, a cab to <i>Super Ché</i> for food provisioning.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue 1st May, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Electrician Martine determined that we should have the two alternators cleaned up so he and helper Enrique removed and took them away.</span></b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Repaired dinghy davit foam, replaced bulbs, miscellaneous. Repaired damaged spinnaker.</b></span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FIey2PiiZrc/T6qaOXdxFfI/AAAAAAAAA98/_2Sn1NIjDuk/s1600/201205-01+02a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FIey2PiiZrc/T6qaOXdxFfI/AAAAAAAAA98/_2Sn1NIjDuk/s400/201205-01+02a.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">spinnaker</td></tr>
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<b><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MUUuBKWPB90/T6qaOeTZXtI/AAAAAAAAA98/mmZ7Sdbc_3k/s1600/201205-01+05a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MUUuBKWPB90/T6qaOeTZXtI/AAAAAAAAA98/mmZ7Sdbc_3k/s400/201205-01+05a.jpg" height="306" width="400" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> To <i>Super Ché</i> again.</b></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Blood from a turnip: I finally badgered the boys into a little night life. Cab to Crucecita, we had dinner at Onix, bought a couple of their shirts. An eager cabby approached and I wanted his shirt, not a ride. He swore he could get me one so we piled in. Took us to a shop that did have cool shirts but he didn’t understand that I was interested in the cabby logo and Spanish script. No shirt but the shop also specialized in mescal; they had lots, so after trying several samples and picking at the bowl of roasted grasshoppers Steve bought me some wicked good mescal</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_LMN1E07Xq8/T_BUOJSttaI/AAAAAAAABRw/yUR-rkilAeQ/s1600/201205-02+03a+mescal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_LMN1E07Xq8/T_BUOJSttaI/AAAAAAAABRw/yUR-rkilAeQ/s400/201205-02+03a+mescal.jpg" height="303" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">and a bag of locally grown coffee. The entertaining shopkeeper, a talk show host slash used car salesman, plied us with tequila shots and crunchy grasshoppers.</span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed 2nd May</b></span></b><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Added 2 jerry jugs diesel (42l, 440p).</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve took three or four cab rides for engine belts to no avail and finally sent Martine.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Alternators and belts installed.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Added another 2 jerry jugs of diesel, topped off water, repaired tears in the bimini and changed the oil.</b></span></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HCpeXgrhOYA/T6qaTy51pTI/AAAAAAAAA98/psI6ts8W4HQ/s1600/201205-02+05a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HCpeXgrhOYA/T6qaTy51pTI/AAAAAAAAA98/psI6ts8W4HQ/s640/201205-02+05a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Planning to leave about 7pm to deal with the infamous Tehuano in the light of day.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Cab to Crucecita - shoot pool, get fruit/veggies, Mike and I meal @ La Crucecita.</b></span></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jyW3dBpEDk8/T6qac1SMMZI/AAAAAAAAA98/bIYx2jDOqZc/s1600/201205-02+18a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jyW3dBpEDk8/T6qac1SMMZI/AAAAAAAAA98/bIYx2jDOqZc/s640/201205-02+18a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fiw8A8Z4mf4/T8uYfk4hA8I/AAAAAAAABLs/fy905rsOduk/s1600/DSCF0724a+shoot+pool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fiw8A8Z4mf4/T8uYfk4hA8I/AAAAAAAABLs/fy905rsOduk/s640/DSCF0724a+shoot+pool.jpg" height="444" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUTCA2DXIwA/T6qaWwAG3lI/AAAAAAAAA98/cGr91G_Rni8/s1600/201205-02+15a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUTCA2DXIwA/T6qaWwAG3lI/AAAAAAAAA98/cGr91G_Rni8/s640/201205-02+15a.jpg" height="380" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xwaG3hDM8pg/T6qacKQerDI/AAAAAAAAA98/0JthVhSR02c/s1600/201205-02+19a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xwaG3hDM8pg/T6qacKQerDI/AAAAAAAAA98/0JthVhSR02c/s640/201205-02+19a.jpg" height="505" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve took a cab to complete paperwork before the 6pm deadline; Mike and I followed a half hour later.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Turns out they misunderstood and thought we were only checking out of Marina Chahue, not the country, so the paperwork needs revising and we need to visit the harbor master again...tomorrow.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Thu 3rd May</b></span></b><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve made one final jerry-run. Later he and Mike did a little more provisioning and visited the slow-mo harbor master to complete paperwork.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Early evening lovely Officer Natalie came to the boat for visual confirmation that there </b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"><b>was</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> a boat and crew as stated.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1700 15.45 x 96.07</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Leave Marina Chahue.</b></span></span></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OhoV6zjS1dY/T5KgdPXeRqI/AAAAAAAAA3A/CpOxliPbjI4/s1600/201203-04+20a+current+location.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OhoV6zjS1dY/T5KgdPXeRqI/AAAAAAAAA3A/CpOxliPbjI4/s640/201203-04+20a+current+location.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The knotometer wasn’t working, probably clogged with sea grass, so we anchored in the bay and Steve dove down with a toothbrush to dislodge it. In a half hour we’re on our way, out of the small bay and into open water in minutes. It is hot, sticky and windless. Mike steered for maybe an hour then we set Otto to 70 deg to keep within striking distance of land should dangerous weather suddenly arise.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1830</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> I rigged the fishing gear and got several serious hits, enough to bend the big hook, but nothing to show for it.</b></span></span></b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CQxyn-PjcyM/T8uY-wRcbcI/AAAAAAAABLs/NL38Vm-XVMM/s1600/DSCF0732a+fishing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CQxyn-PjcyM/T8uY-wRcbcI/AAAAAAAABLs/NL38Vm-XVMM/s640/DSCF0732a+fishing.jpg" height="442" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Great Leaping Mantas! They’re popping up all around catching as much as 10’ of air.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> MIke fired up the on-deck grill and we had hot dogs.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>2100-2400</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Mike’s shift.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Fri 4th May</b></span></b><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We will follow the gulf’s concave curve ten to twenty miles out all the way round in order to cross the narrower part of the funnel and allow a quick retreat to land.</b></span></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nod4NlRx7gE/T6qapqZreAI/AAAAAAAAA98/tG5EigUa3ZA/s1600/201205-04+02a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nod4NlRx7gE/T6qapqZreAI/AAAAAAAAA98/tG5EigUa3ZA/s640/201205-04+02a.jpg" height="496" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wq4fEYNOSF8/T6qawwdFakI/AAAAAAAAA98/PKRm6ms-vKU/s1600/201205-06+02a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wq4fEYNOSF8/T6qawwdFakI/AAAAAAAAA98/PKRm6ms-vKU/s640/201205-06+02a.jpg" height="476" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>2400-0330</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve’s shift.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0330</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve got me up for my watch with news that the 24v system is not charging, perhaps because of a loose wire or belt on the recently fussed-with alternators. We’ll inspect them when there’s light and cross our fingers we don’t have to go in for repairs. Thankfully, the 12v system <u>is</u> charging.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The moon is nearly full but spending a lot of time behind clouds leaving me with little visibility.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0415 15.58 x 094.58 86F/73%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Inexplicably, the 24v system lights are now on; confusing but a good thing, I spose.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0500</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Now completely overcast, no moon nor stars and dark as the inside of a cow; visibility nil.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0600 16.01 x 094.46 86F/73% 1600rpm, 6.5k</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Nothing to keep my eyes busy; struggling to keep them open. The engine drone and swish of the sea is lulling me to sleep. To stay alert I sometimes put on some tunes and dance a jig on the deck, but don’t want to risk waking the boys. A pot of strong coffee with Bailey’s might help.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0630</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> First rays of the new sun. Steve said to wake him at daylight to check the alternators but the meter still has 3 of 4 lights lit so I’ll let him sleep.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0700 16.02 x 094.41 86F/73%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> At last a waft of moving air in my face and sea turtles bobbing around. This kind of excitement should hold my attention for a while.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0715</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> I’m told now that three indicator lights don’t mean the system is charging. We hove to to see if it is an obvious fix. Not. Fired up the gen-set to force-charge it but we can’t run the engine at the same time and there is no appreciable wind, so here we sit. With no known substantial towns for help within 140 miles south, the boys decided to return to Huatulco (15 hours) to repair it, stopping as needed to run the gen-set. I tried for some sleep.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1230 15.56 x 095.05 93F/61%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 30 miles back toward Huatulco the boys thought we’d wait till the cooler evening to give the wiring a second look. I wondered if we oughtn’t do that sooner to possibly avoid more backtracking. We hove to again to try another fix.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1300</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Eureka! Mike found a disconnected ground wire and now it’s charging. After a quick baño at sea, another about-face and we’re en route once again in the right direction. The water was beautiful marine-blue, clear and refreshing. Don’t know why the others don’t take these skinny-dipping opportunities.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1500 15.58 x 094.54 95F/60%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Hot and hazy. Tossed out a fish line but the water is so warm it barely cooled me down and we think the fish are staying deep and cool. Very rocky here in the middle of Golfo de Tehuantepec, but oddly the winds are blowing directly toward shore, the opposite of what we expected. A few items were launched thither and yon but no breakage.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Mike pointed out a mysterious, pure white, I mean </b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"><b>albino</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, dorsal. What was that?</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1830</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Lots and lots of dolphins, and in fine form - a whole herd saw us from a distance and converged: “Yay, a boat to play with” - jumping higher and wilder than I’d seen before.</b></span></span></b><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>2100-2300</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Mike’s watch.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>2300-0320</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve’s.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sat 5th May</b></span></b><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0320</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> My watch. Without being wakened I was up before my call to duty and found Steve doing his 3 am pushups on deck. This time, before even setting foot above, I brewed a serious pot o’ joe. Lightning in the distance.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0400 15.27 x 093.30 88F/69%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We’re trying to stay 6-7 miles off shore so we can high-tail it in if necessary, but I see two big stationary blips on the radar 8 miles out and dead ahead - about a dozen miles off shore (15deg 20’.554 x 093deg 25’.609). Oil derricks, islands? This far out with our depth under 150’ I adjusted course from 130 deg to 170 to steer well clear of any outcroppings.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0515 15.18 x 093.27 88F/71%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Have been slowly tweaking back towards land, but several more ominous yellow blobs appeared on the monitor even though we’re now a full 17 miles out. I’m wondering whether I should have threaded the needle and gone between them and the shore...</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0630</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Good, the sun is rising and I’ll be able to lay my eyes on what the monitor sees. I’m spotting a few early morning dolphins lazily congratulating us for having crossed the Golfo de Tehuantepec. <sound mexican="" trumpets=""></sound></b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0900 15.02 x 093.04 87F/71%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Overcast, 1700rpm, 6.5k smooth, gently rolling seas. Maybe 60 miles to Guatemala.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Midday the jib went out to assist the iron spinny, first time since yesterday and only briefly because...the mysterious radar images proved to be areas of rain and we now see a huge one six miles ahead and the dark clouds and unmistakable gray pattern the rain paints on the sea.</b></span></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-go9-FYhVR2c/T6qauEf6WGI/AAAAAAAAA98/wSEY8Ci8yE8/s1600/201205-05+03a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-go9-FYhVR2c/T6qauEf6WGI/AAAAAAAAA98/wSEY8Ci8yE8/s400/201205-05+03a.jpg" height="296" width="400" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Jib back in and none too soon. After two days in the high 90s the abrupt temperature drop, maybe fifteen degrees, was refreshing but a clear sign of a quick weather change.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We knew we were in for a ride; Tehuantepec would not let us leave unscathed. Paul’s foulie jacket came into good use blocking the chilly mix of splashing sea and driving rain. Winds tripled to 25-30k, gusting over 40.</b></span></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yb8v-ZjVDGM/T8uYy6tCUwI/AAAAAAAABLs/EGOuD9yytyw/s1600/DSCF0742a+storm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yb8v-ZjVDGM/T8uYy6tCUwI/AAAAAAAABLs/EGOuD9yytyw/s640/DSCF0742a+storm.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1400</b></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> We just came out of the storm. It lasted about 2 hours. The heavy, driving rain has subsided somewhat and the wild, choppy swells have become smallish regimented waves,</span> tops lopped off by the wind and sides smoothed by the rain.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Taking a broader view it’s a gray-blue desert-like landscape.</span></b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1500</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The rain is done but the waves have become much choppier and erratic, often catching us off guard. Steve says most boat injuries are from a surprise loss of footing and getting banged about the <span style="font-family: inherit;">salon. </span></b></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">One rogue wave combination
launched Mike’s not insignificant frame plum off his cabin seat, nearly to
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> We saw a curious black flag on a flat buoy. Wondered if it was a distress signal but there were no people or boat pieces around it. And there are several pangas out here maybe 12-14 miles in these wild eight-foot waves. We veered off our course to come close enough to assist if necessary - close enough that they could have signaled us if there was a problem. Guess they’re fishing...just insane.</b></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> We later learned that the black flag marked one end of a long fishing line, as long as five miles, and a second attached flat buoy indicates the direction of the line.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Now aimed at Mexico’s southernmost pacific point, Puerto Madero.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font: 10px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font-size: xx-small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1700 14.31 x 092.19 89F/64%</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span>1800 14.24 x 092.11 89F/63%</b></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Now the sea is deceptively silky smooth - every so often the right combination of swells merge to launch the bow way up and it crashes a good ten feet down into a trough. With little warning it’s easy to lose your footing. During a brief nap the vertical turbulence was like that in a plane when your insides sort of float. </span>Once it nearly lifted my prone body right off the bunk. When the boat rocks front to back it’s really no problem once you get used to it. Rolling side to side, however, gives this feeling that you might roll right out of the bunk. A lee cloth is a sort of papoose designed to prevent that, but I haven’t used it yet; I usually angle myself across the berth so I’m once again rocking head to toe. But that requires a certain “V” insert and a bit of fussing about. However I have developed, but not yet patented, a sleeping position in which I separate my feet and arms to get less log-like and so harder to roll.<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> </span></b></span><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Freeze
a runner in mid-stride, tip him over on his side is what it looks like. But today sleeping posture isn’t as much a
problem as the smacks of water on the outer hull, inches from where my head
rests. They sound like hammer strikes.</span></span></b><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"> </span>Why fight it; I'm up.</span></b></span><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> These long passages are rough on your sleep cycle; we’re all tired a lot of the time. Cappy promised after tonight one more night and then a break.</b></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> This water is ugly; gray-green and even brownish when it splashes - so different from what I swam in yesterday.</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span></span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Little wonder pirates had beards. In these waves, without a safety razor, you’d slit’cher bloody throat.</b></span></span></b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span></b><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Now, the guys are conked out charging their batteries for tonight’s watches while I’m up top gliding across the imaginary line in the water to Guatemala - ¡Adios Mexico!</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>2100-2400</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Mike’s watch.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>2400-0230</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Steve’s watch</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Sun 6th May</span></b></span></b><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (clocks back an hour)</span></b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0230</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> John’s watch</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0300 13.47 x 091.05 86F/72%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> full moon, gently rolling sea.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>It didn’t take long for the moon to disappear into blankets of clouds. Cool feeling in the air, lightning in the distance; we could be seeing some weather.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0430</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Smooth sea, 1700 rpm with a favorable current we’re doing an admirable 7.5k SOG. No rain on the radar within twelve miles, but that familiar cool breeze has picked up and distant lightning flashes have increased.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0600 13.40 x 090.41 86F/70%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> 14nm off shore.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0630</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Thoroughly overcast but there’s a glow in the sky and on the water so I know the sun’s behind there somewhere. Some small storms appeared on the radar but I have successfully willed away the rains and lightning and we’re slip slidin’ south.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0700</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Calm, quiet, pluggin’ along. Talk about lo-o-o-ng, rolling swells - these are forty yards apart and no more than a few feet high; perfect rock-a-bye sleeping conditions for the lucky bastards in their bunks.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0800 13.37 x 090.29 86F/70%</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The little engine that could hasn’t had but two brief rests since Huatulco - 65 hours, 420 miles - and she’s purring like a kitten.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>~Sea turtles with bird riders.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>~feeding frenzy - li’l yellow bird</b></span></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A9wquOP0l2w/T6qa30RD7kI/AAAAAAAAA-E/q7MJ5YS675I/s1600/201205-06+16a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A9wquOP0l2w/T6qa30RD7kI/AAAAAAAAA-E/q7MJ5YS675I/s640/201205-06+16a.jpg" height="486" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1700</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Desperate to sail at least a little, we tried the jib, then main, lost the wind and at <4k boat speed, motored a rhumb line to Bahia del Sol.</b></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: xx-small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>2130 13.17 x 88.54 Trip nm 500+ engine hours 2320</b></span><span style="font: 10px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Anchored a mile off Bahia del Sol, El Salvador.</span></b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Knock on wood, there have been no skeeters, gnats, no-see-‘ems, no bugs so far - I mean since San Francisco! I know that can’t last.</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon 7th May</b></span></b><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font: 10px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font-size: xx-small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0800 87F/74%</b></span></b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vS5Cw-4Zo-w/T6qau5_EiNI/AAAAAAAAA-I/lG-KfN5wEBg/s1600/201205-05+07a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vS5Cw-4Zo-w/T6qau5_EiNI/AAAAAAAAA-I/lG-KfN5wEBg/s640/201205-05+07a.jpg" height="640" width="524" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sunrise</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Awoke to quiet seas, but monster waves are breaking on shore. Entering Bahia del Sol, with its shallow entryway and huge breakers, requires a guide, and can only be done at high tide. The next high tide is 1400-1500 this afternoon at which time a jet ski will come out to escort us in. So we have a half dozen hours to kill and I’m recommending some poker.</b></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1445</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Bill, of “Mita Kuuluu”, our Bahia del Sol connection, radioed instructions for us to rendezvous with our escort at 13.16.7 x 88.53.3, a point just before the first breaking wave of the entryway. This seemed insane, that he was going to guide us into a series of ten to twelve foot crashing waves, but that’s exactly what was about to happen. I’ll describe it as best I can, but it won’t come close to the actual experience. We had visual contact with the jet ski and VHF contact with Bill sitting behind the jet-ski pilot. After one abortive attempt he got us properly aligned, perpendicular to the waves. On the “go” command Steve thrust the throttle forward and Liberation II was off. In a moment the first giant was frothing at our heels and the stern rose several feet. Looking back at Steve, I saw him almost entirely framed by boiling white bubbles. We were off! In just a few seconds The Lib accelerated to over 14k, faster than she can physically sail and faster than the dear thing had ever moved. The first ride was a long one, maybe 300 yards. Steady Steve maintained a right angle to the breakers. A moment of deceleration and another wave took over. What a rush. After a few of these, all fear had gone and I began regretting the ride was nearly over. All the while Bill was snapping shots of us surfing our 13-ish ton board. Who on earth decided to put a marina here? And how on earth do we get out? This may have been the single coolest time to have taken a video but with all the unknowns I might be called upon to do, I daresn’t document.</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">These were taken by Bill while riding on back of our jet-ski chaperone:</span></span> </b></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vIzzBNkJJmc/T6tJfGmsS4I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/0W5dByonUBA/s1600/liberation2+5-7-2012+3-18-03+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vIzzBNkJJmc/T6tJfGmsS4I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/0W5dByonUBA/s640/liberation2+5-7-2012+3-18-03+PM.JPG" height="454" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vsvBBUtcAP0/T6tJuXsDQoI/AAAAAAAAA-w/efCZNPXAAaw/s1600/liberation2+5-7-2012+3-19-08+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vsvBBUtcAP0/T6tJuXsDQoI/AAAAAAAAA-w/efCZNPXAAaw/s640/liberation2+5-7-2012+3-19-08+PM.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0IvPHj6dvJU/T6tJxrjs4FI/AAAAAAAAA-4/VMdgJ_lLG_g/s1600/liberation2+5-7-2012+3-20-51+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0IvPHj6dvJU/T6tJxrjs4FI/AAAAAAAAA-4/VMdgJ_lLG_g/s640/liberation2+5-7-2012+3-20-51+PM.JPG" height="538" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;"> Safely past the breakers, now dodging logs and
branches being sucked out by the swift tide, we motored a smooth half mile to
the marina and were directed into a slip, greeted by smiling, congratulatory
faces who had witnessed Steve’s expert entry.
Oh, and three rum punches proffered on a silver tray. That’s
my kind of welcoming. It set the tone
for our three-day layover: amiable, relaxed and friendly. But, business before pleasure, we were
escorted to the immigration and registration office, which went smoothly. While Steve dealt with that, I investigated
the particulars. This marina offers
three options: anchor out, moor or slip.
I signed us up for the slip because for an additional $14 we joined some
club that allows us 30% off all purchases, tasty five dollar burger meals,
dollar beers and, importantly, half off slip fees (50 cents/ft.). One days’ slip fee discount more than covers
the club cost and we don’t need the dinghy every time we want to reach land.</span></span></b></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-acmSMW9Hsyo/T6tLCigqPII/AAAAAAAAA_A/C9ceAZjDdXc/s1600/201205-08+01a+Bahia+del+Sol+marina.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-acmSMW9Hsyo/T6tLCigqPII/AAAAAAAAA_A/C9ceAZjDdXc/s400/201205-08+01a+Bahia+del+Sol+marina.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLxlI3MVFdo/T6tLMcXP4hI/AAAAAAAAA_Y/wqFeB13B_IY/s1600/201205-08+06a+Hotel+Bahia+del+Sol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLxlI3MVFdo/T6tLMcXP4hI/AAAAAAAAA_Y/wqFeB13B_IY/s400/201205-08+06a+Hotel+Bahia+del+Sol.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFwzxrNg3EY/T6tLRexXqyI/AAAAAAAABAw/1beCjlhR_DM/s1600/201205-08+07a+Hotel+Bahia+del+Sol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFwzxrNg3EY/T6tLRexXqyI/AAAAAAAABAw/1beCjlhR_DM/s400/201205-08+07a+Hotel+Bahia+del+Sol.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> All told, these are the best amenities yet. Vallarta had many but was expensive and commercial and stuffy; Huatulco had next to none and wasn’t that much cheaper. Here at Bahia del Sol we have a fuel dock, boat water, pool, showers, included WiFi and it’s charming, laid back and the dining is not expensive. We also have the option of a decent sixty dollar room with private outdoor Jacuzzi if, say, I wanted to rid myself of the gruesome twosome for a night.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Business done, we headed for the pool. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>There are plenty of like-minded cruisers here, several of whom are acquaintances. Sitting in and around the pool from four to six in the afternoon is the time to trade stories and exchange expertise. Burgers, beers and back to the boat.</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> I enjoyed a night cap and cigarette sitting at the end of the dock and struck up a conversation with a dock worker, Alberto, who, if you can believe it, knows less English than I do Spanish. We were able to squeeze out a basic dialogue for a half hour (“Mi casa es el barco”, pointing to The Lib), then bid buenos noches and I headed for my </b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"><b>thankfully not rocking</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> berth.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue 8th May</b></span><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0530</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Up brewing coffee, checking email.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> The tides roar in and out of this estuary at a surprising clip but thankfully have little effect on the boat. At times it’s nearly as stable as being on land.</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>0700</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Time for a dip in the pool and coffee via Leo, the friendly, helpful and omnipresent staffer. Steve’s off running.</b></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uybHhFMpbVQ/T6tLGCrzwuI/AAAAAAAABAk/O_Y_9Glt5qs/s1600/201205-08+03a+parrot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uybHhFMpbVQ/T6tLGCrzwuI/AAAAAAAABAk/O_Y_9Glt5qs/s640/201205-08+03a+parrot.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BrbTaG8Xjyk/T6tLTxhLy8I/AAAAAAAAA_w/kGb1qcS-C48/s1600/201205-08+15a+egret+on+dock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BrbTaG8Xjyk/T6tLTxhLy8I/AAAAAAAAA_w/kGb1qcS-C48/s640/201205-08+15a+egret+on+dock.jpg" height="442" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> With less than a half tank of diesel, we waited for the 4pm high tide and motored the hundred yards over to the fuel dock. It took quite a while to pump the 100.3 gallons ($5.09/gal) but she’s nearly topped off now. <engine 2322="" hours=""></engine></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span><span style="font: 11px Tahoma; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>1700</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> down to the pool for the afternoon gathering. After a dip someone said let’s go down the road to the Mar y Sol for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pupusa" target="_blank">pupusas</a>.</b><b> Fifteen of us descended upon the little roadside restaurant for this traditional Salvadoran dish. At 75 cents a pop, we three spent all of $6 on food and about the same on drinks. Dinner was a bit heavy; the half mile walk back to the boat helped.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed 9th May</b></span><b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>, '12</b></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> Up before six. After coffee, a dip in the pool and desayuno at the marina restaurant. Added 2 jerrys to completely top off fuel. Dammit, I told him I could've squoze another 10 gallons from the pump.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> What a cool tree, the Almendra - nature’s sunbrella.</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;">1600-1800</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Poolside klatsch. A dinner buffet was being set up dockside and we all agreed $10.50 was a good deal. Afterwards we took a tour of Lee’s boat, <i>Solent</i>, and they of ours. Serena, her sister Kate and Lewis are crew.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Thu 10th May,'12</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0500</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> We three up prepping for departure.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0610 13.17 x 088.53 84F/75%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> As we exit, those monstrous waves we surfed in on are now mere swells and we tooled right through them to open waters. No fun at all.</span></b><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Damn, the knotometer is stuck again.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0730</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Cool 14k headwind, overcast. 1650 rpm blasting through big-ass choppy swells.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0800</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Jib out, 7-7.5k boat speed.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0815 85F/79%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Knot meter and trip meter shook free.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Fri 11th May</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b>,'12</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0330</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> My watch. Steve’s a good guy - he always comes on early and stays late buying Mike and I at least an extra half hour’s sleep each night. I start with a manly pot o’ joe and Bailey’s, which I wisely stocked from Super Che. Strong breeze at our nose; cool and refreshing but a helluva a choppy ride - too choppy even to type on the keyboard. It’s an isometric workout just trying to stay put and my hair is just a dreadful mess; I fear I must look a fright. Good thing I don’t give a shit. True boat speed 14+ but SOG only 6.5; 15k headwind and unfavorable current to blame.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Here, deep in the tropics, he who never falls ill caught, of all things, a cold. I went to bed wet and left a fan blowing right on my chest is what done it I think.</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0415</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Strange that there’s a glow of light behind the clouds and on the ocean - way early for sunrise</span></b><span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Unicode">‽</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Did we cross another time zone?</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0500 11.57 x 086.51 85F/70%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> A little less choppy. Clearly the sun is rising, but it’s barely 5am? Trip: 138nm (+2 hours travel); 21+1 hr?</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> We scooted right by the small piece of Honduras that touches the Pacific and, despite my protests, are now passing Nicaragua from some 10 miles out.</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0800</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Main up (reef3) and jib out; motor off. 6.7k boat, 170deg course.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> During the course of the day the winds off our port beam rose to a consistent range of 15-20; once up to 28. Rocking hard all day combined with a 30º heel made it difficult to move about. The gimbaled stove top at an impossible angle looked like something out of Mystery Village where balls roll uphill.</b></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EJOuzTQUvKY/T7wGmN9_VGI/AAAAAAAABBQ/HJQreN4YvbE/s1600/201205-11+04a+gimbled+stove+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EJOuzTQUvKY/T7wGmN9_VGI/AAAAAAAABBQ/HJQreN4YvbE/s400/201205-11+04a+gimbled+stove+top.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1500 11.02 x 086.35 92F/54%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> We’re making great headway. For the last four hours boat speed rarely dipped below 7 and, for a moment, reached 8. It is hot and sticky and, as the boat is continually bathed by crashing waves, all the hatches and portals are sealed up tight. It’s a bloody steam bath below. Still, having started my day at three, I thought I’d try for a little sleep. After an hour of writhing in sweat I gave up.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1645</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The wind suddenly slackened by half. We took this opportunity to lower the main and free the halyard that had earlier caught on a spreader. Re-raised the main to little avail but hope to have usable wind later. Swung open every portal, hatch and hole in the boat that might provide fresh air.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1730 10.54 x 86.59 92F/58%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Much calmer, still windless. Motor sailing within striking distance of Islas Murcielagos after which we hope to pick up some internet signals from Costa Rica.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> I’m not likening myself to a prisoner, but what we have in common is limited resources and time on our hands. MacGyver-style, I have collected and sewn together sea sponges to painstakingly craft a seat to cushion against the hard back of the cabin bench.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Sat 12th May</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b>,'12</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0330</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> My watch. Cool breeze throughout the salon and berths; slept pretty well.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Clear sky, bright moon and stars. Motor sailing @6.5-7.0 on a smooth sea. The boat is fairly caked with salt. Run your hand cross a lifeline and you get enough for a margarita.</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0500 10.03 x 085.52 84F/74%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Six miles off Costa Rican coast. 290+nm; 43.9+hrs. Lightning in the distance but no rain on radar.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0530</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Wind velocity nil; hiked in the main and jib.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0600 09.57 x 085.51 86F/72%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Beautiful sun glowing on the horizon.</span></b><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0630</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Rounding Punta Guiones, adjusted course to 125, into the wind. Rolled up the jib and hiked the traveler to port. 1450 rpm; 6k boat speed.</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0700 09.52 x 085.47 85F/75%</span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1600 09.27 x 084.58 92F/64%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Cut hard 90º to port to take a break in Bahia Ballena.</span></b><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> We overnighted here in Golfo de <span style="font-size: small;">Nicoya, Costa Rica. I'm immediately over the side and, ahhh, finally surrounded <span style="font-size: small;">by cool, refreshing water.</span></span> </span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> It's Saturday night and we spot lights around the dock - weehoo, let's dinghy in and party!</span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Nope - all there was was a bunch of locals fishing from the dock and a pitch-dark road we followed for a few hundred yards before giving up and turning back.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Sun 13th May</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b>,'12</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b> Last night's huge rainstorm washed away all the encrusted sal<span style="font-size: small;">t the boat had accumulated from days at sea. T<span style="font-size: small;">his
morning, after another swim, we dinghied to shore to wander the sleepy
town of Tambor. It's the off (rainy) season and Sunday to boot so not a
beehive of activity, but quietly pleasant. We came across the charming
<i><a href="http://www.hotelcostacoral.com/" target="_blank">Hotel Costa Coral</a></i> for desayuno...umm, banana bread and locally<span style="font-size: small;">-grown coffee.</span></span></span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> I was here in Costa Rica in '93 and it is every bit as lush and lovely as I remember. I wouldn't mind a three- or four-day layover to check out the volcanoes and <span style="font-size: small;">rain forest</span>. We'll explore more of the bay by dinghy before the slave driver puts us to sea again to<span style="font-size: small;">wards Panama.</span> </span></span></span> </b></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ap2kXnhuQxU/T-7k7JIm3eI/AAAAAAAABP4/gTmDPVJm4Zk/s1600/201205-13+37a+mike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ap2kXnhuQxU/T-7k7JIm3eI/AAAAAAAABP4/gTmDPVJm4Zk/s400/201205-13+37a+mike.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Afternoon depart </b></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Bahia Ballena/Tambor.</span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> In the black of night we are in a wicked storm, rocked fore and aft, port and starboard with nasty, indecisive currents to boot. This came about while I was “resting” in my berth. As the bow rises high then falls back there is often not a lot, but always some cushion afforded by the choppy waters. But two or three times it came to such an abrupt landing that it shook my bones and I couldn’t help but think what it did to Lib’s.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> It seems a strain on the engine and at times we are making almost no headway at all although maintaining 1600 rpm. The swells we’d been cutting through became a nearly impenetrable wall.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> The transmission may have been damaged, making unusual sounds when accelerating or decelerating. Headed straight in towards Quepos. </b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> 0300 Quepos. We couldn’t determine the distance to the mangrove-lined shore, but it sure seemed close...and the depths didn’t make sense. We slowly followed the coast and finally anchored down in weird waters among a number of S/Vs and M/Vs which all seemed to be moored.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Mon 14th May</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b>,'12</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">09.25 x 084.10</span></b></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><b style="font-weight: bold;"> We dinghied in to Quepos pier and were permitted a few hours to search for transmission fluid without “checking in”, but could not leave our dinghy. </b><checking a="" already="" and="" another="" boat="" check-in="" checking="" country.="" country="" customs="customs" documents="" expensive="" hassle="" immigration="immigration" in:="" in="" into="" is="" lengthy="" less="" nbsp="nbsp" of="" painful="" passports="passports" port="" rather="" records.="" registered.="" the="" to="" travel="" ve="" which="" you="you"><b style="font-weight: bold;"> So, we couldn’t leave the dinghy and hired panganeer Jorge to follow us back to the boat and return us to shore. A ridiculously short taxi ride into town and we quickly found just what we needed. With time to spare we decided to wander. We split up, staying in touch with handheld VHF radios, ultimately rendezvous-ing at El Gran Escape for BLTAs and beers. We walked back to the pier, climbed into Jorge’s panga and went back to the boat. Six bucks.</b></checking></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Fluid in and after a short breather we were off.</b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1430 09.25 x 084.10</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Anchored in Bahia de Manuel Antonio. Iffy about the health of our transmission and no decent-sized towns within striking distance this late in the day, we decided to overnight. This is a national park reputed to have more wildlife and more diversity of wildlife than anywhere in Costa Rica besides zoos.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> With the better part of the day remaining, despite substantial waves breaking on shore, we reckoned we’d dinghy in and check out the few palapas we could see from the boat. I was fully prepared to be capsized and secured everything in a wet bag. So choppy, just getting into the dinghy was a challenge; Mike got slammed in the backside and Steve was nearly thrown out while we were still tied to the swim deck. Dumb luck but it seemed like a miracle: the huge waves subsided just in time and for just long enough for us to dryly slide onto shore.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> In sprinkling rain we sat trying new beers and chicken teriyaki. Steve struck up with a Santa Fe ex-pat.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Okay, sun’s falling fast, time to head back.</b></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3VJrxpV80wE/T-7k8B4j0kI/AAAAAAAABP4/hy-2traJGjI/s1600/201205-15+05a+manuel+antonio+waves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3VJrxpV80wE/T-7k8B4j0kI/AAAAAAAABP4/hy-2traJGjI/s320/201205-15+05a+manuel+antonio+waves.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">waves bigger than they look</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> If anything, the waves had grown. We made several abortive attempts to push the dinghy past the breakers, the idea being that we’d swim out after it. We didn’t even come close and lost some clothes in the effort. Now it’s twilight - do or die time. Hard enough to gauge the waves now, it would be impossible in the dark. Here goes nothing. We passed, we think, all but one breaker and Mike pops in. Still pushing, Steve and I were about to join him when the Mother hit. Mike was a rag doll, launched in the air with the dinghy. It landed on me but Steve was able to jump clear. The wave’s force held me to the bottom in swirling sand. I came up long enough for a breath and bam - got clobbered again and in a shot was sent heels-over-head rushing toward shore. One more for good measure then I finally found my feet. Scanning the twilight I saw both boys, quite far apart, and shouted “Where is it?”. The dinghy was well up on shore and upright. The wet bag was intact and even the unsecured oars remained and phew! no one was injured. But Mike and I were surely sugar-cookied (wet & dipped in sand). Well, ain’t this a revoltin’ development!?</b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Despite the posted “Dangerous Rip Currents”, IronMan planned to swim to the boat in pitch dark, actually for all of us to, I think, and deal with fetching the dinghy in the morning. Well, the wet bag held my passport, money, credit cards and camera. You could hardly swim with it and I wasn’t about to abandon it overnight. I was roundly chided for bringing all that stuff to shore. The lockers we’d seen at the palapa were unsecured and the staff said we’d be crazy to attempt that swim anyway. As the only one who seemed interested in other options, i asked about renting a room and they mentioned a couple hotels. I opted for the closest, whether alone or with my compadres and after some resistance that’s where we went. I asked for explicit directions but they just pointed and waved left and right. Turns out the path to the hotels began just a few trees behind us.</span><b style="font-weight: bold;"> Dripping like drowned rats at the reception desk of the <i>Hotel de Verde Mar</i> we checked in. Gee, ain’t it a good thing someone had a passport and credit card?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> No laundry to dry our clothes, no TV to escape our trauma, I took a dip in the pool, borrowed a book from the desk, showered and turned in.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> An odd thing about the room - there were no drawers. No drawers beside the bed for Gideon’s Bible; no drawers, nor cabinets for that matter, in the bathroom for a toothbrush or extra paper rolls; no drawers, even, in the kitchen for plates or flatware. If you didn’t see something, it wasn’t there - no need to look for it because there were no drawers.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">~ Mosaics</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Tue 15th May</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b>,'12</b></span></div>
<div style="font-weight: bold;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Up around six, we walked down to assess the waves in the daylight - still looking rather ominous. Steve took a run and I went hunting coffee.</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GGFy4a7ZMq4/T-7k7jfJ-pI/AAAAAAAABP4/Du63nwxMFxM/s1600/201205-15+04a+battered+dinghy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GGFy4a7ZMq4/T-7k7jfJ-pI/AAAAAAAABP4/Du63nwxMFxM/s640/201205-15+04a+battered+dinghy.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the battered dinghy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> After Anita at a nearby hotel presented us with a gentle desayuno and good coffee ("Cawhee? </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">You wan' schuga, no schuga?”),</span> we summoned our courage to give it another go. Two or three attempts at pushing through those waves just ended up in swallowed salt water, a grand soaking and the dinghy back to square one on the beach. I insisted we hire a jet ski or panga to drag the damn thing out. Walking up the beach with those intentions a Colin Ferrell-looking dude approached me and in very strained English asked if I was "he-who-had-crashed", as, apparently, our story had by now spread far and wide.</span></div>
<div>
<div style="font-weight: 800;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> He gestured to a catamaran in the bay, said it was his friend's and could help. Presently a panga appeared from behind the cat and sped towards the Lib. The driver grabbed one of our long lines from her lazarette and came towards us. Deftly through the crashing waves, in no time he was there and quickly executed his plan: drag the dinghy past the last breaker while we three swam. That we did, clambered in and were towed to the Lib, a bit dazed and confused but safe and sound.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> All that wave power, all day and all of the night, makes me wonder if there could be a hydrofarm of something like tow generators to collect it.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0900</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> depart Bahia Manuel Antonio 88F/65% Sunny, glassy. 6.5 motoring; hugging the coast.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1830 08.41 x 083.40</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Anchor down in <a href="http://www.anywherecostarica.com/destinations/drake-bay-costa-rica" target="_blank">Bahia Drake</a> (for Sir Francis Drake).</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Wed 16th May</span><span style="font-size: small;"><b>,'12</b></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Up at little before six. Very calm water, cool breeze, slept pretty well.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Holy Smoke - by seven it's already stifling! No breeze and a blazing sun. On deck just the menial chores of flaking lines and siphoning gas have got me in a light-headed heat stroke condition. PLEASE let it rain.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Siphoned 10 gallons of diesel from the jerry-jugs.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> We motor-dinghied into the Drake lagoon to the Aguila Eco-resort, nestled into the rain forest mountainside. The super-lush flora left no doubt that, no, we weren’t in Kansas anymore.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w5NHjmEyctY/T8ubmRYM4JI/AAAAAAAABLs/JIeBecPA9-0/s1600/DSCF0884a+120+steps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w5NHjmEyctY/T8ubmRYM4JI/AAAAAAAABLs/JIeBecPA9-0/s640/DSCF0884a+120+steps.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">120 steps up</td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_xUW7GpsUWA/T76mw51edQI/AAAAAAAABD4/EKb7dU9en3g/s1600/201205-16+06a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_xUW7GpsUWA/T76mw51edQI/AAAAAAAABD4/EKb7dU9en3g/s640/201205-16+06a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dnUS4_1gyOc/T76mOVRU86I/AAAAAAAABD4/aJ1JxI-_LYM/s1600/201205-16+05a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dnUS4_1gyOc/T76mOVRU86I/AAAAAAAABD4/aJ1JxI-_LYM/s640/201205-16+05a.jpg" height="476" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-svBvHqjvxLA/T76nDJuOrPI/AAAAAAAABD4/blR95ejNJFg/s1600/201205-16+10a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-svBvHqjvxLA/T76nDJuOrPI/AAAAAAAABD4/blR95ejNJFg/s640/201205-16+10a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-38CsD-gplMc/T8uaWYWQwcI/AAAAAAAABLs/M5BXJH0vo_w/s1600/DSCF0861a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-38CsD-gplMc/T8uaWYWQwcI/AAAAAAAABLs/M5BXJH0vo_w/s640/DSCF0861a.jpg" height="490" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ty0csm7N378/T8ua0Q0tgNI/AAAAAAAABLs/EQiVippvmJI/s1600/DSCF0895a+found+a+pool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ty0csm7N378/T8ua0Q0tgNI/AAAAAAAABLs/EQiVippvmJI/s640/DSCF0895a+found+a+pool.jpg" height="558" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've been very lucky at finding pools</td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hFRmLc1NZ-0/T8ucOvgKymI/AAAAAAAABLs/CFvt5SG0MTc/s1600/DSCF0911a+pool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hFRmLc1NZ-0/T8ucOvgKymI/AAAAAAAABLs/CFvt5SG0MTc/s640/DSCF0911a+pool.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; font-weight: 800;"> We dinghied back to the Lib at anchor in Bahia Drake for the jerry-jugs. It's always good to have extra diesel and a nearby town is said to have some. Fortified with rum punch, we decide to make the supposedly short hike. "It's just 7 minutes down that path", we were told. Well, it was more like 37 minutes but I wouldn't have minded if it were a lot longer. The primitive trail wound round lush trees, exotic plants, across stepping stones, over planks, tires, a wobbly rope and board bridge, down to the beach and back up to the edge of the rain forest. A friendly dog accompanied us nearly all the way and when I would fall behind taking pictures he'd look back and wait with concern.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YGmSTg64zsM/VM6rJqlMvvI/AAAAAAAAChQ/s8QPdJcvxyQ/s1600/OVD_GIF.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YGmSTg64zsM/VM6rJqlMvvI/AAAAAAAAChQ/s8QPdJcvxyQ/s1600/OVD_GIF.gif" height="640" width="639" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our Via Dieselorosa</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; font-weight: 800;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; font-weight: 800;"> Hah! - Mike makes them look heavy but them jugs is empty.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aLv-BiWsCfE/VM6V5P7QLRI/AAAAAAAAChA/oYqL6f-Qr3Q/s1600/201205-16%2B41.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aLv-BiWsCfE/VM6V5P7QLRI/AAAAAAAAChA/oYqL6f-Qr3Q/s1600/201205-16%2B41.JPG" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; font-weight: 800;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; font-weight: 800;"> Steve dropped a record $7/gallon this time. We bought their last 8 gallons, transferred to our jugs via the "CPR" method of which I was, and now Steve and Mike are, expert.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small; font-weight: 800;"> Having become friendly with the store owner, he gave us a pickup truck ride down to the beach where I stood guard over the booty while the boys dinghied over to pick me, and it, up.</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/%20%3Cembed%20type=%22application/x-shockwave-flash%22%20src=%22https://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/bin/slideshow.swf%22%20width=%22400%22%20height=%22267%22%20flashvars=%22host=picasaweb.google.com&hl=en_US&feat=flashalbum&RGB=0x000000&feed=https%3A%2F%2Fpicasaweb.google.com%2Fdata%2Ffeed%2Fapi%2Fuser%2F106261750225403632389%2Falbumid%2F5768430181864285201%3Falt%3Drss%26kind%3Dphoto%26hl%3Den_US%22%20pluginspage=%22http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer%22%3E%3C/embed%3E"> </a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><Siphoned 8.5 gallons from the jerry-jugs.></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1500</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> depart Bahia Drake</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">Thu 17th May, '12</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0230</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> My watch. The lazy little sliver of a moon coming up off the bow hasn’t got long to shine before being erased by another early sunrise.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0500 08.07 x 082.31 86F/77%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Tweaked from an 80deg course to 70 to thread between the mainland and Isla Parida. Headed nearly due East, straight into the sun.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LXTTfUzIrKo/T76aRkDIksI/AAAAAAAABCo/l647tPbESdo/s1600/201205-17+18a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LXTTfUzIrKo/T76aRkDIksI/AAAAAAAABCo/l647tPbESdo/s640/201205-17+18a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0520</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> No - it looks too shallow. Switched to 120deg so to round Parida and then cut in to Boca Chica.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1000 08.12 x 082.12</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Anchor down in Boca Chica, Panama.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Evidently the beating our poor dinghy took at Manuel Antonio had separated a section of rubber from the aluminum hull as we now had a sizable leak detected as Steve and I began to row to shore. Up to our ankles in no time, but somehow we got to SeaGull Cove’s small dock.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"> Welcomed by 125 eight inch steep steps up to the lovely resort we met the South African managers Derrick and Avril. Quick to please and probably bored, as they had no guests, we spent an hour or two chatting over drinks. In heavy rain some hurried bailing ensued and we headed back to the boat muy pronto.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">added 24 gal diesel by jerrys via panga to Carlos’.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;"></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">Fri 18th May</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span></div>
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<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 800;">
<span class="Apple-style-span"> Mike rowed Steve in so he could trip to David (DaVEED) for hard provisions and to buy some internet access. Shortly afterward Steve intercepted my hailing on VHF and suggested we row over to Gone Fishin’, an adjacent resort, for breakfast and drinks, which we did.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 800;">
<span class="Apple-style-span"> Steve scored a ride to David with the owner, Bruce, while Mike and I picked the sailing brains of the one or two guys who appeared at the open air bar. Very little for the staff to do, I made friends with them, got a couple towels and permission to hit the pool. Oh, that felt good. Cool, unsalty water. I hit it three or four times, every time I got the least bit hot.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 800;">
<span class="Apple-style-span"> Steve returned in the early afternoon, perhaps a little chagrined that we hadn’t arranged to get diesel or water. We had a great big fresh tuna lunch. Bruce kindly offered potable water from his dock if we could get the Lib over there quickly, as high tide was waning.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 800;">
<span class="Apple-style-span"> Added 34 gal diesel by jerrys via panga to Carlos’.</span></div>
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<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 800;">
<span class="Apple-style-span"> Boca Chica panga 6214-6883</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Sat 19th May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0700 08.12 x 082.12 79F/80%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Mooring off; leave Boca Chica.</span></b></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bLCBzj9jXB8/T76YePazDcI/AAAAAAAABCQ/GuhOhJoeaJc/s1600/201205-18+07a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bLCBzj9jXB8/T76YePazDcI/AAAAAAAABCQ/GuhOhJoeaJc/s640/201205-18+07a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from "Gone Fishin'" (Rocks submerged at high tide)</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Ignorance is bliss they say and coming into Boca Chica at high tide we were certainly ignorant of the many barely submerged rocks we had luckily dodged. Going out we were able to see them poking up their sharp, ugly heads as we carefully zigzagged to avoid them.</b></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_51Zw0JN-I4/T76UjRy0SaI/AAAAAAAABBw/NF3tvSHEb18/s1600/201205-19+04a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_51Zw0JN-I4/T76UjRy0SaI/AAAAAAAABBw/NF3tvSHEb18/s640/201205-19+04a.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1200 07.53 x 081.49 87F/73%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> 14 mile off shore. Storm brewing dead ahead; cut towards land in case we need shelter.</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> A pissy little storm kept things cool. 15-17 wind; 7+ boat</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Sun 20th May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1200</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Steve’s watch</span></b></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GqcHSoXk8O4/T-7lQoRCOQI/AAAAAAAABQY/eFpGirHSkTk/s1600/201205-20+03a+ripped+sail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GqcHSoXk8O4/T-7lQoRCOQI/AAAAAAAABQY/eFpGirHSkTk/s320/201205-20+03a+ripped+sail.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> <span style="font-size: xx-small;">00</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">30</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The mainsail had been single-reefed since early yesterday. It ripped once, low, just over the reefing then, in minutes, again above that. It’s in tatters. All hands on deck, but too rocky and dark to safely bring it down.</span></b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Motoring slowly to Ensenada Benao to assess damage and catch our breath.</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0200</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> my shift. It tears at me when with every new gust I hear that low, sharp rrrrip of more lost canvas, but there’s nothing to be done.</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0230 07.08 x 080.28 83F/80%</span></b></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mainsail in tatters</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0800 07.25 x 080.11 83F/78%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Anchor down in Ensenada Benao. Flaked the tattered main and we are beat, physically from lack of sleep and mentally from this most recent travail. Now trying for some rest.</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> We took this opportunity to pull the dinghy out and try again at mending the wound - now a three-foot length of separation between rubber and aluminum. Laid upside down on the aft deck, this time we applied lock-tite liquid metal under and over the area and this time left it to set for the recommended curing time. </b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1300</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> We depart Benao under thoroughly overcast skies, pissing rain and rock ‘n roll seas.</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Mon 21st May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1200</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> My watch, the sandwatch, the crappy one, usually Steve’s, sandwiched between the after-dinner and sunrise watches. Having rounded Punta Mala we are well into Bahia de Panama.</span></b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0300 08.28 x 079.27 84F/77%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Now thirty miles from Panama City, I can see its glow. Lumbering on lazy waters our battle-scarred vessel, beat but not broken, tired but victorious, is in striking distance of one of our most important landmarks, the Panama Canal. Ah, Panama, where the streets are lined with free internet cafes, on every corner a chandlery and expert sailmakers, mechanics and electricians at your beck and call...so Steve would have me believe. His mantra: “We’ll get it done in Panama”.</span></b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0400</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> All’s well and on a better course to the canal. I hadn’t woken Cappy at 0300 as planned since I was still alert and thought he could use the extra zees. Still, a little past 0415 he unsurprisingly appeared in the companionway.</span></b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> Now we see the scattering of ships and boats entering and leaving the canal.</b></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">approaching Panama City</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">approaching Panama City</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panama City</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> 0800 08.55 x 079.31 86F/75%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Anchored in </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Las Brisas de Amador</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"> ("<i>Lover's Breezes</i>").</span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> Dinghy lowered over the side, fingers crossed. We motor-dinghied in to Isla Perico ("<i>Parakeet Island</i>") to get our bearings and find where and how to begin the check-in processes. Whopping desayuno at the Amador Hotel’s restaurant. Although the only patrons, our order had to be repeated throughout the meal: The yogurt, juice and coffee came at once, the eggs much later, the ham (enough for six) after a reminder and having finished everything else, then, after another reminder, came the bacon, also enough for six. </b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Boy was the coffee good - I had a lot, even for me.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> The American dollar is the currency used in Panama so we no longer have the mental exercise of calculating exchange rates.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> Lovely lanky Eleena, a sort of hotel concierge at the Amador, gave us directions to where we'd register for the canal transit.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> After a <span style="font-size: small;">short</span> cab ride <span style="font-size: small;">crossing the Amador Causeway (constructed of rocks removed while digging the Canal) and into a business/industrial area, despite having the exact address on paper, the cabby roamed us around for fifteen minutes before finding </span>the transit office. It was just across from the Canal Port, buzzing with container truck traffic, eight out of ten bearing the omnipresent Maersk SeaLand inscription, and scores of local graffitied buses.</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> That accomplished, we found a bank to beef up cash reserves as the transit fees of $1600 are only payable in cash.</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> Back on Isla Perico relaxing at BarKo, a quiet watering hole, we discovered we had none of the ship’s papers. The “oh, shit” moment. They had to be at the Transit Office, the bank or in the cab. Flagged the first cab we saw and rushed back to the bank. Phew, they were there. Panic subsidified, Hector, our gregarious and informative cabbie, said, “Hey, you wanna go up the hill?”</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Yeah, why not and we ventured the 654 steep feet up winding one-way road to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancon_Hill" target="_blank">Cerro Ancon</a> where the American military, up until the 1977-1999 handover, had supervised canal operations. Now it is in part home to retired officials in old colonial/plantation style houses and, away from residential areas, lushly overgrown. The top afforded a spectacular view of the city, the massive port area and the first section of the canal.</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Saw some small monkeys, "<i>titis</i>", clambering in branches overhead.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> Back to Isla Perico we did some souvenir shopping, found a tire (tell ya wh<span style="font-family: inherit;">at for</span> later) and lugged it all back to the Lib on a panga.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> In answer to your burning questions of "Whaddya need ta get thru the canal?"...</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> The passage takes a long day (or two, as it turned out for us). Hiring an “agent” is recommended to guide you through the bureaucratic maze. His fees may include the lines and handlers and something minimal for his service.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b> Let’s say you go without the agent. You need to process through immigration and customs, you need to register for transit ($0), the boat must be measured, 4-5 line handlers are required (we three count as handlers, others will be hired at maybe $40 each), four 125 foot lines between 7/8 inch and 1.5 inches (rent at $40), fenders, protective auto tires <we 9="" a="" and="" apiece="" at="" bucks="" buy="" couple="" found="" have="" likely="" more="" one="" or="" three="" to="" will="" yesterday="">, a trip advisor whose pay is included in the $1600 transit fee, food and drink for the advisor and line handlers (we're thinking 2 bucks for their bread and water while we have Cristal and fois gras) and a cruising permit ($100-200) in order to stay in Panama over 72 hours; of course it’s impossible to process and pass in less than 72 hours. Also required is that the boat have proper bathroom facilities, a warning horn and sun/rain protection for the cockpit.</we></b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b><we 9="" a="" and="" apiece="" at="" bucks="" buy="" couple="" found="" have="" likely="" more="" one="" or="" three="" to="" will="" yesterday=""> Oh, and entering any government <span style="font-size: small;">building to accomplish the <span style="font-size: small;">bureaucratic transactions requires wearing a collared shirt, long pants and shoes - not flip-flops. No, really!</span> </span></we></b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"></span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Tue 22nd May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0530</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Must’ve conked out early last night ‘cause I’m up with the sun feeling fairly refreshed.</span></b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0800</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Called in to confirm our scheduled visit by the Panama Canal Boarding Inspector which, as we understand, entails merely a measurement to determine our transit fees. Putting the dinghy on the painter we swung in the davits to reduce our overall length as over fifty feet is charged more and we are close to that length. While waiting for them we caught up on flaking lines and general ship-shaping.</span></b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1230</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Hot, sticky and frustrated at not accomplishing any of our long list of tasks, the Inspector, or "<i>admeasurer</i>", was due between 9 and 12. Now it’s 2:30, fer cripesake. At 4:00, still with no contact from the inspector, Steve called them again and was told they had looked, but couldn’t find us. Yeah, right. Why they didn’t call or radio us seems ridiculous. We dinghied in to eat and use the free internet for this graphic-intensive blog.</span></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Wed 23rd May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BPCuuGhV1tk/T-7k8bZ1YyI/AAAAAAAABP4/128MC9Bs55Q/s1600/201205-23+13a+admeasurer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BPCuuGhV1tk/T-7k8bZ1YyI/AAAAAAAABP4/128MC9Bs55Q/s400/201205-23+13a+admeasurer.jpg" height="240" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the "admeasurer"</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0600</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Up and anxious to finally accomplish something. Again scheduled for between nine and noon. At last, at 1330, the inspector came. After waiting six+ hours yesterday and four+ today, it took all of fifteen minutes for the measurement and filling out the forms.</span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Steve, always eager for political and sociological conversations, engaged our inspector. He is of the opinion there are three distinct groups here: gays (who, he says, are <i>infesting</i> the city), those married or spoken for but sorely tempted by the third group - hungry women who far outnumber available men.</b></span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7vV1cSxJCJY/T-7k8__9tvI/AAAAAAAABP4/BA5y49Ac6rc/s1600/201205-23+25a+mike%252C+john-ceviche.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7vV1cSxJCJY/T-7k8__9tvI/AAAAAAAABP4/BA5y49Ac6rc/s400/201205-23+25a+mike%252C+john-ceviche.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ceviche and margaritas</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Motored back around the islands to our original anchorage and hurriedly dinghied to shore in order to continue running bureaucratic errands; Steve to the Port Captain’s Office to buy our cruising permit ($195 + $40 for random fees), Mike and I downtown to pay the $1500 transit fees before the bank closed. We made it in time and decided to wander, starting at the <i>Plaza Catedral</i> in the San Felipe (historic) district. Under major restoration, it was especially interesting. The Canal Museum, little hidden beer bar, Diablico’s for ceviche and margaritas.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> The cab ride back might have been regarded as torturous, but for me it was fascinating. We wound through all kinds of interesting quarters of the city; rich, poor, busy, desolate, commercial and residential.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Back on Isla Perico, Mike caught a lift in a neighbor’s dinghy and I sat with the infamous Mick over martini’s at BarKo waiting for someone from Lib to come get me. When their sullen faces finally appeared, I got the news that we would not be in the “<i>entrada queue</i>” for ELEVEN MORE DAYS!</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Thu 24th May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0700</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> No hurry getting up after last night’s bad news of the long waiting period. Mid morning we dinghied to the island and while looking for a restaurant fell on a pool in an uninhabited corner of the Amador Hotel, evidently closed during this, the slow season. We jumped in before we could be told not to. Steve says it’s better to ask forgiveness than permission.</span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> We walked across the short causeway to Mi Ranchito and, after a leisurely breakfast, around the corner to Abernathy’s Chandlery.</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Fri 25th May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0700</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Up and about. T minus ten days. We motored over to the marina at La Playita at 1130</span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><83.6 gal, 1/2 tank water + $20 docking fee = $375. 2455 engine hours></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sat 26th May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_tDXJdImwoc/T8okb0FrTUI/AAAAAAAABI8/-qFHlpQYZus/s1600/201205-26+05a+Mitsasui+from+Peru.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_tDXJdImwoc/T8okb0FrTUI/AAAAAAAABI8/-qFHlpQYZus/s640/201205-26+05a+Mitsasui+from+Peru.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b5MBFIHDaqk/T8okgG4oHbI/AAAAAAAABI8/PVGkhWN_CUM/s1600/201205-26+07a+Mitsasui+from+Peru+%253D+Acai+seed%252C+boa+vertebrae%252C+ladrillita+stone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b5MBFIHDaqk/T8okgG4oHbI/AAAAAAAABI8/PVGkhWN_CUM/s640/201205-26+07a+Mitsasui+from+Peru+%253D+Acai+seed%252C+boa+vertebrae%252C+ladrillita+stone.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Jewelry from Peruvian artisan Mitsasui</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnZcWYXxqYY/T8urVVJzV_I/AAAAAAAABMU/IBMLENNjvD4/s1600/201206-03+02+jewelry.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnZcWYXxqYY/T8urVVJzV_I/AAAAAAAABMU/IBMLENNjvD4/s640/201206-03+02+jewelry.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(tortuga, on left) acai seed, boa vertebra, ladrillita stone</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sun 27th May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> On a (bad) tip from Melissa, an Isla Perico shopkeeper, we ventured over to Vera Cruz, across the Bridge of the Americas, for a change of scenery, lunch and maybe some shopping.</b></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FU7cGem3ens/T8okgqcUvqI/AAAAAAAABI8/KHIrxrdK4Dg/s1600/201205-27+05a+horse+at+Vera+Cruz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FU7cGem3ens/T8okgqcUvqI/AAAAAAAABI8/KHIrxrdK4Dg/s640/201205-27+05a+horse+at+Vera+Cruz.jpg" height="444" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sfUi5VLLV4A/T8okmSJkYLI/AAAAAAAABI8/aEPaGuPeqA8/s1600/201205-27+09a+bad+coffee+at+Vera+Cruz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sfUi5VLLV4A/T8okmSJkYLI/AAAAAAAABI8/aEPaGuPeqA8/s640/201205-27+09a+bad+coffee+at+Vera+Cruz.jpg" height="640" width="634" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">extraordinarily bad coffee</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> What a disappointment - crappy beach, only a few palapas to choose from and the “town” is a ratty little nothing. Well, at least we had the worst coffee of our lives.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Mon 28th May</b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: 800;">, '12</span></span> Memorial Day</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">0930 08.55 x 079.31 84F/82%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> depart Las Brisas de Amador</span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Anchored in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taboga_Island" target="_blank">Taboga</a> an hour and a half later. Chewy $10 mooring fee. Uncle Ted’s Agua Sol Villa. Pacific Steamship Company ruins. Hiked nearly the entire populated areas. Overnighted.</b></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yoxx1TMTtos/T8oiQ3MEASI/AAAAAAAABIE/m37MhtpfWQk/s1600/201205-28+05a+taboga+Agua+Sol+Villa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yoxx1TMTtos/T8oiQ3MEASI/AAAAAAAABIE/m37MhtpfWQk/s640/201205-28+05a+taboga+Agua+Sol+Villa.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ted’s Agua Sol Villa</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUOUYQ1HxOM/T8oiGHeT4lI/AAAAAAAABIE/Nkq3CgBOyCw/s1600/201205-28+07a+taboga+Lib2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUOUYQ1HxOM/T8oiGHeT4lI/AAAAAAAABIE/Nkq3CgBOyCw/s640/201205-28+07a+taboga+Lib2.jpg" height="416" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lib II at anchor in Taboga</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ERbyBl2ERv8/T8oiYHWsZmI/AAAAAAAABIE/gM589524770/s1600/201205-28+08a+taboga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ERbyBl2ERv8/T8oiYHWsZmI/AAAAAAAABIE/gM589524770/s640/201205-28+08a+taboga.jpg" height="640" width="554" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MNMR9AbAftg/T8oigyz9rTI/AAAAAAAABIE/rQCpUP1RiB8/s1600/201205-28+20a+taboga+anchor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MNMR9AbAftg/T8oigyz9rTI/AAAAAAAABIE/rQCpUP1RiB8/s640/201205-28+20a+taboga+anchor.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pacific Steamship Co. ruins</td></tr>
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<div style="color: #1a1a18; font: 12.0px Verdana; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><i>In the mid 1800’s The Pacific Steam Ship Company was located on El Morro in front of Taboga Island. They had a fleet of 12 vessels and used Taboga to establish their mail and trade services between Chile and Taboga. From time to time there were from 100 to 700 workers employed, mainly from Scotland. They built and repaired passing ships, supplied water, storage facilities and operated a coal mill. They built warehouses for coal, oil, paint and metals. The coal stores, with up to 3000 tons, were conveyed to ships at the pier end on tracks by railway car. On the mainland the new Panama Railroad spelled the end of this prosperity. Rates were raised by the railroad and disagreements prompted the Pacific Steamship Company to move their base to the Peruvian port, Callao.</i></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uoSsDBuhRtM/T8oiZUgm4cI/AAAAAAAABIE/CiYu2mXL1ZM/s1600/201205-28+24a+taboga+John%252C+Mike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uoSsDBuhRtM/T8oiZUgm4cI/AAAAAAAABIE/CiYu2mXL1ZM/s640/201205-28+24a+taboga+John%252C+Mike.jpg" height="596" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AmhOWYDuO-o/T8ojC4E66OI/AAAAAAAABIE/2ht-wg97-M8/s1600/201205-28+33a+taboga+Steve%252C+bunker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AmhOWYDuO-o/T8ojC4E66OI/AAAAAAAABIE/2ht-wg97-M8/s640/201205-28+33a+taboga+Steve%252C+bunker.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WWII bunker</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><u><i>Military and Aviation</i></u></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>WWII: In the 1940’s the US Navy who had a training base on Taboga, used the broad hill just under the Spanish Cross for their artillery practice. The military built bunkers, installed searchlights and anti-aircraft guns on top of the hills. The guns on Taboga and El Morro were used to increase the security of the Panama Canal which was considered at risk.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>The last of the US Navy left Taboga in 1960, but the bunkers can still be seen. Taboga is still visited by retired US Navy servicemen every year, often with their families, who recall their special days on this peaceful Pacific island.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Taboga Island was the site of a German internment camp in 1917. The prisoners were later moved to New York under great protest.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Taboga was at the center of attempted Japanese espionage when Yoshitaro Amana, leader of a Japanese spy ring, planned to set up a business on Taboga so that the Japanese could study ships passing through the Panama Canal. He was exposed and deported to Japan.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Nearby where the old military bunkers were located at the top of the mountain (called the Watchtower) is a modern aviation tower which guides international flights to the Panama airports.</i> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> < courtesy <a href="http://www.tabogaislandhotel.com/about/taboga-island/" target="_blank">www.tabogaislandhotel.com/about/taboga-island/</a> ></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fi89RI7xOfA/T8oi8SGJhWI/AAAAAAAABIE/DIDihkrwb4k/s1600/201205-28+36a+taboga+mountain+woman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fi89RI7xOfA/T8oi8SGJhWI/AAAAAAAABIE/DIDihkrwb4k/s640/201205-28+36a+taboga+mountain+woman.jpg" height="442" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mountain woman</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83Dx8xSXwTA/T8oisKbN_AI/AAAAAAAABIE/Wn-yBgOUM80/s1600/201205-28+52a+taboga+oldest+church.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83Dx8xSXwTA/T8oisKbN_AI/AAAAAAAABIE/Wn-yBgOUM80/s640/201205-28+52a+taboga+oldest+church.jpg" height="568" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
This unassuming church was founded in 1550 and is the second oldest in the western hemisphere</td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9A5C8Mi10MY/T8ojMccs57I/AAAAAAAABIE/PAnEeM4diMk/s1600/201205-28+55a+taboga+shrine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9A5C8Mi10MY/T8ojMccs57I/AAAAAAAABIE/PAnEeM4diMk/s640/201205-28+55a+taboga+shrine.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KlGnbT33Sc0/T8ojZAmu4vI/AAAAAAAABIE/sA1-hrascn0/s1600/201205-28+57a+taboga+shrine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KlGnbT33Sc0/T8ojZAmu4vI/AAAAAAAABIE/sA1-hrascn0/s640/201205-28+57a+taboga+shrine.jpg" height="574" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUqXIxz5boM/T8ojPlbe7nI/AAAAAAAABIE/_LCMy4J_KwM/s1600/201205-28+60a+taboga+steve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUqXIxz5boM/T8ojPlbe7nI/AAAAAAAABIE/_LCMy4J_KwM/s640/201205-28+60a+taboga+steve.jpg" height="616" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qjrzqyluxdI/T8ojae-Sl_I/AAAAAAAABIE/0B2s467-pJ0/s1600/201205-28+61a+taboga%252C+john.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qjrzqyluxdI/T8ojae-Sl_I/AAAAAAAABIE/0B2s467-pJ0/s640/201205-28+61a+taboga%252C+john.jpg" height="610" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ErVkc1Mzlgk/T8oja29mQsI/AAAAAAAABIE/L6H1K1d9Xso/s1600/201205-28+64a+taboga%252C+steve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ErVkc1Mzlgk/T8oja29mQsI/AAAAAAAABIE/L6H1K1d9Xso/s640/201205-28+64a+taboga%252C+steve.jpg" height="450" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Tue 29th May</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Steve checks the hull and stuck knotometer, I took a swim.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">1040 08.47 x 079.32 89F/73%</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> depart Taboga.</span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Glassy sea, negligible wind, sunny. Ships all around us as we zigzag across just beyond where the Canal Lane begins. 1225 back at Las Brisas.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Visited the Miraflores Locks long enough to see a few big’uns drop the 27 feet and pass through...</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>...and to have a wicked good buffet. Three plates-full left me sufficiently sufoncified.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Wed 30th May</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Thu 31st May</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Finally the boys acquiesced to my nagging to gamble and in the late afternoon we cabbed in to downtown Panama City. There were a lot of Indians, diminutive souls in traditional garb, among the masses in the busy downtown streets.</b></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pz5Izz0kl0E/T8uqtxjiFII/AAAAAAAABMM/h8pYSoMnuv4/s1600/201205-31+01+donde+miguel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pz5Izz0kl0E/T8uqtxjiFII/AAAAAAAABMM/h8pYSoMnuv4/s640/201205-31+01+donde+miguel.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Donde es Miguel?</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Dinner at Donde Miguel’s and we're off.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> The first few casinos we found had nothing <span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma Bold","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">but slots & sluts.</span> We finally fell into one, the Gran Hotel Soloy and Fiesta Casino, that had a few blackjack tables and a roulette wheel. Unfortunately there were only six chip colors and therefore a maximum of only six players. Why they wouldn’t open the other table, I don’t know. Eventually a kind lady nodded to me that she was leaving and I scrambled over to take her seat.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> I threw down a Benjamin but since they only had a total of $100 in a given color, gave me $50 worth and two $25 chips. Minimums were 25 cents inside and 5 dollars outside so at every roll nearly every number was covered and usually by several players. After the spin, that the croupier had to sort all those chips and was very slow calculating the payoffs made for a very slow game. I put up with it for maybe a half hour - four or five spins - broke even and we were off.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Told the night life was on Uruguay Street, that’s where we went and found, or rather were coaxed into, Soho, with 1980<span style="font-size: small;">'</span>s flashing lights and decor and where a simple dirty gin martini is a chore to order.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> I haven’t had a girl send me her name and number on a waitress-delivered napkin since, well...never. Gosh was I flattered that the lovely Mariana sent me one from her table across the outdoor deck. I figured either she had a yen for the Kenny Rogers type or was one of the hungry-for-hetero girls the admeasurer spoke of. Built up my courage with another martini and with a nod and a wink signaled her for a rendezvous inside where the salsa was blasting. Boy, was I dancing -<span style="font-size: small;"> the</span> salsa king, I'm sure! But as her soft hand led me into an adjacent dimly-lit, over-upholstered room and cuddled up to me whispering <i>el último precio</i>, I understood. Geez, talk about naivety!</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> I later rejoined my fellow musketeers and we spent a while talking with a trio of young Frenchmen who were on shore leave from a mega-ship about to transit the canal.</b></span></span><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Fri 1st June</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> I wasn’t up till past two by which time Steve and Mike’d hoisted the dinghy on deck to address the new leaks on the other side. The epoxy had cured for several hours and the li'l launch was already back in the water by the time I started working <span style="font-size: small;">through</span> a pot o’ joe.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Not up for yet another trip to the massively annoying Albrook Mall, I stayed aboard while Steve and Mike went provisioning.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sat 2nd June</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Over the past week we’ve picked up enough abandoned tires, at least a dozen, to more than encircle the Lib during the canal transit. <span style="font-size: small;">Conveniently</span>, all but one was already wrapped in plastic taped in place. That prevents black streaks on the hull when we inevitably rub up against other "transiters", tugs or the canal walls.</b></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aTofQ_5ARdY/UHlscDu62dI/AAAAAAAABYQ/O_fxuTfY0oE/s1600/201205-28+07a+taboga+(tires).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aTofQ_5ARdY/UHlscDu62dI/AAAAAAAABYQ/O_fxuTfY0oE/s640/201205-28+07a+taboga+(tires).JPG" height="640" width="468" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> We’ve also located several volunteers for the required quota of line-handlers.</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> A call this morning from Roger, our agent, had us dinghy in to collect the 500 feet of line for the canal transit, the last element required. </b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Late in the day received notice to "<i>be at Buoy #2 off Flamenco Lighthouse at 0600 Monday</i>". Wee-hoo. Finally in the queue. Lines ‘n tires ‘n buoys, oh my!</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Steve is on a cooking jag. Rice, rice with eggs, rice with veggies, rice with rice. Also anything in the freezer because last time, flying home from Huatulco, we had to throw out a bunch; this time we're using it up. His ulterior motive is to turn off the freezer because just sitting at anchor it is a big drain on the batteries.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Sun 3rd June</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Our last day, hopefully, on the Pacific side of Panama we did a bit of provisioning, primarily for our ‘trip advisor’ and secondarily for our two volunteer line handlers, Astrid and Harley. Having a trip advisor is not an option and for him we are required to have a hot lunch (it’s 93º right now), fresh, unopened water bottles and an ‘acceptable’ head. Of course the same is suggested for the line handlers. “Monkey fists” are not sex toys but lines (ropes) with a heavily-woven end and are pitched down upon us from each side of the canal for stability as the turbulent water fills the lock, typically a 26 foot rise or fall. ‘Line Handlers’ are needed during the canal transit to catch and attach the monkey fists to our rented 125’ lines which are then pulled up by the fist-pitchers way above us. </b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> So we swing by the curious Flavio’s homemade s/v with my flash drive to collect the Brazilian music he’d offered (Any<span style="font-size: small;">one</span> but us enjoy Villa-Lobos?). He entertained us with coffee and sailing tales while the music transferred.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Dinghied on to Isla Perico for my last shot at internet for probably a while and Steve’s run. Dinghy back to the Lib...but it wasn’t there! Obviously, a freak-out ensued before we spotted her way out on the edge of the anchorage. Bee-lining towards her, I see Flavio’s hand waving out his portal and we turn in his direction. We’re like, wha?, huh? and he’s all coy, “What do you mean your boat has moved?” He played that game until we were ready to go check her out and finally told the story that began minutes after we’d left him that morning: the wind had picked</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> up abruptly</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> and even after two nights solidly anchored the Lib had begun to drift, slipping from the rock or whatever had been holding us. He said it had miraculously floated between several boats toward the rocky shore by which time five or six dinghies from surrounding boats had deployed and thrown lines to hold her still. Flavio broke in through a hatch, somehow pulled the anchor up, found the key and drove her out to safety.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Late afternoon Steve picked up Astrid and Harley, our volunteer line-handlers and we motored to La Playita for the night, a half hour nearer our morning start-point.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vce8Mmy6AyE/T99ytY7SG-I/AAAAAAAABM0/0nQSXkHbeuA/s1600/map-panama+canal3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vce8Mmy6AyE/T99ytY7SG-I/AAAAAAAABM0/0nQSXkHbeuA/s640/map-panama+canal3.jpg" height="616" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> "From Atlantic deep water to Pacific
deep water the Panama Canal is 50 miles long. It takes eight to ten hours to complete a full
canal transit. The excavation for the Panama Canal was done in the narrowest
points and lowest parts of the Isthmus of Panama. The canal has a 3 set water lock system; the
Gatun Locks on the Atlantic entrance and the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks
on the Pacific entrance. Each chamber of
the locks is 110’ wide and 1,000’ long. </span><span style="color: windowtext; font-size: xx-small;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> The locks were built in pairs making
it possible for two vessels to transit the canal at the same time in the same
direction or different directions. </span><span style="color: windowtext; font-size: xx-small;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> Operations in the Panama Canal are
very simple due to the mechanism developed by its engineers. The water that
raises and lowers the vessels in the each of the locks, <i>“a stairway whose steps are emptied or filled with water”</i>, is
supplied by gravity flow from Gatun Lake.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> The water enters each lock through a
network of tunnels below the lock chambers. The tunnels are based on 10 sets that extend
below the chambers from sidewalls, and 10 sets from the main wall.</span><span style="color: windowtext; font-size: xx-small;"></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: small; line-height: 115%;"> The diameter of the water
tunnels is 4.5’ and water is distributed through 100 openings on the floor of
the chamber. The Panama Canal locks
raise (and lower) ships a total of 85 feet.
Fifty two million gallons of water are used and emptied into the ocean
every time a ship transits the Canal."</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Mon 4th June</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Up at 0500, and well before 0600 proceeded to Buoy #2, as instructed. I circled slowly there for over an hour when we were told, “You are in the wrong place; please go to Buoy #6 and be ready for boarding by the trip advisor at 0815. Yeah, whatever, wait some more, what else is new? Slowly ambled back to where we had anchored overnight then at 0800 to B-6 as re-scheduled. Two+ hours later here came the launch with Amado and Dennis (trainee) our trip advisors. 1015 we’re actually headed into the canal.</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> I’m assigned the helm for the whole shebang and I like it. Amado was cool and clear with his instructions, “More port John, more starboard, stay a quarter mile behind that ship”. Cruising under the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_of_the_Americas" target="_blank">Bridge of the Americas</a>, negotiating ships and boats faster or slower than us, hugging the marker buoys or swinging wide; I enjoyed it all. When we entered <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miraflores_%28Panama%29" target="_blank">Miraflores</a>, the first lock, I was confident and ready for a new challenge and that it was. The bottleneck of a lock condenses currents and turbulence so swinging the wheel to and fro is constant; no auto-pilot now. The second set of locks, Pedro Miguel, lies just an hour ahead.</b></span><br />
<div style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">Besides the locks,
the canal is a winding river-like passage; lush, green, unspoiled by commercial
buildings or houses. In that setting
it’s surprising when ships taller than the trees appear from around a
bend. The occasional locks afford me a
chance to let my guard down for a while, sit back and watch our expert
line-handlers do their thing.</span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">Then, with the excitement of
the locks over, more pleasant hours gliding northward to the Caribbean. This kind of steering is hands-on; I seldom
use the auto-pilot because, as Amado says, <i>estamos
montando la serpiente</i> and always turning one way or the other. Around mid-way the marker buoys reversed
color; now red’s on the right.</span></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> Darn, wish I'd thought of sending you folks links to the canal's <a href="http://www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html" target="_blank">webcams</a>. Y'all might could'a seen us go through. </span></span></b></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> 1600 Word came over the radio that we can’t continue on and must overnight in the northern end of Lago Gatun, just spitting distance from the last set of locks and the short stretch to Colon. We tied to the world’s largest mooring ball (09.15.665N x 079.54.125W) and,</b></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wQUHbv26u1w/T_LgFCm2SQI/AAAAAAAABSo/3aDRYH-svxI/s1600/201206-04+74a+big+buoy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wQUHbv26u1w/T_LgFCm2SQI/AAAAAAAABSo/3aDRYH-svxI/s400/201206-04+74a+big+buoy.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>making the best of the situation, leapt over the side into the fresh water of Lake Gatun while Amado and Dennis disappeared into the distance on their pickup launch.</b></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gz6Ym9pt3Q4/T_LgF3fq4fI/AAAAAAAABSo/dvReuyTqrdQ/s1600/201206-05+05a+mike+back+dive.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gz6Ym9pt3Q4/T_LgF3fq4fI/AAAAAAAABSo/dvReuyTqrdQ/s400/201206-05+05a+mike+back+dive.jpg" height="327" width="400" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-kYtK3fAiE/T_LgEjqbv4I/AAAAAAAABSo/gK2KMnpaD2w/s1600/201206-04+80a+astrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-kYtK3fAiE/T_LgEjqbv4I/AAAAAAAABSo/gK2KMnpaD2w/s400/201206-04+80a+astrid.jpg" height="400" width="330" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FbJ-6WZX6PA/T_LgE-taUNI/AAAAAAAABSo/-Yp4lMCSqUw/s1600/201206-04+81a+mike+chillin%2527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FbJ-6WZX6PA/T_LgE-taUNI/AAAAAAAABSo/-Yp4lMCSqUw/s400/201206-04+81a+mike+chillin%2527.jpg" height="230" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bpaac2RvSXo/T_LgF-sojPI/AAAAAAAABSo/WcYq7lcaeQY/s1600/201206-05+08a+astrid%252C+harley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bpaac2RvSXo/T_LgF-sojPI/AAAAAAAABSo/WcYq7lcaeQY/s400/201206-05+08a+astrid%252C+harley.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Tue 5th June</b></span><br />
<div class="FreeForm" style="color: black; font-family: inherit; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: small;"> We whiled away
the morning and early afternoon swimming and diving off the mooring ball. Mid-afternoon,
about on schedule, our new trip advisors, MacLean and Carlos, arrived and
we’re immediately off to tackle the last set of locks blocking
us from the Caribbean. Again, I took the helm as we did an hour of
long, lazy circles waiting for the huge <a href="http://www.torm.com/tankers" target="_blank"><i>Torm</i></a>
tanker to leave the first chamber. Finally in
and tied to the rough cement sidewall we were surprised to see the giant <a href="http://www.marinetraffic.com/ais/shipdetails.aspx?mmsi=538003290" target="_blank"><i>Noble Express</i></a> come in behind us. I
mean <u>right</u> behind us.</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft8wdy9SJ-Q/T-9ZefANorI/AAAAAAAABQ0/6rE7dscYI84/s1600/201206-05+20a+steve%252C+noble+express.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ft8wdy9SJ-Q/T-9ZefANorI/AAAAAAAABQ0/6rE7dscYI84/s640/201206-05+20a+steve%252C+noble+express.jpg" height="594" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="FreeForm" style="color: black; font-family: inherit; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: small;"> It’s of
the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panamax" target="_blank"><i></i></a><i><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=96599414146021272">Panamax</a></i> class, designed to
fit, barely, in the 110’ wide canal chambers.</span></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UCwrVWd9sDk/T-9b7gkcb1I/AAAAAAAABRI/a7V_SrMLBzA/s1600/201206-05+32a+Noble+Express+tight+fit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UCwrVWd9sDk/T-9b7gkcb1I/AAAAAAAABRI/a7V_SrMLBzA/s640/201206-05+32a+Noble+Express+tight+fit.jpg" height="392" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2½ half foot clearance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: small;"> The <i>Noble</i> is 105’ wide and
like all the big ships she is dragged through by several locomotives on either side
of the chamber.</span></b><br />
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<br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"> We were told that small
boats and big ships never shared a chamber, but we’ve been told many things that weren't so.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Tahoma Bold","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Unfortunately smart-ass, know-it-all MacLean
ignored my suggestion that we secure the bow, not just the stern, to the side
wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sure enough the heavy turbulence
swung us out till we were perpendicular to the wall</span></b>.
Now he wants me to do a 270º to get us right. In that small space it was more than I
thought I could handle safely and called for Cappy. Steve feathered her (like a 3-point turn with
a lot more points) perfectly and brought us up to the tug. We rafted to the tug for the first of three
descents. Unlike when we’re lifted,
there is almost no turbulence on the way down. Tying to the tugboat is a safety measure and much simpler than running a pair of lines from both sides of the boat to handlers on the sides of the lock. In that case, as we are raised or lowered, the lines must be drawn in slowly to maintain tension or slackened before they snap.</span></b></div>
<div class="FreeForm" style="color: black; font-family: inherit; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-size: small;"> Th<span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">rough the last set, it was a
short trip to open water.</span></span></b></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;"> The advisors’</span><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;"> pickup launch collected them in Puerto Cristobal an hour before </span></span></b><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/wV6DrtdGLN8?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: black; line-height: 115%;">sunset
giving us just enough time to cross the busy canal lane to the opposite side of
Bahia Limon and into Shelter Bay Marina before dark.</span></span></b></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Wed 6th June</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Brown as berries and happy as clams with not much to do; wicked cool amenities at the marina and a big fat internet connection.</b></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-myaUMIxnapY/T9950MaVXII/AAAAAAAABNU/sy3tnn06yMQ/s1600/map-central+america_caribbean4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-myaUMIxnapY/T9950MaVXII/AAAAAAAABNU/sy3tnn06yMQ/s640/map-central+america_caribbean4.jpg" height="334" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Thu 7th June</b></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Mike leaves early, taking cabs and buses from Shelter Island to Tocumen Airport outside Panama City. H</span></span>e knew I was considering the same mode of transport and emailed me the run-down from his boarding gate: </b></span><br />
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<![endif]--><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">“The Shelter Bay shuttle
(free) got me to Colon in 40 minutes and dropped me at the bus station. I got right on an express bus to Panama City
($3.15). It is clearly posted. It was old but had air and a movie. The big bag is not an issue as they store it
under the bus. After you are seated in
the bus and have driven awhile they come and collect the fare. Take the bus to the end of the line near
Albrook Mall. Taxis are everywhere and
it cost me 25 dollars. The airport is a
long way out. Easy and no problems. The airport does have free Wi-Fi. Good luck.”</span></span></b></span></i><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Steve and I spent
the day removing the tattered sail and documenting the damage. We stretched it out on a patch of grass for
inspection and photos, bundled it up and left it on the foredeck where Alain
could find it to offer a repair quote. We
hosed the boat down. The freshly-washed boat
covers and tarps were spread over as much of the boat as we could manage. The food was all but gone, fridge and freezer
switched off. The dinghy was partially
deflated and padlocked to the lifeline and outboard motor. This would be a several-month hiatus so we
tried to think of everything. Since
arriving we had been giving away the thirteen tires and when we left only five remained on the dock.</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Fri 8th June</b></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span style="font-size: small;"> With the</span> <span style="font-size: small;">Shelter Bay-Colon shuttle broken down and rumors of lane closures between here and Panam<span style="font-size: small;">a City, I decided to shell out the hundred bucks for a <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Tahoma Bold","serif";">cab</span></span> straight to Tocumen airport.</span></span></b></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma Bold","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> This morning as I was dragging my gear down the dock toward the taxi,
Steve, having previously planned to leave the next day, made some noises about
going with me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I said, “Well, he’s there
waiting, engine idling, so be quick.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Steve is quick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We wound up
sharing the cab straight from Shelter Bay to Tocumen Int’l.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is one canal crossing and if a ship happens
to be passing through it would mean up to a 45-minute wait in the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fortunately, we zipped right across.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An hour and a half later we were checking
bags.</span> </b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b> Poised to head home - </b></span><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: windowtext;">after a long and wild cab from Shelter Bay we are sitting in Tocumen Int'l waiting for my
flight to Houston then on to Charleston.</span></span></b><br />
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Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-85587034343764927392012-01-28T05:05:00.022-08:002014-02-02T12:22:36.815-08:00Return to Vallarta; on to Huatulco<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9A2nHCqpJjE/T4Lrsu0VKpI/AAAAAAAAArU/VM5oIl2VnlA/s1600/201202-11+20.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9A2nHCqpJjE/T4Lrsu0VKpI/AAAAAAAAArU/VM5oIl2VnlA/s640/201202-11+20.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Sat. 1/28/12</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Steve's back to Vallarta.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Fri. 2/03/12</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I'm back. Time to crack a Modelo and get things in order.</span></b> <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RkokvL3pxqM/T4Lr5_PPLrI/AAAAAAAAArc/nDoYEWUYVuI/s1600/201202-11+09.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RkokvL3pxqM/T4Lr5_PPLrI/AAAAAAAAArc/nDoYEWUYVuI/s400/201202-11+09.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YBCTosnW6Og/T5Ktay8NEKI/AAAAAAAAA4E/1X_WgW9C09Q/s1600/map-mexico%252C+central5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YBCTosnW6Og/T5Ktay8NEKI/AAAAAAAAA4E/1X_WgW9C09Q/s640/map-mexico%252C+central5.jpg" height="326" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Sat. 2/04/12 Paradise Village Marina, Nuevo Vallarta</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"></span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Dinghy to lunch w/Ian</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Mon. 2/06/12 </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Paradise Village Marina, Nuevo Vallarta</span></b> </div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Trisha & Derrick of <a href="http://interabanged.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><i>Interabang</i></a> bussed over from La Cruz to visit. While Steve and Derrick worked on the leaky water tank, Trisha and I chatted up in the cabin. She introduced me to the infamous Golfo de Tehuantepec. Apparently that part of Mexico is so narrow and low that winds from the Gulf of Mexico aren’t slowed and come sand-blasting across creating a passage fraught with strong and erratic winds. Yeah, whatever; the most sailing fun I’ve had was under similar conditions when we weathered Point Conception (12 foot waves rated as "steep" with 20-30 mph winds). I told her as much and she’s like well, what if your sails rip and the motor fails and you’re bobbing & floundering and I’m like chai, there’s a story to write home about. Of course, it’s not my boat.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><</span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Wikipedia: "<i>The <b>Isthmus of Tehuantepec</b> represents the shortest distance between the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gulf_of_Mexico" target="_blank" title="Gulf of Mexico">Gulf of Mexico</a> and the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_Ocean" target="_blank" title="Pacific Ocean">Pacific Ocean</a>. At its narrowest point, the isthmus is 200 km (120 mi) across from gulf to gulf. The narrowness of the isthmus, and the gap in the Sierra Madre, allow the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trade_wind" target="_blank" title="Trade wind">trade winds</a> from the Gulf of Mexico to blow through to the Pacific. Normally, these winds are not particularly strong, but periodically, a surge of denser air originating from the North American continent will send strong winds through the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chivela_Pass" target="_blank" title="Chivela Pass">Chivela Pass</a> and out over the Gulf of Tehuantepec on the Pacific coast. This wind is known as the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tehuano_wind" target="_blank" title="Tehuano wind">Tehuanepecer</a></i>."</span><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">> </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We've hit a speed bump. I’ve been on the boat now for nearly a week and Steve for two. We have worked on repairing/replacing one of the macerators and the wind genny - no success with either. Provisioning is a hassle since for any reasonable prices we have to take a half hour bus ride and can only buy as much as we can carry on the oftentimes crowded bus back so what we get is barely more than we consume in a couple days. Thus far we’ve slowed down for these speed bumps, but the crew (me) is getting antsy as is, I suspect, Cap’n Casey. On the one hand the boat ought to be ship-shape, safe and functioning, ideally made that way here in this now too familiar marina; on the other, sharing the working head, forsaking the wind genny and water-maker (the latter two never worked anyway) would allow us to get on the friggin' open water. Now with the needed parts & pieces ordered - to be shipped to Zihuatanejo - just maybe we can get out of here. Meanwhile, as Kimo is fond of saying, it is what it is.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Thu. 2/09/12 </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Bus to La Cruz for lunch & sailing seminar.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never drink a margarita larger than your head</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Cruz marina</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Mon. 2/13/12 </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Bahia Banderas</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Lib II hadn’t been motored or sailed since November. Early afternoon we took her out crossing Banderas Bay to La Cruz. The water was funky so we didn’t swim. We motored past Trisha & Derrick’s S/V<a href="http://interabanged.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><i> Interabang</i></a>, hollered, got no response and decided to practice tacking & gybing in the huge, low-trafficked bay.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Only a couple feet of clearance so it's slow and easy through the narrows that lead back to the marina. I’m at the helm and it was suggested I try my hand at docking. Glad, as it turned out, I didn't. The tide is coming in and the wind is blowing in the same direction. This, we learned, is the worst scenario; both elements push you towards the dock.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Like having sex, entering a slip takes practice to find the sweet spot. On my first try - oh, sorry, we’ll talk about the boat. On our first try, despite intentionally under-shooting the mark we drifted uncontrollably into a collision-course with the dock. The tide pushing us underwater and the wind on what’s above. Steve slammed into reverse just before we added another divot to the soft two-by-four dock frame.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Now bored slip-neighbors are gathering to watch, beers in hand. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We realized we had to approach against the wind and current so as to have some control; then we would be pushed back and could tweak our forward speed as needed.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We motored farther inland to a just-big-enough waterway for an about-face.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> That accomplished, with Steve at the helm and me up front on lookout, neighbors were now hollering slurred, contradictory advice: “Pursch the port bow thrusterer, no the schtarberd one, <i>hic</i>”. </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">After
a couple abortive attempts, we gauged the drift and docked
inelegantly but undamaged, to the gawkers' dismay</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Ian and Judy, our slip neighbors, bid us adieu and left for northern waters to winter.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Not long after they left a new boat took the slip. I helped guide them in as there was the same adverse wind and current that had messed with us. I could tell they were French because they talked funny, so I pulled out my best accent, "Tres bon! Bon travail!". Turns out Stephanie is from Quimper. How 'bout that?</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Tue. 2/14/12 Leave Nuevo Vallarta</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Our plan is to get to the southern tip of Bahia Banderas late in the day, anchor out of Yelapa and tackle the reputedly “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">confused seas</i>” off Cabo Corrientes in the daylight.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1420 20.41 x 105.17</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Anchor aweigh and motored only long enough to leave the marina and get into Bahia Banderas. With the bow aimed at Yalapa for the next couple hours, a command decision came down from the Captain that we were to plug on and round </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Cabo Corrientes</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">. On went the Iron Spinnaker as the new course was not at a friendly sailing angle.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">2345</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Having rounded </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Cabo Corrientes</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> and holding a steady 6K with the main, Steve can finally relax and try for some sleep in these very rocky waters. But not for long…</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Wed. 2/15/12 Somewhere at sea heading for Chamela Bay</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0100</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Otto abruptly quit on me and I couldn’t steer manually - I mean the wheel was locked! This, near the notorious Cabo Corrientes in the black of night, with whipping 20+ winds and volatile currents. Total loss of control: Otto forced the rudder from its most extreme port position to maximum starboard and back again. We went in circles, adrift, rocking like crazy. After a long, scary, helpless interval (probably only five minutes) Otto2, the backup, was engaged and fortunately worked fine.</span></b> <br />
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<b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> <steve> "Very scary loss of directional control while I was napping. I think a gust of wind on fully extended down-wind main overpowered the auto pilot and we were circling and adrift for several minutes until back-up 'auto' saved us."</span></i></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Steve later said it wasn’t the sudden change of direction that woke him but the noise of the errant sail.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1130 19.35 x 105.07</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Set anchor among only three other sailboats in this sizable bay. Exhausted from the ordeal and lack of sleep we tried to rest a few hours; I didn’t really sleep. We had a snack & some beer so we’d spend fewer dineros when we hit shore. There were no noticeable tie-ups so when we dinghied in to check out the scene we went straight for the sandy beach and let the little waves carry us in.</span></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Liberation II in Chamela Bay</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> None of the scant few restaurants on the beach were open so we did an hour of walking and decided there was nothing to do or see and headed back to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lib II</i>. </span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">“Point the nose out”, I repeated as a relatively small wave snuck up while we were still parallel to the beach. Relatively small but enough to nearly flip us and fill the dinghy with a few gallons of sea water. Dinghy shore-landings 101: Angle and timing.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Thu. 2/16/12 Chamela Bay Layover</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> I wish these sailing people would enunciate a bit more clearly; for the longest time I made reference to the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">whisper pole</i> and just this morning Steve corrected me when I referred to the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">boom bang</i>.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1100</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We’ve had our coffee and Steve is now to task at scraping the hull. He free dives with a mask and stiff brush. In the past I’ve seen him go under water for over two minutes but when you’re scrubbing and fighting off natural buoyancy it burns oxygen much faster, so his many little missions last only around 45 seconds. Let’s see, 48 x 14 feet...it should take less than a month. He’s focusing on the keel which he says has the most sea-grass and barnacle growth; more than an inch. Just reported, “There must be ten thousand fish right under the boat”. The frigate birds have been diving all around us the whole morning so the fish may be using us as a shield. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> While he’s on a break I decided to see for myself & popped over the side with mask, fins & scrub brush. Yep, lots of growth. My lung capacity is about half of Steve’s so I scrubbed areas of the hull closer to the water line. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We hadn’t intended to go back ashore but a chat with a passing kayaker informed us there was actually a village back behind the beachfront. This time we rowed the half mile in to avoid dragging the heavy 20hp outboard onto and off of the beach.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advertise much?</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We did find the little village, wandered around and wound up at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Restaurant Prieta</i> on the beach for beers and a bite.</span></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DIY fish tacos</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Fri. 2/17/12 Bahia Chamela to Bahia de Navidad</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0800 19.35 x 105.07 72F/82%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Anchor up on this calm morning and gently motoring round the islands at the south end of Chamela Bay. Prit’near into open waters 12K winds rose and 6’ swells rocked us from the starboard side. By 1000 the swells had grown and wind was gusting to 20. We considered reefing but were seduced by such good boat speed.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1220 19.11 x 104.50 77F/78%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">We had planned to stop at both Tenacatita and Barra, but they’re not that far apart and at the last minute decided against Tenacatita, gybing abruptly 50 degrees seaward. 40 minutes later, having passed Cabeza de Navidad and its dangerous outcroppings, we then gybed a whopping 80 degrees toward land and the Bahia de Navidad in which Barra is nestled. Now with winds averaging <u>23K</u> and more to our back, side-to-side swaying is much reduced. Ah, this is heaven..."<i>Short on money but I'm long on time; slowly sailin' in the sweet sunshine</i>". Rarely under 7.5K, with main and jib overflowing we <u>matched our 9.3K all-time speed record!</u></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">1400 19.13 x 104.42 77F/78%</span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Entering the “protection” of the bay the winds and choppy seas are barely diminished. On our first attempt to anchor the chain caught a full fishing net. We got free of it, not waiting to see if any escaped, and high-tailed it to deeper water. Now, the main is centered but still fully deployed and these heavy winds are pushing us around like a schoolyard bully. After several nerve-wracking circles trying to head dead into the wind so the main could be lowered, </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">we just anchored any old place and quickly. Time for a drink or three.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Not having a great track record with dinghy shore-landings, this time I set out the things that could not stand a dip in the sea: cigs, camera, cell phone. These were packed into a special water-proof bag and that within three separate zip-lock bags, into a big black garbage bag, twisted and tied and finally into a heavy sea-bag - it's a good thing they were! Steve swam in; I rowed. All lined up, nose to shore, I almost had it nailed when a rogue wave with my name on it struck. The dinghy tossed up like a toy, the sea-bag launched into the air and I’m face planted in wet sand. The dinghy weathered it better than I: once on my feet again I see she’s floundering there, feet away, upright and normal, just 20 pounds heavier with</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> water and sand.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Philippe's Bracelet</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Sat 2/18/12 71F, 77%. Bahia de Navidad layover</span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Slow getting going this clear and sunny morning and why not? Ain’t no agenda.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> The towns of Bahia de Navidad are Melaque, where we anchored, and two miles south, Barra. I especially wanted to visit Barra having heard rumors of cool shops, restaurants and, of course, the French baker on VHF who delivers hot croissants to your boat.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> We wandered ‘round Melaque, had a beer or two, but (I) really wanted to see Barra. After half an hour of “The bus passes here, just wave it down” failed, we hailed a cab. Damn! Six bucks instead of $2.50 for two bus tickets. Barra was cool. French pastry & espresso, bought fishing gear; the place just hip enough to attract interesting people, like this guy:</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panaderia - French bakery, Barra<br />
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View from Barra </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Bahia be Navidad</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun. 2/19/12 Bahia de Navidad to Punta Cabeza Negra</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0800 19.13 x 104.42 68F/67%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Anchor up, circled for 20 minutes to tie reef #1 (Scaredy cats from our entry debacle). </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0820 </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">On our way. </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1040</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Tow generator deployed; when under sail we’ll see whether it feeds the batteries.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1200 19.00 x 104.25 76F/69%</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Motor/unreefed main/jib as we pass Manzanillo. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Solo spinnaker for a couple hours but mostly motoring this day. 1700 doused the spinnaker so we could beeline and reach Punta Cabeza Negra before dark; too little too late, as it turned out.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1730</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">WEE-HOO, I caught a fish - maybe 4#, 15”. Surprisingly, Steve was a bit squeamish when I delegated him as head fish head remover. While he fired up the on-deck grill, I completed the cleaning. First I grilled the still-beating heart and with a splash of Cholula popped it down, something primal in me I guess. Then the rest went on the fire and we ate it all in short order; no sides no condiments just the freshest fish possible. Over-cooked and with no seasoning it wasn’t exactly delicious, but for us, manna from heaven.</span></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chef Esteban</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">2030 18.36 x 103.42 79F/66%</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Really dark heading into the small bay behind Punta Cabeza Negra. We steered, as best we could judge, to the center and anchored as soon as we saw 35’ depth. Racked up 79.2 nm today. Still sated from our fish kill, we didn’t even mention dinner - just had a couple chatty drinks and enjoyed the incredibly bright stars before hitting the hay.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Overnight the boat lay into the wind but the waves were at our side. That made for a rocky night - rocky enough, we assume, to have launched our now missing fender into the bay.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1000 18.36 x 103.42 75F/70%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Sunny, mostly clear. Eggs over easy, hash browns w/chorizo by Steve.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1120 81F/63%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Depart. Lots of sea turtles lazing on the surface.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1300 18.26 x 103.40 84F/62%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Main & jib up, motor off, going 6K. Whales! Several of them spouting & breaching. As the day progressed the wind slowed so we gybed to and fro to make use of any or all of the sails - to no avail, so at...</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1630 18.15 x 103.31 86F/60%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Motoring an 85 degree rhumb line to Maruata. </span></b></div>
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<b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><steve> "Very sunny and hotter today. I got too much sun on my back. Bahia Maruata is today’s anchor. Probably about a 60/40 sail/motor split (much better than yesterday’s 90/10 split). Need to refuel in Zihuatanejo and empty jerry jugs into fuel tank tomorrow. Also will call Jim Dixon tomorrow to make sure shipment is en route."</span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1830 18.16 x 103.20 84F/60%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Anchor down. Took a sunset swim from the boat. The water was appreciably warmer than at my last dip. Settled in to chat over guacamole and beers. 42nm today.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> In the dark of night hundreds of fish darting around triggered thousands of bioluminescent plankton. Not your whole name, but if you write quickly you can pee a sparkly letter or fanciful design on the water’s surface, unless, of course, you're a girl. An instructional video is available for $39.99.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Tue. 2/21/12 Bahia de Maruata to Caleta de Campos</span></b><br />
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Slept in till about 0900.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> After the coffee & a cig or two we
rowed the dinghy in to wander the small village, covering the few roads
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Met a cool RV couple with a lot of sailing experience. I was envious of the guy’s six-pak of blues harps and his guitar. I brought one harp but it’s rusty and crushed so several reeds fail. Also met two girls from Bourguignon who’d arrived here by bus. They were being entertained by a local seiner who would in turns net a dozen or so fish, run up, dump them into a little sand pit beside the girls and repeated until there were 40 or so.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We assumed they were to become today’s ceviche (the fish, not the girls). Steve and I, the only customers at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">El Choro</i>, observed all this while sharing a huge, delicious <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ceviche Camaron</i> with orange slices & Indios.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">black sand</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We rowed back and after a late morning swim around the boat, we were off.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1230 18.16 x 103.20 86F/62%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Anchor up under a bright sky.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1400 89F/60%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Huggin’ the coast. Lots of whales spouting and breaching. Winds barely reached 5K; not a single sail up the entire day.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1830 18.04 x 102.44 86F/60%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Anchor down in</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Caleta de Campos at sunset, we’re one of three S/Vs at anchor.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We rowed in after dark; our driest beach landing yet. The little town’s roads are relatively well-paved and climb steeply from where they begin behind the beach, drop just as steeply then climb again. Good workout. Nearly everything was closed up but we did find a tiny tienda and got a couple beers for the walk. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We explored over to the breakwater, sitting, small-talking when we happened to look around surprised to find a lovely young señorita from nowhere suddenly standing in the shadows a few yards away. Our eyes had somewhat adjusted to the dark and could glimpse her long black linen dress, black tresses rolling off her shoulders. She stood quietly, dog at her side.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Steve and I mumbled an awkward “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">uh-hola!</i>” Polite conversation ensued and we all stepped closer while Luna, with one brown and one blue eye, scampered around and between us. The Mexican girl’s complexion was quite fair and her English too, so I suspect she's part gringo. Abby said she “watched” the house adjacent to the cement slab, a bridge to the breakwater, on which we stood. As our chat ended and we headed back down the hill to the beach I convinced myself that she drifts around the breakwater on moonlit nights watching and waiting for her seafaring lover as she has for hundreds of years. Alas, she hadn't realized I had returned.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Where the hill met the beach was a nondescript hut with a few dangling lights and modest seating. We were able to get a couple beers and presently watched loads of fish being delivered. Fish thrown on ice, boys paid seemingly by a rough count and off they went, probably to sleep a bit and start fishing again in the morning.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Wed. 2/22/12 Caleta de Campos layover</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Up with the sun I got the coffee going, cleaned up the galley and crushed my beer can pipe as we were told to expect a cursory Mexican Coast Guard boarding some 20 miles south. I’m all set to head out, Steve awakes and I’m like, “Anchor up, Cappy?” And he’s like, “Nah we’re staying another day.” And I’m like all quiet and bummed. Cursing under my breath but making the best of it I took a late morning dip off the boat; Steve did a bit of hull scrubbing.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1130</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Steve swam the 1/4 mile to shore and ran the southern arc of this small bay.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1215</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Finished my morning cocktails and by whistling and sign language it was communicated that I should row and he’d swim to the same northern bay beach landing we used last night. The swimmer met me waist-deep and with the painter guided the dinghy thru the surf, dryly. With the change of clothes I brought he took the high road and I the low. He climbed those steep roads in search of goods; I walked the beach with gastronomic intentions. In short order I found <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Enramada Juanita</i>. Not the first time as the only customer in a palapa, I’ve learned that, yes, you wait forever but what you get will be really fresh because it’s being made from scratch. Our ceviche the other day couldn’t have been fresher and the pescado I was eating was surely swimming earlier this morning.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Steve found me just as I was finishing the second whole fish and proudly announced he’d found the rum we were in desperate need of. Slipping it out of his backpack, the label was clear: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tradicional Tequila</i>”. Doh! Well it surely won’t go to waste and Juanita, the proprietor, made everything right by having rum delivered to her palapa and thence to our table. How ‘bout that!</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> I was inspecting a pile of coconuts off to the side and she asked if I’d like one. In moments two arrived at the table, bottoms flattened by a deft machete swipe and tops opened with another deeper swipe.</span></b><br />
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la cuenta</div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Big Juanita herself did the knife job and preparation which included spearmint in the milk and a nice chunk of the coconut’s meat on the side. How could things get any better? Well, by her suggesting we pour in some rum. We’d already had beers and sampled the tequila and to get the right proportion of rum to milk required adding quite a bit. Can’t recall rowing the dinghy back that sunny afternoon.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Caleta de Campos</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><Added 9 gal. fuel from our jerry jugs.></span><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Thu. 2/23/12 Caleta de Campos to Ixtapa</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0545 18.04 x 102.44</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Anchor up, pitch dark, rocky swells. Bad day for Steve – he slept a lot. If I had had what he had, I’d’ve had a headache like he had. Wait, I did but I don’t...</span><span class="Unicode">‽</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></b>en route to Ixtapa </div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Long, uneventful motoring day. Anchor down off Ixtapa around 1700. (@17.40 x 101.39 for fellow OCDers).</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Fri. 2/24/12 Ixtapa to Zihuatanejo</span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> A brief row over to Isla Grande for light lunch and it was decided to motor next door into Zihuatanejo to get the lay of the land before Monday’s expected shipment.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1430 Up anchor; 1630 back down 89F/61%</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We’re one of 17 S/Vs in the harbor and 30 M/Vs. As one does to get a sense of sufficient anchoring distance from neighboring boats, we slowly weaved through the bay like a dog looking for a place to shit. Just about to squat, we were welcomed with, “Yer kiddin’ me, right?”, hollered by a hands-on-hips dick-wad who apparently thought we were too close. I heard him clearly but immediately sized him up as a jerk and pretended I didn’t and made him say it three times. We moved without conversing.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> First thing in a new place I usually dive in. Not here - the water had stuff in it; dirty-looking stuff. Glad I didn’t go in because a little online research showed it to be way past the safe poop-content level: 1500 parts/million fecal coliforms. Wouldn’t want to bump into a fecal coliform! Got my fill of that in La Cruz.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Sat. 2/25/12 Zihuatanejo layover </span></b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">(check out Zihuatanejo.net)</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Motor-dinghied to explore the bay. Where’s the gas station? Where even is the dinghy dock? Went down a small channel deeper into Z-town that stank to high heaven: crap and corruption, shit-brown water, yet plenty of birds and our first alligator sighting maybe twenty feet from our li’l launch. This is the nastiest thing ever described as a body-of-water. It wouldn’t be a miracle to walk across it. We 180ed and got the hell out, rounded into cleaner water and slid up on the sand in the bay proper, bone dry with the help of a tiny boy and one of the ever-present men there to help for a buck. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We tried to register at the harbor master’s office but were told in Spanish, “You don’t speak Spanish? You’re in Mexico!” Uh, okay fine, asshole, we won’t register. In a way I agree with him as I feel people in my country should be able to understand my language. On the other hand, in the U.S. we freakin’ bend over backwards to absorb and accommodate foreign speakers. Besides, our registration here is to their benefit as there are fees. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> It’s a cool town, larger and more commercial than we’ve seen since Cabo San Lucas, yet with really interesting stores: lots of tchotchke shops but also plenty of zappateria, panateria, zapoteca (Indian art), grocery, hardware, even a place that might repair my camera; really most of what you might need for provisioning, simple repairs or souvenirs within a mile of the sandy shore.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ajEF6jXP3w/T5HfpmyPPKI/AAAAAAAAA2E/C7DTAAtPlgo/s1600/201202-25+01a+zihuatanejo+church.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ajEF6jXP3w/T5HfpmyPPKI/AAAAAAAAA2E/C7DTAAtPlgo/s400/201202-25+01a+zihuatanejo+church.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zihuatanejo church</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dear girl's fourth visit to our table; we finally bought something</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Algae canal</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Uncharacteristically, Steve was slow going and I was anxious to tool around town. We got the important stuff - rum, juice, beer - and exchanged dollars for pesos. Had a nice lunch and after a brief baño in the sea, jumped back into the dinghy.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun. 2/26/12 Zihuatanejo layover</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">modern caves</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I wasn't about to question the 10-peso admission fee for this museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mexican Navy</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Mon. 2/27/12 Zihuatanejo layover</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> The new wind-genny and macerator arrived at the Harbor Master’s pier via a fellow in San Diego justifiably rumored to get things done. Steve dinghied in to get the shipment.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Now we need an electrician and a plumber as our best DIY efforts were in vain. There is no fueling dock, so naturally no water or flushing services. However we were able to get diesel delivered by panga in 50-liter jugs and siphon them into the tank. 12.5 pesos/liter, we got 200. </span></b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">(Hilda, Ishmael y Esteban 755-5508, 581).</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Nayo, the local go-to guy showed up with Sergio, an electrician, and I gave him a cursory explanation of our four main concerns: windy-genny, fore head, solar panels & tow-genny, in that order. </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">They left me feeling that at least some of them would become operational and in a couple days we’d be sailing south with lots of free electricity</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">. Steve has threatened to disconnect the amp-eating freezer which houses my precious ice cubes so I have a real interest in fat and happy batteries. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> 3rd day here. A continuous parade of pangas pass by from sunrise to well after sunset (with no lights). Most are going fishing but some are out with a half dozen tourists heading, I suppose, to the “cleaner” beaches on the south side of the bay. There are also always a couple running errands like Nayo and Hilda did for us today.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Tue. 2/28/12 Zihuatanejo layover</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Sergio spent nearly the entire day on board working on various projects. Mid-day the ever-vigilant Nayo swung by to check on his progress. Nayo's family has a restaurant and he brought us a big bowl of their homemade ceviche which, along with some of our guac & chips, we shared with Sergio.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> I guess sea water is good for you; something Mother Nature devised for our health, since she made us pretty salty creatures to begin with.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Taking her cue we have saline IVs, inhalers and such and I always feel better after a day swimming at the beach. But enough is enough. Now, although I feel clean and have had no reported BO, after nearly a fortnight without a fresh water rinse I’m encrusted and my trunks stand on their own.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Yet another port - they’re blurring together. Here, like Vallarta, where we’re staying for a length of time will perhaps remain in memory longer. Otherwise it’s just another bay on the way; a little bigger or smaller, more lights or fewer, didn’t get laid - nothing significant to remember after so many of ‘em.</span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Among the mundanities I’ve yacked about, I haven’t mentioned much about groceries. They’re an ongoing hassle. In Vallarta it took hours for the round trip bus ride and while shopping at the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">super-mercado</i> with only four arms between us we could only buy so much. Especially since bottled water and juice is bulky and at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">"a pint a pound</i>’", it’s heavy. Ultimately we hired a cab and bought in quantity. Lots of fruit is locally grown and relatively cheap. Club soda and half & half are nearly impossible to find. Bread is fresh, delicious and cheap. Little loaves the size for a BIG sandwich are 10-15 cents. Coffee beans are expensive and not very flavorful. Produce is priced in KGs, so eight bucks for avocados sounds high until you do the math. Cheese is mostly bland and pricy. Overall groceries may be cheaper here but not by much.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Wed. 2/29/12 Zihuatanejo layover</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Sergio’s final repairs. The fore macerator seems fine - it only needed a nickel-sized rubber washer (damn you Kim); solar panels are providing juice after replacing the external wires; the brand new wind-genny is not spinning and whether the rewired tow-genny works remains to be tested.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1930</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We rowed to shore, accepting Sergio’s invitation for light supper. Before we caught a cab, I took a much needed fresh-water shower at a 10-peso public baño.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Steve had been to Sergio’s house the day before to discuss parts ‘n pieces for the boat so trusting his steel-trap memory he had the cab drop us at the outskirts of town. We walked down this dark and dingy avenue, custom made for a mugging. Sure enough, he led us right to Sergio’s locked iron gate. Inside, the house is a brightly painted living area/workshop with hundreds of spare parts neatly stacked in a kitchen-sized corner behind the sofa.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We were treated to his wife’s handmade uh, well they were smaller than a tortilla and thicker, puffier and topped with some mashy stuff and cheese. A couple salsas on the side, chips and cucumber water. (Why can't I get a job as a food critic?) </span></b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Anyway, it was all good, fun and new for us.</b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> I especially had fun with Osiris, their four year old boy. He knew as much English as I did Spanish, so sign language came in handy. I had him get paper and pencil and we took turns drawing for each other.</span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> We were about to go get a cab but Sergio insisted on driving us back to the dinghy. Osiris and I rode in the back of the bouncing pickup and we laughed and laughed.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> We had 50 liters of water (4 pesos/liter) delivered by Hilda, poured it in bottle-by-bottle then rowed in for a leisurely lunch and final provisioning. Our intent is to leave mid-afternoon and sail overnight to reach Acapulco mid-morning.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1530 17.37 x 101.33 86F/61%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Anchor up.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1700 17.25 x 101.24 90F/58%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Main & jib up but still motoring.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Steve’s more accomplished than I at everything on the boat so when the conversation turns to fishing I take a superior attitude (since I caught one) and say things like, “What kind, what size and at what time would you like one?”, as if I can pull them from the sea at will. No sooner had I begun one of these fantasy braggings than the bungee indicator slid up and smacked the safety rail with a “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bing</i>”. We had a hit! Another tuna, this one 19.5” and maybe 5 pounds. Big enough</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> that we ate fish for a couple days. Catching is no longer a mystery – it’s the cleaning, filleting and not over-cooking I need to improve upon.</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> This time I did the butchering on the polyethylene cutting board instead of getting blood all over the deck (duh!) and took time with a proper flexible knife to render a pound or so of boneless filets.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">I can't see how minutes-old fish could harm a body so next one I'm eating some of it sushi-style. Steve makes excellent rice for the base, we have soy sauce and there's some green stuff growing on the hull that might pass for seaweed. I’ve heard that puffer fish is delicious and hope I catch one to serve Steve. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1900</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Perfect half-moon with clear skies allows good on-deck visibility.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">2000 17.18 x 101.21</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Spinny down, main centered for motoring. Steve takes 2100-0200 shift.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Fri. 3/02/12</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0200 17.04 x 100.49 82F/72%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">My five-hour shift begins.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0500 16.59 x 100.35 82F/72%</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0600 16.57 x 100.29 82F/73%</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;"> </span></b>Sea Turtle</div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0700</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Steve’s shift.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1000 16.51 x 100.05 83F/71%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Lots of sea turtles, 20-30 in a half hour, mostly floating motionlessly with little regard to our passing even within a few meters.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1100 16.51 x 99.59.999 Wee-hoo! Kids, come watch the odometer roll over!</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> Five miles to Acapulco. With 3/4 tank if we top off here we can make Huatulco even, if necessary, without a breath of wind.</span></b><br />
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approaching Acapulco<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1200</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Anchor down, we rowed the dinghy in to inquire about diesel and oil for the next oil change. We were told that one can’t buy oil unless one has a club membership - well, la-dee-freakin’-dah! To gas up we’d have to row back to the boat to get ship’s papers, row in again with them, row back and bring the boat in. We noticed a couple motor yachts, music playing, hogging the fueling area with no apparent agenda and wondered whether we’d have to sit idle while they took their sweet time moving out. Screw it - we’ll count on there being enough wind to minimize consumption and they can keep their stinkin’ gas.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> I took a baño in the bay, we ate rice, some of our tuna pan-fried in tomato and onions, bitched a while over beers then at...</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1530</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Anchor up and outta this inhospitable, over-rated, downright stuffy non-paradise. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">And where’s the damn cliff divers? Elvis would be outraged at our treatment.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> About my Acapulco Bay baño - there occurs a curious reaction between Dr. Bronner’s + sea water. It creates a powdery white substance that takes some rubbing to remove. I was streaked with it.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Acapulco - (another) abandoned hotel</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1600</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Motor off, spinny up.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1800 16.40 x 99.43 90F/58%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Toying between 115 and 135 degrees to find optimum spinnakerage.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">2100</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">I must have inadvertently hit the “track” button which instantly and automatically puts the boat on its most recently programmed course, probably around Santa Barbara. Otto yanked the wheel from my hand and set it spinning to obey the order, sending the spinnaker to the opposite side, laying across and winding around the mast, spreaders and various halyards. Twenty minutes of gentle prodding got it down and I really hope there is no damage; I haven’t budgeted for sail repairs. Finished my watch while Steve slept, probably not soundly.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">2400 16.24 x 99.17 83F/73%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Bright half-moon shining across the water. Steve’s watch begins.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Sat. 3/03/12</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0200</span></b> <b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Lots of porpoises darting around lit up by biolumes.</span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0300</span></b> <b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Tartar Shoal calls for wide berth.</span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0400 16.17 x 98.53</span></b> <b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">No ships on radar all night.</span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0500 16.12 x 98.27</span></b> <b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Only 280’ deep due to Tartar Shoal although 12 miles out!</span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0600</span></b> <b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Back on course most direct. John’s watch begins.</span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0700 16.09 x 98.34 83F/76%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun just coming up & we’re headed straight toward it, which later, mercifully, will put me in the shade of the Bimini. I’m brown as a berry so I don’t need any more sun.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0900 16.04 x 19.21 83F/75%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Can’t see land but we’re not as far out as the shipping lanes; I’ve seen some whopping container ships pass on starboard. First they’re a blip on radar, then come into sight, zip past and become a blip again. They must be doing over 20k.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1000</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Damn dinghy davit worked loose and its stainless support pole swung wildly. Hard to work on it leaning out over the rocky sea but I was able to secure it temporarily until Cappy wakes up to help.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1100</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Still headed nearly due east, still thankfully in the shade.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1300 15.58 x 97.56 89F/64%</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">With the temperature rising and sun climbing past the protective Bimini, it’s getting hot! Took a foot-cooler off the swim deck. Water noticeably warmer, clearer, almost aqua.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1430</span></b> <b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Finally some wind. This is probably the most serious sailing we’ve done since the Sea of Cortez passage - two nights and days so far, so we catch a wink when we can. While I was doing so I got a call for assistance: Cappy was raising the spinnaker as the wind had climbed into the teens for the first time today.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> On deck still groggy I took the dousing lines while Steve maneuvered our course to a favorable hoisting position. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">[While releasing the kite from the sock or dousing it, I have learned to take the lowest stance, i.e. on the deck on my ass. That way I can’t fall down and can lean way back to gauge my progress.]</i> Well, the wind grabbed that sucker so quickly and so forcefully I was not only yanked to my feet but slightly into the air and dragged to the port lifeline, my upper half stretched out over the water with just inches from the bitter end in my clenched fists. Seconds later I’d’ve let go but Steve got there in time to help muscle it back under control.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> With the spinnaker up and doing an admirable 7k we could see last night’s damage: a 4” rip in the center and a smaller one farther up.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> We had planned to take a rest stop in Bahia Chacahua but we just couldn’t waste this good wind. It is HOT and a bucket bath off the swim deck really helped.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1800 15.48 x 97.22 89F/58% </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun falling, wind falling, spinny fallen; we’re motoring. Chowed down on our tuna, Nayo’s ceviche, guacamole & rice. Another bright, moonlit night.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">2300</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Steve’s watch</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun. 3/04/12 Angel Puerto to la Crucecita (Huatulco)</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0100</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Final stretch of motoring. 7 mi. off shore.</i></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0200</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tried jib but too much pinch – no help.</i></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0300</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cutting closer as approach Huatulco.</i></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0400</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">May get there before sunrise! Only 13nm.</i></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0500</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Slowed down to under 3 kts to wait for sunrise (sailing with jib @ 3-3.5 kts).</i></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><i> </i></span></b>entering Bahia Santa Cruz</div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">0700</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Arrived hours earlier than expected. Anchor down in Bahia Chahue outside marina.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> The last 3 days and nights have been a bit grueling having had no layovers. Nappy time for Steve.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">1100 15.45 x 96.07 87F/54% 369nm trip miles.</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Docked smoothly in Chahue Marina, both sleep deprived and plum worn out.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> This marina is cheaper than Paradise Village, but sorely lacking amenities: one toilet, no mirror for shaving, and one dribbling outdoor shower. That’s it – no pool, Jacuzzi, restaurant or bar. And the dock water is non-potable. The edge of a small town is a mile or so away and there’re no buses from the marina – fortunately we needed no provisions. We will on our return but there’s a secret “marina car” – a beater someone drove down from British Columbia and just left. Sheila knows where the keys are kept and when asked about a license and insurance, “Nah, this is Mexico”. </span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> No
TV, no problem; no showers, we have the ocean; no internet, like, OMG!
Haven't been online for over a week; it's good to finally get a
connection and stuff stuff onto the blog. I hate not finishing what I star...</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Headed home in a few days, next leg may take us to or through the Panama Canal.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Mon. 3/05/12</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Propane tank #1 empty, switched to #2.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Ride into town with Sheila to help with her air conditioner.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">1630</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Dock party. </span></b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><Wealth of knowledge. Tom/Lauridonna (47’ Catalina), François (Vietnam boat person), Rick (no spinnaker), Blonde hotel, Sheila & friend, and Larry, the way his comical mind works></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">Tue. 3/06/12 </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif;">Closing notes…</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Sheila drove us to the little Huatulco airport. They have limited service - we took the one daily flight to Mexico City.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> I flew home in a great inefficient 18-hour arc via LA and DC.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> On the long leg, LA to DC, I got an aisle seat in the middle section of the 2-3-2 configuration. A big, friendly guy had the other aisle, “By the way, I’m Brian”, hand stretched across the empty middle seat. Good - a quiet, spacious five hour flight with a movie. It got better. Big Brian moved, I assume, to a larger exit row seat so up went the arm rests and down went me across the three open seats. I was lucky to find a blanket, not so much for warmth but because it feels good to sleep under at least a little cover. I caught a few zees and spent the sunrise in the galley chatting with the crew over fresh coffee, listening to their passengers-from-hell stories. Meanwhile some SOB took my blanket and sure enough the flight to Charleston was cold.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> But I got a warm welcome home when Gabrielle
and Liam (with his freshly broken arm) surprised me with a ride home from the
airport.</span></b><b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> Next passage probably late April…</span></b> </div>
Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-24142805096850485962011-11-07T12:06:00.001-08:002014-02-02T11:06:33.364-08:00Cabo to Nuevo Vallarta<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sun. 11/6</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I
was a bit concerned about the long watches with only the two of us and
my lack of seamanship for the Cabo/Puerto Vallarta crossing.
Fortunately, early this morning a fellow (Jeff) we had spoken with the
night before came buzzing over in his dinghy to see if we were still
interested in having him help crew. From the conversation I overheard
while Steve gave him the nickle tour I gathered that he clearly
knew his aft from a hole in the ground. We snapped him up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">A panga is a small hard-bottom outboard fishing boat whose main purpose here is to shuttle</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">
people to and from boats at anchor, the beach and mainland docks for
provisions or touring. While Jeff dinghied back for his surfboard &
stuff on the <i>Makala</i>, the boat he was leaving, with expert finger-whistling (thanks, Dad) and artistic Tharpesque gesticulations</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">,
I summoned a panga for last-minute provisioning. Above and beyond his
duty, pilot Julio led me to a store much cheaper than that in the
marina, helped me make selections and carried the majority of the booty
back to his panga for our return to <i>Lib II</i>.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1000 22.52 x 109.52 79F/46% Anchor up and struck a rhumb line</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">
to Puerto Vallarta. Chip will appreciate that for the next 20-some
hours we had to motor. Mid-day Jeff rigged a makeshift fishing line
with a rubber squid and whipping twine. A bungee cord was the hit
indicator and near sunset we did get a hit. Something fairly big took
everything but the bungee - the most excitement of the day. <<i>insert yawn></i>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon. 11/7</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The boys are hibernating and I’m on the sunrise watch, 2-6 am, and a beautiful sunrise it is. Flying fish are gliding across the water’s surface, staying airborne for a surprisingly long time, sometimes covering 40-50 yards.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0300 21.59 x 108.02 motoring @7k.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">We had to motor much of the first 24 hours.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0430 Tired of the whine & expense of motoring, Steve appeared in the companionway with sailing intentions. Up went the main, out went the jib and off went the motor. Ah, the blessed quiet of sailing; now under full sail rolling along at a respectable 6+kts.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Steve re-retired and I enjoyed the sunrise, the quiet and strong coffee.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0900 21.47 x 107.34 86F/69%</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1230 21.40 x 107.18 86F/66% 'Ot 'n sticky, I asked for a gentle keel-hauling. Request immediately granted: got a rope around me and off the aft swim deck I went. I had no idea how fast a few knots was and once or twice got sucked under. A good example of a bad idea. I did get cooled off, though.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0d1RkX6Fzc/TsVWDDVbmUI/AAAAAAAAAJM/GW6wqyMSsNo/s1600/201111-07+07.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0d1RkX6Fzc/TsVWDDVbmUI/AAAAAAAAAJM/GW6wqyMSsNo/s400/201111-07+07.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1500 21.33 x 107.12 87F/63% While raising the spinnaker the sock’s dousing lines got away from us and with no way to control the sail, things could have gone to hell. Fortunately, with the help of a push-pole and some luck, we managed to snag the lines and raise the spinnaker. Now, with only that sail up, we’re hitting 5-6k. With the "kite" alone the boat seems to rock around less and is much quieter than the loud, annoying snap every time the main or jib comes out of a luff.</span><br />
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Jeff came up with another DIY fishing idea - slice up a shiny Heineken can, add hooks & line and toss it over.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lst2yqp0dgk/TsVWkaBr8vI/AAAAAAAAAJU/aq7kOV1cmq8/s1600/201111-07+08.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lst2yqp0dgk/TsVWkaBr8vI/AAAAAAAAAJU/aq7kOV1cmq8/s400/201111-07+08.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YuB4XBDfOkc/TsVXTzTEbqI/AAAAAAAAAJc/8ay1seteU9s/s1600/201111-07+10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YuB4XBDfOkc/TsVXTzTEbqI/AAAAAAAAAJc/8ay1seteU9s/s400/201111-07+10.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Didn't catch anything but it was something to do.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue. 11/8</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Sunrise watch again, as I prefer.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6I6mvND6Dpc/TsVPN8rbjLI/AAAAAAAAAIs/YsjlBBt__5M/s1600/201111-08+02.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6I6mvND6Dpc/TsVPN8rbjLI/AAAAAAAAAIs/YsjlBBt__5M/s640/201111-08+02.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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</span></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0430
20.55 x 105.56 Only the spinnaker has been up since yesterday afternoon
and we’ve averaged 6-7k but since the wee hours haven’t gone under 7k.
Nice 13-19k winds.</span><br />
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> As
I work through a fresh pot of coffee, the boys are catching much-needed
Zees. So there were no witnesses when, at 0505, I hit a <b>new record 9.3k</b> with just the spinnaker.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OyvJumqX9lA/TsVPsCNnG-I/AAAAAAAAAI0/DyfaN5jv964/s1600/201111-08+03.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OyvJumqX9lA/TsVPsCNnG-I/AAAAAAAAAI0/DyfaN5jv964/s640/201111-08+03.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0700 Rolling in to Bahia Banderas.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0730 20.46 x 105.39 84F/72% Spinnaker down; motoring across Banderas Bay. Saw a puffed up puffer fish.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1015 20.41 x 105.17 87F/63% </span> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"> Tied
up at Vallarta Yacht Club in Paradise Village, Nuevo Vallarta - our
first slip since San Diego. It’s convenient not to need the dinghy to get to land. Bummer that what
with the oil slicks, fish corpses and jetsam we can’t, or oughtn’t to,
jump off and swim.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> The
dock fees are high but include some nice amenities: hot showers &
jacuzzi, boat water, weekly holding tank flush, mail drop and three
swimming pools. We’re also within minutes of laundry machines, a
grocery store and a Starbucks with free wi-fi.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ioloijWxqHI/TsVQO24xAfI/AAAAAAAAAI8/QsDW5QaNtQU/s1600/201111-08+12.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ioloijWxqHI/TsVQO24xAfI/AAAAAAAAAI8/QsDW5QaNtQU/s400/201111-08+12.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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</span><br />
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Time
is not so important - fortunate because the U.S. west coast clock went
back an hour but the Mexican clock did not...until a couple days later.
Then en route to Puerto Vallarta we crossed a time zone, adding an
hour. For further confusion, our slip is prit’near on that time line so
what time it is depends on which direction we walk from the boat. For
simplification I have decided it’s either day (rum-time) or night
(margarita-time).</span></div>
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<i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Cripes, this trip took three weeks. I could’ve flown here in 4 hours!</span></i><br />
<br />
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> We took Jeff to a farewell lunch and now he's headed farther south, to Manzanillo, surfboard in tow.</span><br />
<br />
Ah, now for a long, sorely needed jacuzzi and rum punch.</div>
</div>
Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-40699707709734717212011-11-02T11:40:00.001-07:002014-02-02T10:44:22.058-08:00Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas<div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed. 11/2</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0640 24.26 x 112.14 72F/68% Anchor up at sunrise to begin the third and final leg down to Cabo.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wX_L_TpnSyk/Ts1KwT4vYPI/AAAAAAAAALc/hAIERpxSsgI/s1600/201111-02+01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wX_L_TpnSyk/Ts1KwT4vYPI/AAAAAAAAALc/hAIERpxSsgI/s400/201111-02+01.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGzc-6fr4aw/Ts1K0EuCn2I/AAAAAAAAALk/BAxD5s0KeUA/s1600/201111-02+02aC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGzc-6fr4aw/Ts1K0EuCn2I/AAAAAAAAALk/BAxD5s0KeUA/s400/201111-02+02aC.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VOa943NF1Vs/Ts1K4OMIlZI/AAAAAAAAALs/_3YTiPoF7zY/s1600/201111-02+02eC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VOa943NF1Vs/Ts1K4OMIlZI/AAAAAAAAALs/_3YTiPoF7zY/s400/201111-02+02eC.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JkyeLwq_zN4/Ts1K8JcTYMI/AAAAAAAAAL0/dk8HxmHLuQU/s1600/201111-02+04dC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JkyeLwq_zN4/Ts1K8JcTYMI/AAAAAAAAAL0/dk8HxmHLuQU/s400/201111-02+04dC.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lD-HLzlMk4E/Ts1K_4htkbI/AAAAAAAAAL8/o0mZmHGDs40/s1600/201111-02+04jC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lD-HLzlMk4E/Ts1K_4htkbI/AAAAAAAAAL8/o0mZmHGDs40/s400/201111-02+04jC.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jn5bTprV-lI/Ts1LG_UyesI/AAAAAAAAAME/D-dRhPMYE2E/s1600/201111-02+17.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jn5bTprV-lI/Ts1LG_UyesI/AAAAAAAAAME/D-dRhPMYE2E/s400/201111-02+17.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0815 2 4.39 x 112.13 76F/65% Moderate winds for much of the day. Jumping Manta Rays. Spinnaker up for ~5 hours.</span></div>
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1615 24.06 x 112.05 80F/56% Sails down, motoring.</span></div>
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Just before casting off in San Diego, as we perused the aisles of Trader Joe’s for last-minute provisions, Cap’n Casey's like, “Nah, we have enough & no more storage room.” True if we want to live on chips and noodles. Knowing better, I ignored him and bought like a drunken sailor. Even so, we’ve run out of a number of things.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PCdjyGDIxCo/Ts1MgfuhvwI/AAAAAAAAAMM/QrwcGTtju88/s1600/201111-03+02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PCdjyGDIxCo/Ts1MgfuhvwI/AAAAAAAAAMM/QrwcGTtju88/s400/201111-03+02.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">2300 John’s watch. 50+nm off shore. I heard a buzzing/flapping noise over my shoulder, maybe 3 or 4 times. Scanning what I could see of the dark deck I saw nothing and had been warned NOT to go on deck alone at night. Figured it was a line or bit of canvas flapping in the wind. The morning light showed it to be a flying fish that took a wrong turn.</span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Thu. 11/3</b></span></b></span></div>
<b> </b><br />
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I’ve got the insufferable 1100-0200 watch; black & uneventful.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0100 Steve woke up long enough for us to raise the sails.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0725 23.09 x 110.37 79F/76% </span></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VC_k8YnxoCQ/TswTuKkMAHI/AAAAAAAAAKE/q8zv8pPhfTg/s1600/201111-03+03.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VC_k8YnxoCQ/TswTuKkMAHI/AAAAAAAAAKE/q8zv8pPhfTg/s400/201111-03+03.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0800 Wind <10k, boat <5k. jib down, main centered. Flying fish, sea turtles.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1330 22.51 x 109.55 89F/59% The tip of Baja Mexico is in plain sight, just a few more miles.</span></b></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YnLkw-avt38/TswT1T0NSjI/AAAAAAAAAKM/aJjiIAh1AM4/s1600/201111-03+08.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YnLkw-avt38/TswT1T0NSjI/AAAAAAAAAKM/aJjiIAh1AM4/s400/201111-03+08.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-un798UmYRro/TswT72X67yI/AAAAAAAAAKU/xm2XXwvujbw/s1600/201111-03+15.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-un798UmYRro/TswT72X67yI/AAAAAAAAAKU/xm2XXwvujbw/s400/201111-03+15.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3ep9MqLOOQI/TswUC5Jk7OI/AAAAAAAAAKc/gkTTCb8r0uY/s1600/201111-03+21.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3ep9MqLOOQI/TswUC5Jk7OI/AAAAAAAAAKc/gkTTCb8r0uY/s400/201111-03+21.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1415 22.53 x 109.54 Anchor down in Cabo San Lucas, in the harbor.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Phew, what a great trip.</span></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0jvVNnQCifo/TswUQEOBBJI/AAAAAAAAAKs/F3F2l7Eib4A/s1600/201111-03+27.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0jvVNnQCifo/TswUQEOBBJI/AAAAAAAAAKs/F3F2l7Eib4A/s400/201111-03+27.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The water looked clean and clear so over the side I went, closely followed by Mike.</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L62esKh9zz8/TswUJraCyPI/AAAAAAAAAKk/MVzPaTmBOGQ/s1600/201111-03+25.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L62esKh9zz8/TswUJraCyPI/AAAAAAAAAKk/MVzPaTmBOGQ/s400/201111-03+25.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></b><br />
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Shore Leave.</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dfwceGeSdis/TswUXDnaTvI/AAAAAAAAAK0/jgqjSHUeO8Y/s1600/201111-03+30.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dfwceGeSdis/TswUXDnaTvI/AAAAAAAAAK0/jgqjSHUeO8Y/s640/201111-03+30.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></b><br />
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><<i>Need to
firm up travel plans asap; potentially sail Cabo to Puerto Vallarta
arriving the 8th or 9th, stay for a few days with Steve and friends then
fly to San Diego on about Sunday the 13th</i>.></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Fri. 11/4</b></span></b></span></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Layover
in Cabo. Boat lore: my son says you should never have a banana on a
fishing boat. (Huh?) Chip says any self-respecting boat carries a
bottle of rum. Not that I wanted any personally but as Chief Liquor
Steward I felt obligated to immediately buy several.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The
four of us dinghied to the dock and wandered deeper into Cabo past the
facade of over-priced restaurants and American fast food and fell upon <i>Los Tres Gallos</i>.</span></b><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xsxSqIn8H8o/TswXZeG96AI/AAAAAAAAALE/qhRWTBpbj1w/s1600/201111-04+08.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xsxSqIn8H8o/TswXZeG96AI/AAAAAAAAALE/qhRWTBpbj1w/s400/201111-04+08.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Mid_C0V07o/TswXTXx1hqI/AAAAAAAAAK8/bfeffv8HWxE/s1600/201111-04+12.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Mid_C0V07o/TswXTXx1hqI/AAAAAAAAAK8/bfeffv8HWxE/s400/201111-04+12.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VhhCGZjvN-o/TswXgAK7I4I/AAAAAAAAALM/1Lffx2ptWAI/s1600/201111-04+17.JPG" style="clear: left; display: inline ! important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VhhCGZjvN-o/TswXgAK7I4I/AAAAAAAAALM/1Lffx2ptWAI/s400/201111-04+17.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lma9okmZ6Mk/TswXkCnbINI/AAAAAAAAALU/GRAvvf6m49s/s1600/DSCF0609.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lma9okmZ6Mk/TswXkCnbINI/AAAAAAAAALU/GRAvvf6m49s/s400/DSCF0609.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></b><br />
<div style="background-color: white;">
<b><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Red
flag: no tables were occupied. But the place was charming and we were
tired, thirsty and anxious to find someplace authentic. Okay, let’s
start with beers, tortilla chips and test their salsas: all were
flavorful and the eager-to-please owner was proud they were made
in-house. One, though delicious, was hot as blazes and while we three
wept like schoolgirls Mike was unfazed. </span></b><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><Note to self: send him some of John Jr’s killer habaneros.><b>
High on endorphins, we had tequila shots all ‘round. We were happy with
our various entrées and topped it all off with a thimble-sized
coffee/orange/molasses concoction, on the house</b></span><b><span style="font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">.</span></b></div>
</div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sat. 11/5</b></span></b></span></div>
<div style="font: 13px Helvetica; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">In
Cabo we lost 2 of our crew; Chip & Mike flew home. It was a great
foursome, so thanks Mike and Chip, but the heavy sailing’s over so go
back to your land-lubbing lives. Now we need Gabrielle-The-Linguist
because they speak Mexican or something down here.</span></b></div>
<b><br />
</b></div>
Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-96599414146021272.post-48470350359125395622011-10-24T06:07:00.000-07:002015-02-15T04:11:59.035-08:00San Diego to Bahia Santa Maria<div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 10px;">
<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon. 10/24</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Cabrillo Isle Marina located on Harbor Island adjacent to the Sheraton. </span><br />
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0915 32.43 x 117.12 69F/68% Depart San Diego Harbor on the first leg of the Baha Ha-ha. What a beautiful sight: 132 boats, sails up, appearing out of the mist.</span></div>
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Our spinnaker was up for a couple hours.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M3LyOCTK3sQ/TsvmbyZ1IbI/AAAAAAAAAJs/quC8dHpThLA/s1600/201110-24+38.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M3LyOCTK3sQ/TsvmbyZ1IbI/AAAAAAAAAJs/quC8dHpThLA/s400/201110-24+38.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aj6Y-bciz6c/Tsvmh0-c7ZI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/psL2tdyM-tY/s1600/201110-24+40.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aj6Y-bciz6c/Tsvmh0-c7ZI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/psL2tdyM-tY/s640/201110-24+40.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Lots, LOTS of dolphins.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qrSfqV5AuFU/Tsvm3jF_AYI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/fiCtnEwDX4E/s1600/201110-24+31.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qrSfqV5AuFU/Tsvm3jF_AYI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/fiCtnEwDX4E/s400/201110-24+31.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/kSvFenMR54c?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
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</span></div>
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 10.0px 0.0px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">2300 31.23 x 117.02 John’s watch</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue. 10/25</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0600
30.49 x 116.50 Except for the first few hours, we’ve motored all the
way. Now with a steady tailwind of ~13k, up go the sails, wing on wing.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0900
30.41 x 116.36 69F/70% 23nm off shore. Spinnaker helped for a while
but with it down and the whisker pole on the jib our speed increased
from <3k to a blazing 5k.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1530 30.27 x 116.13 72F/65% Boring as it was, the wing on wing served us well but we need to get out farther to strike a rhumb </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">line to Turtle Bay. Dropped the whisker and took a starboard gybe to 60 degrees.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1800 30.12 x 116.11 71F/65% Fairly flying at 8k on 4-6’ swells, pushing into the Indian sunset.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Wed. 10/26</b></span></b></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0300 29.08 x 115.53 68F/72% The winds have held up all night; boat 7 - 8+kts.</span></b></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkDmUGH03zI/Ts1Y1CmX0EI/AAAAAAAAAMs/FxB2lVdC5aE/s1600/201110-26+24aC.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkDmUGH03zI/Ts1Y1CmX0EI/AAAAAAAAAMs/FxB2lVdC5aE/s320/201110-26+24aC.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K-ThV7sPI68/Ts1YySYwsgI/AAAAAAAAAMk/BQV0PICh4wQ/s1600/201110-26+00jC.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K-ThV7sPI68/Ts1YySYwsgI/AAAAAAAAAMk/BQV0PICh4wQ/s400/201110-26+00jC.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> With the monitor covered and only the tri-color navigation lights on the top of the mast, the starry sky is gorgeous.</span></b></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Fwlw_81xE0/Ts1Y46CsCPI/AAAAAAAAAM0/ADRz7CB5wcE/s1600/201110-26+24gC.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Fwlw_81xE0/Ts1Y46CsCPI/AAAAAAAAAM0/ADRz7CB5wcE/s400/201110-26+24gC.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Alone
and getting tossed about I now know why Chip said to wear a harness on
deck at night...and “one hand for the ship, one hand for you”.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0700 Whisker on the jib. Found a tiny squid on the floor in the head.</span></b></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kYZ5edE9cIw/Ts1YRi-1KNI/AAAAAAAAAMU/vgzB8bJgTQA/s1600/201110-26+00mC.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kYZ5edE9cIw/Ts1YRi-1KNI/AAAAAAAAAMU/vgzB8bJgTQA/s320/201110-26+00mC.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-joNothnQnTk/Ts1YVtWX5sI/AAAAAAAAAMc/eZsjQjtZASM/s1600/201110-26+03.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-joNothnQnTk/Ts1YVtWX5sI/AAAAAAAAAMc/eZsjQjtZASM/s400/201110-26+03.JPG" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> With all the waves and the rocking boat, guess she came in thru the bathroom window.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0900 28.30 x 115.45 69F/67%</span></b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">2200
27.41 x 114.52 We’re one of the early arrivals in Bahia Tortugas. From
SD it was 3 days and 2 nights...good speed...rarely under 4kts and once
as fast as 8.9 under sail; probably averaged 7. That's fast! So
clear, no light pollution, many stars, many dolphins. Turtle Bay was
very dark and after the Cherry Cove incident we were extra cautious.
Went to the west end where nobody else had anchored. About 30’ deep, we
put out 130’ of chain. Will have a long trip in the dinghy to reach
the village. 2-day layover.</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Thu. 10/27</b></span></b></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Layover in Turtle Bay.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Dinghied in & wandered the dusty town. Huevos rancheros, taco dorados 'n Modelo for breakfast.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Now
a couple days south of the border I recognize that familiar tropical
feel; I can’t put my finger on it, it’s not just the heat although you </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;">do</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> know you’re closer to the sun.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I’m
getting some sea legs but I still move around the deck like a scared
spider, low and slow, maximum points of contact. And that deck, despite
the light wood, is often too hot for bare feet. Scared spider on a
frying pan? While I’m bitching, after this much time moving about the
low overhead in the salon, berth and heads, I’ve developed Hunchover
Syndrome to protect my forehead, even when I’m on land.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Swim in the bay and early to bed.</span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Fri. 10/28</b></span></span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b> </b></span><br />
<div style="font: 13.0px Arial; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Layover in Turtle Bay.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Lazy
morning, getting ready for the noon beach party. Several folks caught
tuna & yellowtail along the way & will be grilling to share.
Frisbee, boogie boards, tug 'o war & a surprising array of
instruments: guitars, ukulele, saxophone and...bagpipes!?</span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sat. 10/29</b></span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0715 27.40 x 114.52 66F/67%</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Anchor
aweigh, motored out to open seas to raise the main & jib. Nearly
dead calm; speed 1-2k, gotta motor. Hope to arrive @ Bahia Santa Maria
late tomorrow night. 240nm on this, the 2nd leg. Doesn’t look like
it’ll be nearly as fun (read:<i>slow</i>) as the first...maybe we’ll get in a little poker.</span></b></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0930
Sails back up with a starboard gybe; got a respectable 6kts. Spinnaker
up - no help but pretty. NOTE: always hold both the topping lift and
down haul lines when engaging the whisker pole. It slid down the mast
in an instant and came slamming down on the life line which bent the
nearest stanchion. Fortunately that was the only damage and not a lost
limb or head. ALSO: connect whisker to sheet </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;">before</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> raising - that sheet can be hard to catch in the wind.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1400 27.10 x 114.45 77F/61% Steady as she goes. BLTAs by Steve for lunch.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1500 27.05 x 114.43 79F/57%</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1640 27.00 x 114.38 80F/54% The unloved-by-Chip wing on wing ~5k boat speed.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Way too rocky to sleep.</span></b><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b> </b></span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Sun. 10/30</b></span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0500
26.13 x 113.47 70F/79% Clear and starry sky, shooting stars. 30nm off
land and no vessels in sight = zero light pollution. Deep red sunrise.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0740 26.07 x 113.41 71F/78% Winds 5-9k; boat ~3k, so sails down.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1100 motor off, jib & main up, boat 4-5k.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1340 25.31 x 113.15 jib down, spinnaker up - some small improvement to 5.5k. 2nd leg @164nm/31.5 hrs.</span></b></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1700 25.14 x 113.04 77F/66% spinnaker down, jib up just as the sun set.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Mon. 10/31</b></span></b></span></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">0640 24.46 x 112.14 75F/74% Pulled into Bahia Santa Maria just after sunrise.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">From
Turtle Bay it took 2 days & nights. Not as much wind as we
(especially Chip) would have liked; he got spoiled on the windy 1st leg.</span></b></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Bright sun, 80F air, 85F water. I jumped in right away.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">We'll layover for 2 nights here then start the final leg to Cabo.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I'd had the last watch (5-8 am) and from 35 miles offshore witnessed this HD sunrise: </span></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DF9PgguAq8Y/TsFZI9ygglI/AAAAAAAAAHM/QhWwOKZaiWQ/s1600/201110-30+09.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DF9PgguAq8Y/TsFZI9ygglI/AAAAAAAAAHM/QhWwOKZaiWQ/s640/201110-30+09.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br />
</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Tue. 11/1</b></span></b></span></div>
<b> </b><br />
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Bahia
Santa Maria layover. Lazy morning, around noon we dinghied the mile or
so in to the party on the bluff (except Steve; he swam - and swam
back).</span></b><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><</span></b><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">steve</span></i><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">> "Though
warm, water visibility in this bay is only about 10-15 feet. The dark
sand just doesn't give the apparent clarity like the whiter sand. I
took a hike from the beach up to the main north-south highway--which was
about a mile. Very dry, harsh landscape like all of the Baha that we
have viewed. I observed a pick-up slow down and stop along the road
(for one of the people to relieve themselves) a dog jumped out of the
back and ran off the road. Then the 2 chjldren in the truck ran after
the dog calling it, and then mom and dad followed off the road with the
truck. I continued to watch for about 10 minutes and they had still not
caught the damn dog! I then jogged back to the beach, where the Baha
fleet was having a party."</span></b></span></b></span><br />
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span></b> </span></b></div>
<div style="font: 13px Arial; margin: 0px;">
<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> A great party band; 60s and 70s American hits peppered with some percussive Latin songs.</span></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jKPWlQS_zbM/USDFiSumoAI/AAAAAAAAB5s/woYWQOUIWtI/s1600/201111-01+41+Bahia+Santa+Maria.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jKPWlQS_zbM/USDFiSumoAI/AAAAAAAAB5s/woYWQOUIWtI/s640/201111-01+41+Bahia+Santa+Maria.JPG" height="454" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bahia Santa Maria</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> Except
for a fellow collecting returnable Pacifico bottles at the party
recycling is non-existent. Even at the marinas I haven’t seen a single recycling bin;
plastic, metal, glass, everything goes into the garbage.</span></b><br />
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Johnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13246050974351530462noreply@blogger.com1